daveyboi73

The titan motor has less winds than the stock motor,hence less initial torque.You need to keep the gearing as low as possible.For the titan motor you will need a 2.3mm pinion.use the 14 tooth and add a heatsink to it cos if the titan get too hot the brushes will fail anyway. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52503T-380-Motor-RC-Heatsink-Cooling-Head-Vent-Titanium-/330605844730?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4cf9a4d8fa The stock battery isnt very good,and its better to run a lipo with an alarm if using stock setup instead. http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=26676 http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__22749__On_Board_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_3s.html I ran this combo before a brushless upgrade and runtime of about 50 mins give or take. hope this hepls

I have one.There are alot of changes,for one its smaller,has full time 4wd and is stupidly strong .I run a 3600 4pole on 3s in mine and not one breakage yet.You can fit the slipper plates from a losi mini 8 to strenghten the drive train.I use 1/10th touring car slicks on road,and tamyia rally blocks of road,as my only gripe is stock tyres are pants.

Ok thanks .I just wasnt sure if you could drill a micro pinion.

Hi i bought a brushless esc and 3800kv motor from hobby king to upgrade my 1/18th sc,only to find the motor shaft is an odd size.Its 3mm,so standard micro size pinions are to small and normal(3.175mm) is to large.Any ideas? The pitch is 48dp.

Yes there is :- http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/71020/ I use one of these and 32dp hard steel pinions.With the slipper set right these really are fit and forget.Ive run a 4000kv 4 pole on 3s for 2 years now and have only had to tighten the slipper slightly once in all that time

Buy a few micros and make a mini off road track?

My st220 failed the mot last time because the mot reminder sticker the same dealer stuck in last year was within the drivers swept area . Didnt have to pay the retest fee though lol.

the stock drive train will break under 3s power,and due to the stock ratios any motor over 4000 kv will burn out ,even under 2s.You could be better off looking on ebay for a rolling chassis from traxxas,hpi,losi etc which can handle 3s power and swap your electrics into that,as they will run 3s fine..The hsp chassis are tunable,but you will need to spend at least

a few places matey. http://www.rchobbyestore.co.uk/rc-spares-c1/spare-car-parts-c2#c42 http://www.blacksmithproducts.co.uk/categories.asp?cat=98 Ive got parts from both these sellers,Uk based too

Both motors are better off in a 2wd slash.The 4600 on 3s will fry in a 4x4 slash and at best run hot,even with low ratios on 2s.The 3800 will run fine on 2s with 54/14 gearing but will also run hot on 3s even with a fan fitted.I found the best motor for the 4x4 on 3s was an orion 2400kv 4pole,and with 54/17 gearing it hit well over 50 mph on 3s and ran cool.But as with everything and as the other members have said at these speeds the car is a real handful,and only by suspension changes,adding swaybars,lcg chassis,tyres combos etc will it be even half controllable. The car will back flip at around 35-40mph due to the parachute effect caused by the body also, so wheelie bar etc is required.The way round this i found was a proline flotek shell,more expense though .

You either have a stripped idler or shaft gear and probably a damaged diff ring gear.The pin on the topshaft can also snap.Just pop it apart and check fella. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-steel-top-drive-gear-22t-/rc-car-products/18509 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-steel-idle-gear-vxl-cars/rc-car-products/31221 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-input-shaft-slipper-shaft/rc-car-products/29649 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-planetary-gear-differential-with-steel-ring-gear/rc-car-products/31675 Bout

I run the hobbywing sc8 system similar to this in mine :- http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-ezrun-combo-sc-c2-4000kv-sc8-waterproof/rc-car-products/376989 Nice on 2s and Jolly good fun on 3s .

be 10 mins matey

Ahh i see.Thankyou :thumbsup:

all moved and settled in,just about to get cars out . Will be up at applegarth park in bout an hour.It would be good if we could find other members in this area to go bashing.I have a few mates from thirsk who are interested .

Hi guys. Im having a little trouble gorilla taping some sc trenchers. Ive tried taping them as normal,where ive had no probs,but now theses sc tyres taped,they wont sit on the beads properly . Do i use thinner tape and just tape the actual width of the tread and not the sidewalls?.Sorry bit of a noob with this wheel and tyre setup .

wheres ma wallet :shockingscary:

hi fella. Ive tried both chassis types and tbh a waste of money really.The full alloy one bent under a heavy front impact and the carbon one snapped where the alloy front brace attaches. I wouldnt waste your money tbh.The stock chassis with the carbon upper brace is adequate.You can make a reinforcing plate from this :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Real-Carbon-Fibre-Fiber-Flat-Sheet-in-2mm-A4-Rigid-Panel-Not-Vinyl-Wrap-/251373325125?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a87048b45 Just lay your chassis plate on top then drill using a 3mm bit through the end holes on the chassis,then put m3 bolts through it and secure.Then just cut around it and drill through any holes with a 3mm drill bit.Flip over and counter sink required holes.You can sort the front kick up by scoring the line across where the front of the chassis kicks up,then carefully cut 1/2 way through the sheet to allow it to bend up.You then reassemble the chassis,with this carbon plate on the bottom,it will ensure no more snapped chassis plates Ive just sold mine so have no pics ,sorry. The banzai chassis wont fit a carnage,its to short Fitting alloy arms isnt also advisable.I broke one and bent the other, and ripped the side off the gearbox as the alloy has no give or flex.You are best of using alloy pin mounts,rear bearing carriers,front knuckles and steering arms for strength,but use stock plastic arms as these will flex or in worse case snap,reducing the risk of damaged chassis and gearbox etc. hope this makes sense .

Pmed you fella.

Moving to northallerton monday matey.Have a rustler and a few others.Are there any good bash spots?.ive heard applegarth park is quite good?

I remember bolting a tamiya falcon front and rear end to one of this chassis,was the coolest kid in the street :yes: .Thats retro

yep,have had a tornment and the newer ruckus version.Dont get me wrong,the ecx are great value,,i said about the other models as the ecx range would probably be a bit of a disappointment after running nitro. There are many ways to improve ecx vehicles,but after paying out all that cash (

in a word,NO!!.They are painfully slow and are very badly assembled to.You would have to spend an aditional

Hi. Ive just bought a robinson racing spur for my slash.Its says 0.8 mod teeth.Do i have to buy this size or are the 32DP pinions i have compatable.Also,what ratio would be similar to my current stock one,which is a 19 pinion and 86 spur? .Im running a 4600kv castle motor and i use 3s lipos.The new spur has 56 teeth so would a 13 tooth pinion be best???