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GroundHog

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Everything posted by GroundHog

  1. I have an original Hyper 7 TQ .21 which hasn't been started for 10+ years. I've kept it lubricated with after run oil and everything seems to be loose still and the piston still moves, along with the driveshaft. I cleaned out the fuel tank a couple of years ago, and that all looks to be ok. Upon basic inspection the other bits and pieces "look" ok, but what else should I be checking before trying to give this thing a go? I need some new fuel piping, as these are bit old, and I was going to replace the air filter. Is there anything else that should be replaced? Obviously it also has a new glow plug. Also, will this air filter work with my car? Thanks.
  2. Ok great - I'll take a look at the weekend and see what can be done. Thanks a lot.
  3. Ok thanks. I couldn't see any obvious ways to take it to pieces, but I'll take another look. Cheers.
  4. Hi all, It's been a while since I posted on here, but after about 10 years away from RC, I've now got my sons interested in RC (basic Tamiya models) and the lockdown has reawakened my interest in getting my old cars up and running again. I had my M18MT running the other day with its Mamba brushless motor and all was working fine for a couple of runs. I then left it overnight and tried to run it the following day and it seems to have seized up, with it taking a lot to try to turn it over. I have tried reseating the pinion gear in case it was this, but it looks like the motor shaft itself is the problem, and it won't turn over even when I just push the car gently. Is there anything I can do to fix this, or is it knackered? Cheers.
  5. So I've been out of it for a couple years whilst we've had a family, but now I'm feeling the pull back to my RC cars. I've got a Hyper 7 in a sealed plastic box in the garage that's not been run for at least two years and I'm wondering what precautions I should do before getting it running again? The flywheel turns well without any problems, so I'm glad I used that after run oil before putting the car to sleep! The fuel tank looks pretty manky though, so should I get a new tank to be on the safe side? Also thought I should get a new glow plug and new fuel tubing, as well as the fuel obviously. It seems tornado is no longer the fuel of choice, so I guess I'll look at something else. Anything else I should get? It has a rotostart so hopefully that will help it get going more easily than the pull start. Thanks.
  6. GroundHog

    Kits

    Mine was my Xray - more fiddly than the TL01B that I've built but more rewarding because of it, and much nicer to work with than the Tamiya. Would love to get another kit as I almost prefer the building to the running of the cars gh.
  7. Whatever you get, I'd also recommend going for a kit. My first car was a kit and it gives you so much more confidence with fixing it when it goes wrong (which it will... rc cars and hard stationary objects will eventually come together ), and also upgrading it later on. I had a Tamiya for my first car, and although its pants compared with some of the other cars you can get, the kits are easy to put together and parts are really cheap, so its an ideal starter car. gh.
  8. Check your servo's are aligned on the steering. Mine was off-centre when the tx was centred. Just needed to be realigned gh.
  9. Think you'll struggle with that one as its just not powerful enough for RC needs. You might be able to solder a couple of wires together, but if you are looking to connect deans or make battery packs then you have no hope. Look for 60W or higher. gh.
  10. And they're both kits? I guess xray parts for the NT18T are just as expensive as they are for the M18MT? gh.
  11. Are there any micro/mini nitro kits available? I am looking to get a new kit, but don't know what to get and fancy another micro (already got the leccy M18MT but I believe the nitro version is RTR). If not then any suggestions on any other nitro kits? I've seen the Savage but wondered what else would be a good buy? I'm gonna sell my Hyper-7 and get a kit instead. Cheers, gh.
  12. Only other thing to upgrade would be to put on white springs all round, as the stock ones are a bit soft. White firms up the suspension a bit, making it less likely to ground out, and easier to handle. gh.
  13. Sounds a bit like the cogging you get when running brushless motors with crappy batteries. Often a better battery will fix it, but seems strange that this should be happening straight out the box. gh.
  14. Thanks for the advice guys. I would be tempted with a boat, due to the sheer amount of detail on them, but don't really have anywhere I could use them round me so can't see me ever running it Those crawlers look pretty good though, for something completely different from what I already have. Time to work out what I need to sell to get the money for my next car gh.
  15. Ooo thanks for the hint Garry - I'll have a look at those.
  16. Long time no post and all that! As the topic says, I'm looking for a kit that will take longer to build than the usual 4-8 hours. I haven't really used my cars recently, and I think its because I like the building of the kits which I just haven't had recently. I don't want an impossible build, but one thats going to require a bit more nonce than the usual stuff. I haven't got the talent to build something from scratch just based on plans so it still needs to be a proper kit. Budget is up to about
  17. Thanks mate, I've found a similar servo on ebay so will look in to that. gh.
  18. Had a bit of an issue with my throttle servo getting stuck with the throttle open - I've added some WD40 and it seems to have improved it, but I wonder if the servo should be replaced for a better one? I was planning on replacing the steering servo anyway as its still on the stock one, but wondered if I need to get two of the steering (ie expensive) servo's or if I can get away with a slightly less powerful one for the throttle? Any suggestions? Also, if I upgrade the servo's will I need to get an RX hump pack rather than the 4 x AA's I'm currently using? Cheers, gh.
  19. I had the same problem with my Hyper when I first had it. I heated it up for about 10mins and ran it, then let it cool with the glowplug in and after the first couple of tankfuls of doing this it loosened up nicely. gh.
  20. Just thought I'd let you know that I got the no-solder leads without problems, fitted them on Saturday and they are great. The new motor is superb, but I think I'm gonna need a ball-diff rather soon as my stock diff is making a bit of a racket. gh.
  21. Well I called Lesro and they do have them in stock, so ordered a pair. If they end up being crap then I'll have a go at soldering, but for now, hopefully this will do. gh.
  22. Looks like it is everything on that particular page that is broken. Doesn't fill me with confidence really so I think its best avoided. gh.
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