tman4wdr

I think to use the Bullet 54t spur on the wr8 center diff would be very tricky, nearly impossible for a few reasons. If the drilled holes were off even the slightest bit, it would be a wobbly gear impossible to mesh. Plus there's a channel that the gasket rides in. And the wr8 spur has a small hole to support the diff output. Maybe a machine shop could do it, I know I can't. I believe Integy offers steel spur gears of varying tooth counts for the wr8 that would be a direct fit. The stock bullet motor mount with a wr8 center diff is limited in gearing options because the slots in the motor mount do not allow the motor to get close enough to the smaller 46t spur. I think the smallest pinion that can be used this way is a 11-12t (correct me if wrong, it's been awhile since I did it). The slots on the motor mount could be elongated if a drill/dremel is available which would allow smaller pinions to be used. But.... use the wr8 center diff and wr8 motor mount, you can gear it with smaller than 12t pinions due to it's cam-style design. This was what I used and recommend if switching to the wr8 center diff. It makes mesh adjustment super easy and allows a much wider range of pinion gears.

@Paul Mc Toal Hi, the wr8 center diff will greatly improve the drivability of the Bullet. It also provides another tuning option because the fluid can be changed to thicker or thinner. Thicker for wheelies, thinner for better cornering/turning/handling. It also has a side effect of being easier on the drivetrain. I was very happy with the wr8 center diff and I highly recommend it, bolts right in too. Only small problem of the wr8 has a 46t spur vs the bullet 54t, might have to use lower pinion and/or wr8 motor mount. Edit: Wouldn't let me quote Paul for some reason.

cvd's won't pop out on this bad boy but I bet you're right that the stock dogbones would have, especially with the generous travel of Emaxx shocks. My 35t brushed motor is Really Too Slow (thinking 8-9mph)... I'm going to use a 17.5t/~2000kv sensored 540 combo. It should scoot pretty good even on 2s and have the low speed torque I need. I did a little build thread for this on URC forums ("stadium trucks and 1/10 buggies" section) "HPI Bullet, My slow-poke conversion" if anyone wants to see a slow ass Bullet,lol. Running video should be up by Monday, if I can convince the camera woman Anyone know, can you embed youtube videos here on MSUK?

Hey guys. I just changed my Bullet from a 3s truggy... To a low power, 35t brushed, monster trail vehicle! Top speed: 10 mph! Now my 3 yr old son can drive this and not shatter it into pieces. Plus it can climb rocks and logs with ease. My Bullet has been great in all of it's forms and I've had very few problems.

I ordered twice from Asiatees, first order took 5 days to US, second order was ~1.5 weeks.

Me too, dove (back) in after a 15 year break. Brushless/lipo drew me back about a year and half ago and I've been addicted ever since. Brought my wife and 3 1/2 yr old with me too. It's a blast when you get to do it with your son. Like being a kid again! I built my boy a Son Uva Digger and he runs that into everything,lol. There's a great Bullet thread over on URC forums in the "Stadium trucks and 1/10 buggies" section. I've read a few guys building up Apache C1's with D8T suspension running 5,6s. I think they call them a C1 Smash....awesome looking rigs there...like the ultimate basher. Anyway, I have the same name over at URC if you ever stop by. Best luck with your Bullet, and I'd like to hear how it finishes up.

Hmmm, yeah man, I see what you mean. No need to have expensive brushless systems just laying around. Nice rc collection btw! I think that the flux reload/shot would do ok in savage xs...it would be a downgrade from vapor/vector, but on 2s it would still rock pretty good and 3s would be off the chart. The xs is a little lighter than Bullet? If so, it would certainly be under less strain. The vapor esc in the Bullet would do fine with 2s but 3s is pushing it...just like the reload. I mean, this all depends on driving style, terrain, etc. When I did my Bullet esc/motor upgrade I went for a combo that would handle 3s exclusively. I went with Hobbywing wpsc8 and Gforce 36x60mm/3200kv. They're both fine with 3s even with 15/46 gears,lol. To get more power and more reliability especially for 3s, I would first go to a true 540 motor, +- 4000kv that can handle 3s. It will dissipate heat better and be under less strain and also you should be able to stay with 10-12 + pinion even with 46 spur. The reload esc should be ok with that (<140F)...if not it should be swapped out for an 80 amp + esc. If you end up with reload/shot collecting dust, it's a wicked combo in a 1/10 stadium truck or buggy. I had it in my Bandit and bl Evader, it was awesome in both of those lighter rc's.

Yeah man, 8t pinion would help for sure. Fan/heatsink for motor....or a true 540/550 motor. Bigger motors help dissipate heat better and power the Bullet with less strain. Couple guys use this.... http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/brushless-motors/inrunner-car/4-pole-inrunner/gforce-3650sl-inrunner-kv4300.html On 3s only, I use this 550/3200kv motor... http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/brushless-motors/inrunner-car/4-pole-inrunner/gforce-3660-4-pole-inrunner-kv3200.html For 2s the 4000kv 36x60 would be much better I don't know if you're looking to change out your motor, it's just that the Flux Shot motor can be strained with tall gearing in the heavy Bullet. Those are good budget options above...and the 550's have a 5mm output shaft which opens up many possibilities for mod1 pinions. But to run the 550 should require a more powerful esc, 540 would still be fine. I have used my Flux shot motor in 2wd Evader and Bandit, it's awesome in those light vehicles!

These are the ones I bought, they are from a chop-shop that disassembles rc's and sells all the parts separately. This one is in the US, Dollarhobbyz. http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/traxxas/e-maxx/traxxas-1-10-e-maxx-shocks.html If you're in the UK, there may be one like Dollarhobbyz but I don't know the name. Maybe someone else could help you find one near you. All I did to attach them was swap out the bottom balls (take the ones from bullet's shocks and put them in the Traxxas ones). Then the top has to have some spacers to get the angle/spacing right, you can't use that cone spacer with them so you'll have to use ~10mm's worth or less. The end result is really good---they're stiffer (good for landing high jumps)--but can be tuned just right for your purpose. One guy on the forum used the Traxxas aluminum "big bore" shocks for the Emaxx and he really likes them. If you can get either set for a good price, I'd do it. And if you do, I can help you with a good shock setup that really makes the Bullet handle well.

Your truck looks great with the Traxxas wheels/tires! If you smash up your stock body, Stampede 2wd/4wd bodies fit great. A few of us on URC forums are using E-Maxx shocks with a bit of modification (not much). Anyway, sounds like you have it covered, happy bashing.

No prob, always happy to help a fellow bullet basher if I can! The wr8 center diff is an awesome mod for the bullet...really saves the drivetrain and makes the bullet handle better. Anyaway, throw up some pics of your rig when you get everything sorted, Good luck!

You'll have much more top speed with the wr8 spur. 8 teeth is a big jump for mod1 gears. Watch your temps and gear accordingly. For most people 10t (stock) should be ok, if not go to 8. I suppose shims behind the small bevel gear could work the same as the way I do it. The end result should feel slightly "crunchy"...you can feel the individual teeth engage while you spin the input shaft (with diff out of the truck and placed in the gear case, this will give you the best feel of the mesh) but never binding in any way. You could even try shimming both, up to you. I use Photobucket to get my pics up here. You just sign up for an account, then upload pics there, then copy the link and add it to your post. It will appear when you post your message. Hope that helps.

Differential shimming is when you take 12x15x.2mm shims and install them over the outdrives, up against the bearing, on the bevel gear side of the diff. It makes the gears mesh more tightly and allows more tooth contact so that the force is spread over the entire tooth as opposed to just the edge or half. Proper shimming will drastically strengthen your diffs. Shimming your diff is not an exact science. It is something you'll have to feel. You don't want the gear mesh too tight or too loose. When you've added just the right amount of shims, the gear mesh will feel a little "crunchy"....in other words you'll feel each individual tooth engaging but not binding in any way. I think most Bullets come with 1 shim on the bevel gear side. You should add probably 1 or 2 more and then put the diff back in the case and spin the input shaft by hand. Add or subtract shims based on what you feel. I took this pic awhile back when I had my truck apart. It shows 3, .2mm shims that I use currently in my rear diff. The shims I use are Ofna #38254 but any 12x15x0.2mm shim will suffice. If you check youtube there should be videos that break down exactly what to do. If not, I can try to detail the process a little better. It is worth it.

The perfect wheel replacement for Bullet is something lighter. The heavy weight of the wheels/tyres on the Bullet is what helps break your 40t bevel gear so much. I switched to 2.2" wheels (with Front offset for Traxxas Rustler/Stampede) and I mounted 2.2" Badlands on them. I had to use wr8 12mm hexes also. I estimate they are half the weight of stock tires and my diffs have lasted for over a year now. Have you shimmed your diffs? If not, doing that will also prolong your diff life, big time! I can't comment on alloy diff cups/gearbox since I've never used them. I have a few pics in my gallery of my current Bullet setup, take a look and if you'd like to try switching to 2.2" wheels/tyres I can get you all of the part #'s for what works. If you decide to stick with bigger mt style tyres, shimming will be key. Hope this helps!

Shiny! Your paint job looks awesome too. My Bullet is shelved right now because it has too much play in the front end. I don't want to damage any other parts until I get more alloy bits to take up the slop. It's actually dangerous to drive right now, lol.

The steering servo should be next. It fails easily and doesn't turn the wheels well at all at any speed. The c-hubs and steering knuckles are pretty weak too but they can still last quite awhile unless you hit things hard. Aluminum upgrades are available for both. Shimming the diffs properly will help them to last (mine are still fine after a year). You might want to gear the vxl, 3500kv motor up a bit. The stock pinion is 10, go to at least a 12 or 13 and see how your temps are and go from there. I think the vxl would be fine in the Bullet as long as you can find that sweet spot with your pinion gear. Hope this helps!

I would say the main reason I haven't stripped one yet is due to breaking axle pins first. Those skinny 1.7mm drive pins will snap like twigs long before a properly tightened 12mm hex with good wheels. The only reason I haven't used thicker pins is because I that they do break. It's like cheap insurance and way easier to replace than diff parts and driveshafts, :] Like when I had the slipper clutch still, it would break rear driveshafts like crazy. I modded a 7x83mm (nitro mt2, I think) to fit. Broke that too. Finally I had to mod a Savage 8x83mm driveshaft to fit and put the wr8 center diff in...finally that fixed my drivetrain problems. I don't know if I'd even try a 3674 motor, and that's a high kv, it must be insane! I've thought about going bigger than my 3660 but it works perfect for me. It "fits" the truck, know what I mean? I finally got the truck to where it's drivetrain is durable and I don't want to mess with it. I'm geared 15/46 for the past few months but I might go back down to a 13t soon.

I just went back a page and saw your truck , Honeybadger. That thing looks awesome, nice work! Honestly, if I had problems with my plastic 12mm's I would go to aluminum but I just never did. I'm surprised it hasn't stripped them but if it ain't broke don't fix it, I guess. I've been thinking of trying to do a 17mm hub conversion. I'd like to try to run 1/8 buggy wheels/tyres since they're about the same height/width of my Badlands. Not sure which ones would work for this though.

Yep. 12mm wr8 plastic hexes. Been running it this way for a year and still has stock diffs!(shimmed proper) (I did break 1 set of front diff internals). The 2.2 Badlands are half the weight of stock ST wheels/tyres. When I bought this truck I expected diff problems but proper shim and light wheels/tyres allows me to use 3s with a 550, no problem. Handles good, awesome traction! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/26040-/

Here goes my Bullet with proline bulldog body. Has 36x60mm 550/3200kv on 3s Only. Has Emaxx shocks wr8 center diff/motor mount. Badlands 2.2"/rpm revolvers. My baby! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/26028-/

@thezeronumber. I've found the HPI cvd's to be very durable. I replaced all of my dogbones with them and have not had a problem since. I use a 550 (36x60mm) 3200kv on 3s and have not broken a cvd. Mine are about 5 months old now. They are a little expensive but I think they are worth it. The extra drivetrain efficiency is quite noticeable too. The truck will roll noticeably further when the throttle is released and truck is allowed to roll to a stop. At the same time, if you're not snapping dogbones it might be hard to justify the cost of the HPI cvd's. I know of no other dogbones that will work for this truck unless you can find some 6x84mm ones. I've been abusing my bullet for almost a year now and it's still going strong. Just replaced my first diff internals last week, otherwise my diffs are completely stock! See ya!

I just got back from holiday at the beach and I took my Bullet with me. Took it down on the sand beach with 2.2" Badlands and it was bad ass. Sent rooster tails like a champ and really flew from a stop. Sand running is like a whole new world of rc fun and the Bullet takes it on like a champ. 550/3200kv/3s/wpsc8 was insane powerful and really fast (13/56 gear). If you have some sand area that you can get to, definitely don't forget your Bullet, your jaw will drop at how fun it is!

@tolysk8 The HPI part #'s are HPI 86232 for a 7x83mm and HPI 103664 or 86152 for 8x83mm. It took me a couple hours of drilling and grinding with a dremel to make either of them fit. It's not easy but I hate breaking the same part over and over so it was worth it to me. My bullet is going on 9 months old now and the stock diffs are still fine. I found that they must be re-shimmed as they wear in. I started out with 1 shim each f/r and now 9 months later I have 3 shims front and 2 rear. I take the diffs out and inspect/grease them every ~20 runs. The next weakest drivetrain part I've found is the drive pins in the axles. Snapped quite a few of those especially when landing backflips! Something which has been saving my drivetrain I think, was changing my stock ST wheels/tyres to 2.2" Revolvers/Badlands(~half the weight) Those stock wheels/tyres were really heavy and they would've killed my truck with the power this 550 makes! I have plans to get the wr8 centre diff when I get some cash. I'll post any future drivetrain failures I have guys. mattvrx1, thanks for the link for those diff cups, they look like the ticket!

Hey guys. Been bashing my Bullet regularly and she really takes some abuse. But once I put a 550 size motor on 3s I had driveshafts snapping like twigs. I put cvd's all around and that cured the dogbone failures. But then the rear driveshaft started snapping. I ordered 2 bigger ones 7x83mm (hpi nitro mt4) and a 8x83mm (for a Savage). First I used the 7x83mm and it lasted for about 2 months and then snapped. Damn. So I carefully grinded and drilled to make the 8x83mm Savage fit. Now I've run it about 5 times and its going strong again. I swear, if this thing snaps a Savage driveshaft it's over! The drive pins on that Savage shaft are giant Those backflips were awesome btw, nice!