louder

Ok cool I will. I have some time off this week so should get some more done. I would however like to get my set up guide finished so I will see how far I get

Awesome! So glad to hear it's on the way!

Thank you all very much!

If you do get brick packs with removable wires just remember don't store the batteries with the wires in as they can build up static and sometimes the gold coating can get reverse electroplated due to negative static build up and cheap plating. Also if the wires aren't plugged in and one was to make contact with with a plug and another wire they can short. Seen it happen at a track in a bag of 5 or 6 batteries. Whole bag went up, pretty nasty.

Really? I will have to check that up, it would be something great to add too it! More searching to do. Seems it also became a popular chassis for early RWD drifting attempts. I even saw it converted to a FF rally car on some Japanese forum, at least that is what it looked like.

I am looking for a NY Taxi Cab Yellow. I have narrowed my search to TS-16 and TS-47. TS-16 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-ts-16-yellow-acrylic-spray/rc-car-products/1903 TS-47 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-ts-47-chrome-yellow-acrylic-spray/rc-car-products/38676 I just quite work out which is more taxi cab yellow after looking at pictures on Google images I am starting to get confused haha. Your help is much appreciated!

Thanks guys. I will take get in touch.

Hey, just a quick question, what shocks are you all running on your chassis? I am playing around with some new ones I have order (4 different pairs from 4 different companies) trying to find something right. I am finding balancing my cars suspension and getting it perfect is an endless task so I am taking a different approach. I am looking at aeration to get a non-Newtonian fluid effect so under hard impact the shocks stay stiff but when moving slow can still slow smoothly. The bubbles of air in the sock will create areas of high surface tension increasing resistance when impacted by the shock at speed but still allow for slow movement. Trying to work out basic settings for my set up guide and got distracted.

WOW. awesome, are they decals or little plastic plates?

Radshape RC offer great body shells. I am quite a fan of the pandora shells 2 of which arrived yesterday and look stunning.

They don't offer the piggybacks as a 55/54mm set sadly, although I had looked at them however, I reckon with an aerated mixture in them with a really hard rebound I can set up a great multistage shock system. Hard impact stiffening from the oil+air mixture then soft piston movement for small bumps but using the rebound in the piggy back I could get snappy back to centre weight transfer for quick weight transfers. It's just finding the piggy back tops without the shock. Just to clarify I understand that I won't get a solid thickening effect on hard impacts but the bubbles of air will create areas of high surface tension increasing resistance when impacted by the shock at speed.

Ok awesome, what are the shafts like? Hold up well or worth replacing with Ti-Nitrate ones? Is the seal on them ok, I have seen some mixed feedback about them. Does the aeration cap actually work? Do you get the non-Newtonian effect and does it make them easier to fill and set up? The problem I find I have with diaphragm shocks with drifting is you don't get that hard impact stiffness like you would from a mixed fluid. To combat it you can use a thicker oil or harder spring but with oil I find I am getting just too slow movement and the chassis can be difficult to respond, especially when trying to transfer weight under breaking because the thick oil holds the back down too much and with a hard spring it just bounces around like having no suspension and I then get no control.

Hey all, Just wondered if hany had used the XD aeration shocks and if they are any good. I like the idea of easily building a shock then letting the air out using the little bleeder screw, seems sensible. They do them for touring cars and wondered how people rated them?

After looking at an SCX10 this does look very interesting.

As far as gearing etc you are looking for a FDR around 6-7. There is a calculator on drift mission for belt FDR and counter steer under the tools section. I would always say start with HPI T drifts and go from there. They are a good middle of the road tyre and you can work out what you need from them. They provide a great frame of reference as everyone knows them! Toe you want about 3 in the rear and then adjust the front to suit, camber, you want more negative in the rear than the front. More camber will allow the back to swing out more. I will have to set up guide done ASAP!

Lovely man, can't wait to see this build thread!

Haha! So many Tamiya's! I will get on it ASAP!

Well I somewhat understand double sided tape for fenders but for bonnets as well? Surely it would then sit quite high? I have seen quite a few Jap drifters with removable bumpers etc using magnets and I just wondered if anyone knows how this is set up? Thanks for the heads up on the HPI bodies though

A very badly made rear spoiler that has a 'carbon fibre effect' (looks pants) and some new wheels with not enough offset

So, today I ordered a few bits and bobs for my D3 project car. While I wait for them to arrive and curse over my wheels which I think haven't got enough offset I want to ask people a few questions about bodies. I have an airbrush and am familiar with painting miniatures and have rattle canned a few bodies but I actually want to try with my new one so here are a few probably basic questions? I am wondering as to how people attach body details to their cars? I have seen some nice over fender flairs and what not but obviously they need to be attached! I even have seen whole new hoods for cars, I have very little experience in this department. I have no idea how you would go about attaching them to the car? Secondly How do people rate HPI bodies? I am keeping an eye out for an Evo X body and seeing as I can't seem to find a killer body rc supplier it leaves me with 2 options, either HPI or Tamiya. Seeing as I normally just buy cheap import bodies I have no idea who to go with! Thanks very much.

I have been watching the RCSpaks/DJMedic videos on YouTube and I have to say I am very impressed with the capabilities of the SCX10. I was watching the Tough Truck Challenge stuff and its amazing to see what those little trucks can do. I am pretty much sold on it. It's now just a matter of which kit to get. I 100% know I don't want an RTR. As much as I like getting a car I can drive straight away I am pretty much done with them. I get more joy out of tinkering and building in a lot of cases than I do running them (particularly with my drift cars). I am actually thinking about looking for a rolling chassis, preferably one in a bit of mess that I can completely rip to bits and build up as a modified kit with some of the nice scale axels, linkages etc, building up a custom truck from day one, but saving me the pain of having loads of extra bits left over and hopefully it would be cheaper than buying the bits individually to build a custom kit.

I would love to see Tamiya do a re release and a new release of the same model. Take like a classic and re release it but then offer an updated version with modern shocks etc and a modern interpretation of the looks. I think it would be pretty cool.

Unlucky man I guess that is one of the many problems on eBay. If the guy doesn't send it AsiaTees have the kit for

Yeah that would be awesome if you could. I am going to do a basic set up guide, just covering things like toe, camber, suspension etc. The idea is I will give you the facts that you can apply to your set up. I think there is a lot to be said for having a little bit of knowledge and having a play and learning from that, than having a pre set up car. Most guys who are getting high end chassis or kits already have some knowledge anyway and RTRs mostly come pre set up but it should give newbies a good starting point and be a reference for people who already have some idea what they are doing

Sick. It works really well, especially with the golden stickers. I am extremely jealous. I am currently using RTR bodies I got off eBay as I haven't had the time to paint anything new. It has a real understated muscle look to it. Clean body but those wheels hinting at something special underneath haha.