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HPI Bullet Owners Club


.AJ.

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I would say the main reason I haven't stripped one yet is due to breaking axle pins first.  Those skinny 1.7mm drive pins will snap like twigs long before a properly tightened 12mm hex with good wheels.  The only reason I haven't used thicker pins is because I that they do break.  It's like cheap insurance and way easier to replace than diff parts and driveshafts, :]   Like when I had the slipper clutch still, it would break rear driveshafts like crazy.  I modded a 7x83mm (nitro mt2, I think) to fit.  Broke that too. Finally I had to mod a Savage 8x83mm driveshaft to fit and put the wr8 center diff in...finally that fixed my drivetrain problems.

 

I don't know if I'd even try a 3674 motor, and that's a high kv, it must be insane!  I've thought about going bigger than my 3660 but it works perfect for me.  It "fits" the truck, know what I mean?  I finally got the truck to where it's drivetrain is durable and I don't want to mess with it.

 

I'm geared 15/46 for the past few months but I might go back down to a 13t soon.

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cool lol.

 

 

surely that bearing will just pop off?

i was thinking of putting a bit of solder at the end so it cant come out but im not sure how strong that would be...

No good when I test it.

It was blocking the wheel every 10 seconds and had to take it out. But it worth the try.

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hi all i might be getting the bullet st flux soon and im replacing the stock electronics and putting in the Traxxas VXL system from my slash 4x4. What else do you recommend to replace sooner rather than later as ive got to work out the cost. I would also like to know if the VXL system will be a good power system for this truck? 

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hi all i might be getting the bullet st flux soon and im replacing the stock electronics and putting in the Traxxas VXL system from my slash 4x4. What else do you recommend to replace sooner rather than later as ive got to work out the cost. I would also like to know if the VXL system will be a good power system for this truck? 

The steering servo should be next.  It fails easily and doesn't turn the wheels well at all at any speed.  The c-hubs and steering knuckles are pretty weak too but they can still last quite awhile unless you hit things hard.  Aluminum upgrades are available for both.  Shimming the diffs properly will help them to last (mine are still fine after a year).  You might want to gear the vxl, 3500kv motor up a bit. The stock pinion is 10, go to at least a 12 or 13 and see how your temps are and go from there.  I think the vxl would be fine in the Bullet as long as you can find that sweet spot with your pinion gear.  Hope this helps!

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Shiny! :thumbsup:   Your paint job looks awesome too.  

 

My Bullet is shelved right now because it has too much play in the front end.  I don't want to damage any other parts until I get more alloy bits to take up the slop.  It's actually dangerous to drive right now, lol. 

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Had my bullet for about 3 months. I have it torn down currently for WR8 center conversion. Also adding adjustable battery tray from Vorza and separate WP receiver enclosure. I ordered the 5173 e-maxx wheels because I wanted more aggressive tread and I warped one of my stock rims. I received them tonight but don't have my truck back together yet. Does anyone know if they will work with the offset? Don't want to wait till get it back together to see that it doesn't and then have to order some more. Any help is appreciated

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Had my bullet for about 3 months. I have it torn down currently for WR8 center conversion. Also adding adjustable battery tray from Vorza and separate WP receiver enclosure. I ordered the 5173 e-maxx wheels because I wanted more aggressive tread and I warped one of my stock rims. I received them tonight but don't have my truck back together yet. Does anyone know if they will work with the offset? Don't want to wait till get it back together to see that it doesn't and then have to order some more. Any help is appreciated

provided they are 14mm they will fit but they will be huge compared to the rest of the truck and cause all sorts of issues

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Thanks. I ordered wheel hex extenders so guess wheels will be reserved for the pretty shelf sitting times! What is the preffered wheel tire replacement? I would like same size or bigger. No running in snow or mud. Just parks and bmx tracks. Thanks for response. I have full alloy suspension set but can't seem to find body mount/post. I break teeth off the 40t bevel gear constantly. Would the machined diff cups and alloy gearbox case hell that or no?

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Thanks. I ordered wheel hex extenders so guess wheels will be reserved for the pretty shelf sitting times! What is the preffered wheel tire replacement? I would like same size or bigger. No running in snow or mud. Just parks and bmx tracks. Thanks for response. I have full alloy suspension set but can't seem to find body mount/post. I break teeth off the 40t bevel gear constantly. Would the machined diff cups and alloy gearbox case hell that or no?

The perfect wheel replacement for Bullet is something lighter.  The heavy weight of the wheels/tyres on the Bullet is what helps break your 40t bevel gear so much.  I switched to 2.2" wheels (with Front offset for Traxxas Rustler/Stampede) and I mounted 2.2" Badlands on them. I had to use wr8 12mm hexes also.  I estimate they are half the weight of stock tires and my diffs have lasted for over a year now.  Have you shimmed your diffs?  If not, doing that will also prolong your diff life, big time!  I can't comment on alloy diff cups/gearbox since I've never used them.  I have a few pics in my gallery of my current Bullet setup, take a look and if you'd like to try switching to 2.2" wheels/tyres I can get you all of the part #'s for what works.  If you decide to stick with bigger mt style tyres, shimming will be key.  Hope this helps!

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Thanks. It is completly torn apart and I have all my parts in for the WR8 center diff and motor mount. I don't know what you mean by shim differential? Now I'm thinking I may order WR8 chassis and turn my bullet into a truggy. I do like the wheels and tires on yours. I have savage xs also so smaller wheels would help

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Differential shimming is when you take 12x15x.2mm shims and install them over the outdrives, up against the bearing, on the bevel gear side of the diff.   It makes the gears mesh more tightly and allows more tooth contact so that the force is spread over the entire tooth as opposed to just the edge or half.  Proper shimming will drastically strengthen your diffs.  Shimming your diff is not an exact science.  It is something you'll have to feel.  You don't want the gear mesh too tight or too loose.  When you've added just the right amount of shims, the gear mesh will feel a little "crunchy"....in other words you'll feel each individual tooth engaging but not binding in any way.  I think most Bullets come with 1 shim on the bevel gear side. You should add probably 1 or 2 more and then put the diff back in the case and spin the input shaft by hand.  Add or subtract shims based on what you feel. I took this pic awhile back when I had my truck apart.  It shows 3, .2mm shims that I use currently in my rear diff.  The shims I use are Ofna #38254 but any 12x15x0.2mm shim will suffice.  If you check youtube there should be videos that break down exactly what to do.  If not, I can try to detail the process a little better.  It is worth it.

 

DSC00092_zpsf287d4fd.jpg

Edited by tman4wdr
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I got some work done on the bullet today. New WR8 center and mount. Rebuilt the front and rear diffs and attempted to shim the diffs. I removed the diff from case and took out gear and pin from input shaft. Added three small shims around shaft to reduce the play in and out. Figured this would push the small gear up in order to make more contact with the bevel gear. Now I see where I was suppose to shim the diff over to the side?? Is it not the same?

Also put on some smaller Stampede wheels and am playing with the body height. I am liking the low body look. Let me know what you think

How do you put picture onto post here? Have added couple into a gallery

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The wr8 center diff has 46t spur and bullet had 54t spur. How will that affect my truck? I want to leave spur as is and adjust the pinion for performance. I never liked the spur gear going through bottom of chassis

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You'll have much more top speed with the wr8 spur.  8 teeth is a big jump for mod1 gears.  Watch your temps and gear accordingly.  For most people 10t (stock) should be ok, if not go to 8.

 

I suppose shims behind the small bevel gear could work the same as the way I do it.  The end result should feel slightly "crunchy"...you can feel the individual teeth engage while you spin the input shaft (with diff out of the truck and placed in the gear case, this will give you the best feel of the mesh) but never binding in any way.  You could even try shimming both, up to you. 

 

I use Photobucket to get my pics up here.  You just sign up for an account, then upload pics there, then copy the link and add it to your post.  It will appear when you post your message.  Hope that helps.

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Thanks man, great help!!

 

No prob, always happy to help a fellow bullet basher if I can!  The wr8 center diff is an awesome mod for the bullet...really saves the drivetrain and makes the bullet handle better. Anyaway, throw up some pics of your rig when you get everything sorted,  Good luck!

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All done, for now anyways. Can't get pics up on post but updated gallery.

Full alloy suspension

TBR front and rear bumpers with wheelie bar

Modded battery tray to hold 5000mah 3s

Cvd's all around

2.8" traxxas stampede wheels and tires

Hpi sf-50wp servo

WR8 center diff conversion with motor mount

Rebuilt and shimmed diffs both ways

Let me know what think

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And so far only down side to WR8 conversion is fact that it uses steel spur gear so it's much pounder than used to be. Got a 8t and 12t pinion ordered also to play with my final gearing as the WR8 conv changed my spur from 54t to a 46t

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