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Ethan's rc motorbike - Anderson m5


Fly In My Soup

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I went with a 3800Kv 1/10 setup with a 60A ESC ( Quicrun ).

 

It will take any 1/10 setup really, but from what I could tell...running much more just results in unreliability. The Mech gyro runs on a one way bearing to let it freewheel when you take your finger off the gas, and that suffers if you overpower it. Also...chains will wear fast.

 

When you run it, also, you will find it really doesn't need any more speed than that! I could run a 3800 on stock gearing and it was fun. Lipo is fine. 2S packs. My softpack blue Turnigy packs didn;t fit...but I had a couple of hard-case packs that did. On the one I have, I had to trim out the 'round' webs in the battery compartment as they expect NiMh stick packs. Other than that....really....the stock electrics should be OK...but my motor got VERY hot very quickly on grass. Even short grass. I pulled the stock electrics...E-Bayed them sharpish..and went brushless. If I had carried on I reckon the stock motor would have fried itself and probably killed the electrics..so I would say they are marginal at best on Lipo. Brushed..Nimh....fine...but dull. Really quite dull.

 

One other thing though....fit a wheelie bar. Homnemade..shop bought...whatever you want. If you don;t it will wheelie a lot and every time smack the back end of the mudguard into teh ground until it snaps off. they all do that...eventually...but some form of protection means they last a while before that happens!

 

Stock...the front suspension ios horrid. It sticks under load and pogos about a lot. I fitted the alloy upgraded forks...and I would suggest doing the same when you can. It transforms hte front end and lets it actually work. And it has damping...which stock you don't.

 

For a beginner...leave the gyro stock. It will flip flop around a bit...but it will stay upright. When he gets used to it...you can remove weights from the gyro reducing the effect. The bike will handle better, but needs a light touch to stay upright.

 

Also...at some point you will snap off the side guards. I replaced mine with 4mm nylon rod when that happened.

 

Lastly...the rider. He will get wrecked. You can make him last longer by filling him up with expanded foam filler.....and cable tieing around the waist and neck before you fill him. I inserted an antenna tube into the body before filling so the antenna can hide inside the rider neatly.

 

Think that pretty much covers it :)

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All the above!

 

If you have a 1/8 buggy suitable steering servo to hand then bung that in as the stock servo is a bit pathetic! Ensure that the steering horn is set 90 degrees to the steering

rod and re-centre the steering collects. (They should be measuring 17mm either side of the slider).

 

Go mad and spend £3:19 by searching this: 1 x 51" inches (1.3mtrs) Adhesive Lead Tape Golf. Free 1st class post (uk) NEW

Wrap it around the centre rib on both sides of the front wheel, then around the inner rim. As a combo they track along (with the gold damped forks and servo) far better, especially along the rough bits. Getting the very light front end to behave more confidentley needs weight and it is a better 'Damper'.

 

If you an find an Erevo shock with the blue coded spring then you can get a better rear end to match. Me and Whitham69 used 10w in the front and 45-80 ish in the back with the stock spring length.

 

 

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1 hour ago, jb. said:

centre rib 

 

You mean tape the tyres?? As you would a buggy/truggy?

 

I'm no biker....I don't know your jargon?? 

 

11 hours ago, Nitroholic said:

I went with a 3800Kv 1/10 setup with a 60A ESC ( Quicrun ).

 

It will take any 1/10 setup really, but from what I could tell...running much more just results in unreliability. The Mech gyro runs on a one way bearing to let it freewheel when you take your finger off the gas, and that suffers if you overpower it. Also...chains will wear fast.

 

When you run it, also, you will find it really doesn't need any more speed than that! I could run a 3800 on stock gearing and it was fun. Lipo is fine. 2S packs. My softpack blue Turnigy packs didn;t fit...but I had a couple of hard-case packs that did. On the one I have, I had to trim out the 'round' webs in the battery compartment as they expect NiMh stick packs. Other than that....really....the stock electrics should be OK...but my motor got VERY hot very quickly on grass. Even short grass. I pulled the stock electrics...E-Bayed them sharpish..and went brushless. If I had carried on I reckon the stock motor would have fried itself and probably killed the electrics..so I would say they are marginal at best on Lipo. Brushed..Nimh....fine...but dull. Really quite dull.

 

One other thing though....fit a wheelie bar. Homnemade..shop bought...whatever you want. If you don;t it will wheelie a lot and every time smack the back end of the mudguard into teh ground until it snaps off. they all do that...eventually...but some form of protection means they last a while before that happens!

 

Stock...the front suspension ios horrid. It sticks under load and pogos about a lot. I fitted the alloy upgraded forks...and I would suggest doing the same when you can. It transforms hte front end and lets it actually work. And it has damping...which stock you don't.

 

For a beginner...leave the gyro stock. It will flip flop around a bit...but it will stay upright. When he gets used to it...you can remove weights from the gyro reducing the effect. The bike will handle better, but needs a light touch to stay upright.

 

Also...at some point you will snap off the side guards. I replaced mine with 4mm nylon rod when that happened.

 

Lastly...the rider. He will get wrecked. You can make him last longer by filling him up with expanded foam filler.....and cable tieing around the waist and neck before you fill him. I inserted an antenna tube into the body before filling so the antenna can hide inside the rider neatly.

 

Think that pretty much covers it :)

 

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to write this out! Help always appreciated

 

So I now know the spare lrp 8800kv motor I have knocking about won't do well here!!?

 

I'm hunting four parts as we speak!!

 

Many thanks guys...I'm sure I will call upon your expertise soon again!!

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Remove the front wheel. Just pull the tyre off the rim. Crimp a run of lead tape around that centre rib either side and spot dab with TC tyre glue. Refit tyre snugly. Spot dab same. On the Either side of the spokes is a useful part of the 'inner rim'where you can park another run around with lead tape and spot dab glue.

Takes time (usually does) but pays off in better directional stability, esp. with wick motors.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You'll need the steering springs back installed. You can try the 'direct drive' but the front end needs to waggle and 'find its way' over the bumps. I'd move the front scratchbar mount to the rearward mounting place to the hole a cm or so back (above the fan).

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33 minutes ago, jb. said:

You'll need the steering springs back installed. You can try the 'direct drive' but the front end needs to waggle and 'find its way' over the bumps. I'd move the front scratchbar mount to the rearward mounting place to the hole a cm or so back (above the fan).

 

They never left! They've been nipped up to reduce slop...I'm hoping by removing slop from steering setup and going for a 6kg servo will suffice and not make it twitchy to drive...

 

So some slop is necessary?

 

I haven't removed slop completely, but its about 80-90% reduced compared to when I got it...(was a bit of a dogs dinner)

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 18/10/2018 at 12:24, Nitroholic said:

 

Lastly...the rider. He will get wrecked. You can make him last longer by filling him up with expanded foam filler.....!!

 

Think that pretty much covers it :)

 

Oooh I bet that's painful...????

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  • 1 month later...

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