XV Pilot

Probably does, but which is better? Something with a warranty that is more likely to go wrong, or something with no warranty that is less likely to go wrong?

Tamiya TS-14 gloss black, part no. 85014.

I know that the Alturns sold as being waterproof are waterproof - I use them in my boats where they get wet quite regularly, and none give any trouble. I don't know about those that aren't sold as being waterproof though.

I have the Arta Garaiya version in my build queue. Looks to be a good 'un!

The basic kit is the same. The short and long wheelbase versions are achieved by using either the forward or rearward mounting points for the rear links. The medium wheelbase versions use little bridge pieces between the mounting points giving a third intermediate mounting point. And of course each version is supplied with a propshaft of suitable length.

If tweaking and scale realism are your thing, one of the most improve-able Tamiya chassis is the CC-01. Comes with a choice of realistic shells too, which you can further enhance with scale accessories, weathering, etc.

Haven't tried that combo personally, but it looks the part. Which hop ups are you running in your TT-02?

The Turnigy Trackstar range is well regarded, not ludicrously expensive but reliable and boasting race worthy performance.

What sort of terrain will you be running on? And are you looking primarily for an interesting build, or is performance also a priority?

If you are sticking with brushed power, that would be the superior ESC. Hope you are up and running again soon!

I I race on carpet, so the bottom of the chassis gets polished as I drive. You can get chassis protectors for outdoor running though - basically stick-on vinyl. Some are quite decorative.

If you have checked everything, including that it hasn't somehow been switched to brushless mode, then it sounds like it might be time for a replacement. The TBLE-02 is quite reliable for the most part but nothing is infallible.

Personally I'd go for the F1. It is a category of car I neglected for years, also thinking that there would be few opportunities to run it, that it would be too difficult to drive due to the simple pan car suspension, etc. However when a mate and I finally agreed to venture into RC F1 after watching a particularly exciting full-size race, I discovered quite what I had been missing. They are light and exceptionally quick, very responsive and capable of amazing cornering speeds. Quite the most exciting class of car I have ever driven, and I have driven a lot of cars over the years!

The M-05 is a more complex chassis than its predecessors, with a higher parts count, greater variety of screws and fasteners, etc. However the instructions are excellent, so you shouldn't have any issues putting it together. It does have an odd quirk though: due to the number of pieces that make up the chassis, it needs a few runs to settle. Once settled though, it is quite robust and resistant to tweaking. The Pro 2 kit has some useful updates, including a metal motor mount included as standard, and the ability to take rectangular LiPos. The alloy steering posts are also nice, although you'll probably want to go for a full alloy steering set if the club rules allow it. The pretty see-through shocks are rubbish though. The plastic is too brittle to allow the use of clip-on ball connectors, so you are limited to sloppy step screws. You'd be far better off with standard black Super Mini CVAs, or TRF short shocks if the budget allows, as they are stronger and can be attached with ball connectors that have minimal slop. Before making your choice, I'd check with the club to make sure the Pro 2 is allowed, as if they restrict motors and ballraces, they might well have restrictions against the Pro 2's enhancements too. Shell-wise, Tamiya and BMW had a difference of opinion a while back over Mini licensing, so they no longer make Mini shells. There are plenty of other manufacturers that still make mini-esque shells though. My nephew uses a Matrixline one on his M-class car. The detail isn't of Tamiya standard, but the moulding quality is good. My M-class shell of choice is the Fiat 500. The rounded roofline increases the chances of it landing back on its wheels if it rolls over, and the rounded corners are less likely to get hung up on track barriers, other cars, etc. Our class rules specify 21.5t brushless or 27T brushed, 6-cell NiMH or 2-cell LiPo. I find it a fun class to race, faster than 1-cell GT12, not as fast as 2-cell GT12, and generally not as serious as either of them. I see it as the lighter side of racing, which I turn to when the competitiveness of F1 pan cars gets a bit much.

I used to race a M-03 regularly, and still have one set up for racing as a backup car. My primary M-class racer is now a M-05. What would you like to know?

Not familiar with that shop. And you know what they say - if something looks too good to be true, it usually is. That said, Tamico has some pretty amazing deals sometimes, and they are a reputable shop based in Germany. Perhaps the German importers get really good rates?

True. Even the ones that are moving forward have ssometimes gone with experimental ideas that are not necessarily better than those that came before.

Not a "must", but certainly a "very nice to have"!

Although brushless motors are usually rated in kV, many race rules still talk about turns, so race spec motors (and those that want to be) usually have a turn rating too. Back in the days of brushed motors this used to refer to the number of times the wire was wound around the armature, but I am not sure how it relates to brushless motors. Winds around the stators maybe? Anyway, it is a fair(ish) indicator of how much current a motor will draw during normal operation, and thus also a useful way of talking about an ESC's spec. If an ESC can supply the current drawn by a 10.5t motor without overloading for example, then it would be rated to 10.5t. The plastic gearbox casing is fine for brushless use, but you might consider fitting a hardened steel pinion if you haven't done so already. The stock lightweight alloy one wears out fast even on the standard motor and will wear out even more quickly with any power increase. Brushless motors on NiMH still have advantages over brushed ones - they are more efficient giving longer runtimes, and they need less maintenance. They are also potentially a bit faster. However for the full brushless experience, I'd agree that LiPo is preferred. If going LiPo with a TBLE-02, bear in mind that you'll either want to use an external battery alarm or mod the cutoff, as it is configured for NiMH/LiFe batteries in stock form. Here is a link to a nice explanation of the cutoff mod: http://laneboysrc.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/tamiya-tble-02s-mod-for-lipo-cut-off.html?m=1

The TBLE-02 will work with any sensored brushless 540-size motor down to 10.5t, however it gets quite prone to thermal cutout when run close to the limit so benefits from the fitment of the optional fan module if you want to go all the way down to 10.5t. I find 13.5t to be the sweet spot with this ESC, giving enough headroom to be able to run tall gearing with no thermal issues even without the fan. All but one of my motors are either Turnigy Trackstar or Speed Passion items, with the odd one out being a no-name Chinese cheap thing I bought at the beginning of my brushless experience when I wanted to test the waters. All have proven to be completely reliable, with the Speed Passions being the best performers, followed by the Trackstars, followed by the no-name thing. One small thing to remember is that it isn't quite plug-and-play. You need to tell the ESC that there is a brushless motor connected, otherwise it won't work. Setting the ESC to brushless mode is pretty easy though, and is covered in the instructions that should have come with it. Another small thing to remember is that some motors come with a really short sensor cable best suited to a touring car installation, while others come with a very long one that is prone to getting in the way. You might therefore want to buy a separate sensor cable that is the right length for the job.

They do - part number 53823. RC Mart have them: http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53823-clamp-type-alum-wheel-hub5mm-p-16433.html?cPath=35_780 You can also get 9mm thick ones under part number 54610 if your car uses the optional longer axles specified when fitting some TT-02 bodyshells.

The Blackfoot Xtreme would have come with a 27t Johnson 62227 "silver can" motor. As for the radio gear, can't help you there - back in those days I was a Futaba man. This thread on Tamiyabase should be of use though: https://tamiyabase.com/forum/forum/11-technical/3503-acoms-2-channel-stick-radio-evolution.html

Nice! Your TT-02D will be the envy of many!

Pretty much any TC can be built to go fast with the power available from today's motors and batteries. However high speed runs usually mean running outdoors on quiet roads and parking areas, which means debris, which means a sealed shaft drive is easier to maintain than an open belt drive. My mate owns a HPI RS4 Sport 3 Flux, which seems perfect for such use. Rugged and powerful, with a sealed drivetrain and waterproof electrics, it is hugely quick and very reliable in all weathers, even on less than ideal surfaces.

One of those questions I can answer straight away: you don't need a receiver battery anymore. These days the receiver is fed off the main drive battery via a voltage regulator (BEC) built into the electronic speed controller. As for the main drive battery, you have a wide selection available due to the Hotshot's spacious battery bay. What sort of runtimes will you be after, what sort of terrain will you be running on, and what motor and gearing will you be running? As for the charger, this will depend on the battery type. If you are certain you are going to stick with NiMH batteries, something like a Vector NX85 will do nicely. If you see LiPo as a possibility, an Overlander RC6-VSR is a good bet.