charlesk Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Picked this up today. Had to wait for a few weeks before I could get my hands on it, but hopefully the wait would of been worth it. I have now gone all Kyosho with my race cars, since the 2 others have really worked well for me. I'll build this with minimal upgrades (doesn't really need any) and hopefully have it ready for its first race in just over a week.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 Managed to do a bit of work on it today: Front and rear diffs in place as are hinge pin holders and suspension arms: The ZX6 uses high grade ball diffs, against the current trend of gear diff in 4wds. If the quality is anything like their 2wd diffs, the durability shouldn't be a problem and I prefer the drive of a car with ball diffs. Shock towers on That's it for tonight. Really good feel to the build so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) The chassis looks very nice ive not seen many new kyosho's so will watch this build. My first rc was a kyosho pureten so will always like them. But the plastic diff gears is a surprise. Are they delrin or other high grade or will you upgrade them to alloy if available? The chassis looks top notch tho. edit just read alittle on it sounds very good. i thought it was a tc at first lol. tungsten ball diff too sounds good. Edited October 9, 2014 by RCbutcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si Coe Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Plastic gears are pretty much standard for ball diffed 1/10ths. My Durango 410 has metal diffs but they are geared and basically scaled down 1/8th ones. Will you be building saddle or shorty layout? After the way my Cobra 4210 drives I'm looking at converting my 410 to shorty/reverse motor too - it seems to be the way forwards for both classes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayAVFC Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Looking forward to watching this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 The chassis looks very nice ive not seen many new kyosho's so will watch this build. My first rc was a kyosho pureten so will always like them. But the plastic diff gears is a surprise. Are they delrin or other high grade or will you upgrade them to alloy if available? The chassis looks top notch tho. edit just read alittle on it sounds very good. i thought it was a tc at first lol. tungsten ball diff too sounds good. The gears are a combination of delrin/normal plastic. I do not believe metal ones are available for the ball diffs, at least yet. Saying that and having another 2 Kyosho racers I've not had any issues with their plastics yet. Time will tell but don't expect any issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 (edited) Plastic gears are pretty much standard for ball diffed 1/10ths. My Durango 410 has metal diffs but they are geared and basically scaled down 1/8th ones. Will you be building saddle or shorty layout? After the way my Cobra 4210 drives I'm looking at converting my 410 to shorty/reverse motor too - it seems to be the way forwards for both classes. Correct, metal gears seem to be more the way on gear diffs, but saying that a few have now gone back to plastic spider gears in them (like the v4 410) for a lighter drivetrain. Not many 4wd buggys left with ball diffs as std, the only other one I can think of is the 22-4. D413, DEX410, B44.3, BMax4iii, K1Aero have all moved to gear diffs. Unless I have issues with the ball diffs I'll be staying with them. My driving style suits them more. There are metal gear gear diff available as an option, but they off course are at Kyosho prices... I'll be build this as a rear motor shorty, it's a reasonably heavy car so the shorty might help and got 6 of them so might as well used them lol... Edited October 10, 2014 by charlesk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 A bit more progress today. Rear brace and lipo stop. Used a rudebits brass on instead of the stock plastic one for a bit more rear weight. Battery and holder. Used some alu posts mainly to get rid of the r-clips for the battery. Kyosho's way of a floating servo mount. Simple and effective. Slipper and motor in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Quite a bit more done over the weekend. Built the turnbuckles (everybody's favourite part in build - not). Instead of the stock steel ones I've used some Lunsford Ti ones :-) Nothing wrong with the stock one, just fancied a the Ti ones. Electrics are now in and reasonably tidy. Started building the shocks. Everything stock other than the front springs, where I went to the super hard fronts. The stock front springs are a touch soft for high grip astro/indoor carpet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Lunsford are great, they also come with a life time guarantee so if they break they will send you another on free if charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Looks like an awesome buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Looks like an awesome buggy Thank you, if it drives anywhere near as good as it builds it should be great. Shocks now done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Shocks installed, wheels and tyres fitted (bb greens), wing painted and trimmed (rudebits R1 - like these, use them in every one of my buggies now), basic geometry/height done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Complete with EPA set, esc calibrated etc, ready to hit the track. Quick practice/winter shell on, got a pro painted lightweight shell on its way :-)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Quick update. Had its first run, indoors on carpet this w/e. A couple of small setup changes were needed to plant the rear end. This car has a lot of steering and rotates like a 2wd on tight sections. Great balance on jumps too, jumps flat, really easy to correct if needed and lands v.well. I was out gunned (driving wise) on the meeting, but the car shows real promise. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 looks sweet mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks for this post and all the pics too, am thinking about building this car for my first 1/10 scale 4wd racer. Am a relative newbie so all this was useful stuff to me, please keep the post going with any new progress/tips etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 (edited) Does this kit have the short rear axles same as ZX-5 and RB6? I have seen reviews that recommend the Avid replacement long axle kit for those models. Edited November 16, 2014 by Stilli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 It does indeed, but although I don't doubt that the Avid axles might be stronger, I've been running the rb6 for nearly a year now and had no issues at all, so this will be staying on stock axles until a problem arises. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Problem with the short axles is that not all wheels will fit, thanks for letting me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 (edited) True, but if you use low profile nuts most will do. My wet sets are associated wheels... What wheels did you want to use? I find the Kyosho one good and cheap enough. Edited November 16, 2014 by charlesk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 True, but if you use low profile nuts most will do. My wet sets are associated wheels... What wheels did you want to use? I find the Kyosho one good and cheap enough. Mostly Pro-line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Velocitys? In that case they do fit with low pro nuts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brit_bulldog Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Charles, we change rear antisquat to lose some rear end grip. It makes car lot smoother in corners where grip is high, You will need to Dremel gearbox as the wishbones snag. Have a look at Elliott Boots setup on kyoshoeurope.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Charles, we change rear antisquat to lose some rear end grip. It makes car lot smoother in corners where grip is high, You will need to Dremel gearbox as the wishbones snag. Have a look at Elliott Boots setup on kyoshoeurope.com Thanks, I take it you refer to the 4/2mm spacing under the hinge pin holders? If that is the case, that is what I run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.