norney hurtmore

hole to hole, with rubber grommets and brass bushings is 67mm (end to end) and side to side is 15mm

wind the HSN all the way in (clockwise and gently so as not to bend the tip) then wind it out 1.5 turns. you don't say what cc engine is or what carb you are using. I have a 28.5cc zen and it runs best with the HSN 1 3/4 turns out.

SUPERB DAY big thanks go out to Kev and his entourage for a mammoth effort into producing a top notch venue. Some great racing around a great track (think we've ripped all the grass up now....save's you having to cut it again...lol) 1st class pit banter and a really sound bunch of lads. Burgers and hotdogs were a nice touch but think you need a few more lessons from Jeff...lol will certainly be joining you again soon

the early kingMotor's came with their own engine. The heads on these were well known for destroying themselves

if he held the throttle on for another 5 seconds, he would strip the gears...lol

racing against another yama buggy will probably be fun race against any other 1/5 scale will see you scouring ebay for an engine with a bit more oomph upgrading the engine before upgrading the rest of the car will leave you with a box of broken plastic parts assuming you have an alloy gear carrier (if your carrier is still plastic you can get a male and female balljoint to brace the shafts

anybody know what kills the plugs? I'm on my 3rd plug in four years ( different car now, probably my third engine, countless heads......i keep the new plugs that come with the heads as spare's and these usually get "loaned out" to other RAW members on a sunday) An over rich oil mixture will foul the plug (don't rely on the accuracy of mixing bottles) as will running too rich for a long period but a fouled plug can be cleaned and will work again. When i've changed my plugs its because they start stuttering at high revs and cleaning doesn't help. If its a heat issue burning out the electrode, maybe a colder plug (cmr8h) would make a difference. Has anybody tried these?

how accurate is your 2 stroke mixing?, could you be using too much oil?

start from 1 1/2 on the high, even 1 3/4 if you have a 36mm ported head better to run rich and have to lean it than to run lean from the off imo of course

think you may struggle to find upgrades for that model

its very similar to an FG Marder, its a great first petrol 1/5th scale. all parts can be had from here http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en-.html

as Sphinx say's , don't do it. a KM baja will last a lot longer and you'll have more fun with it unless you're happy to practise your engineering skills making parts for the Yama The Yama is a copy of the XRC and while the design is clever, the execution is crap all IMO of course

its high temp silicone hose

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-mm-PERFORMANCE-STRAIGHT-SILICONE-RADIATOR-HOSE-PIPE-/250326219695?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a489afbaf this stuffs pretty cheap

on the plus side for alloy parts, it will make the car handle a lot sharper and any adjustment you make to the suspension,, steering etc etc will make a noticeable difference to the way the car handles. There is a lot of flex in the plastic

just wind 2 long M6 bolts into the 2 holes either side of centre ring (with the nut off the crankshaft of course...lol) wind them evenly when they bottom out and the flywheel will pop off, watch out for woodruff key dropping out happy days

1 1/4 -1 1/2 LSN and 1 1/2 HSN This will get you started

cool, you'll see that coming. Low profile tyres, normally found on Carson cars, you may need to up your gearing to compensate check the foams ( squeeze the tyre all the way round) when the foams get wet and are left to dry on the car, the foam sinks to the bottom but you can usually feel it. This WILL lead to bearing failure these are cheap and offer good traction on grass http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MCD-Multistud-Tyres-S-Green-Wheel-MCD-FG-Harm-etc-/150647241592?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2313467b78 as do these http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/products/y0658-y0658-narrow-grip-462-type-tires-glued-either-hpi-fg-carson-and-co-2-pcs-.html

you need to use thin solder as the gap is going to be very small The only other way that i know involves slicing your cylinder head in half and using feeler guages...lol

http://www.amazon.co...39329726&sr=8-1 if using this style of mixing bottle, take a kitchen style measuring jug, fill it up to the 1 litre mark and then see where it comes to in the bottle. 1 litre in mine fills up to the bottom of arrow (not the top like bottle requires you too......takes an extra 50ml to fill up to line on bottle) I run a 32-1 mix which is 31.25ml of oil per litre or 32.8ml if i fill up to the mark. Adding the oil doesn't even bring it up to the 50-1 mark on the bottle. I'm not saying all bottles are this far out, just suggesting that anyone using this style bottle may want to check

better to take pullstart off and hold flywheel than use piston stopper have seen a few piston stoppers jam and then snap leaving half of it in plug hole.....not good

the Yama buggy looks to be a copy of the XRC if it doesn't come with an alloy gear carrier then expect to grt thru' a lot of gears.....and using steel gears doesn't help Too much flex in the plastic gear carrier all in my opinion of course

pushing primer bulb just pulls fuel thru carb....wont show if jets are clear if your engine won't run or runs like a bag of shiv, try a different carb to eliminate the carb from the equation To clean carb properly you have to take top off (4 little screws around primer) and the bottom off (one big screw in the middle) take the needles out and check the tips are straight and clean all the little mesh filters inside (now you can swirl it around in a pot of petrol....doing it with carb together just moves any dirt around inside and won't actually get rid of it) You can buy a carb gasket kit for a tenner (do this before you take carb apart) When a carb stops working completely its usually cos one of the little mesh screens are completely blocked or the diaphragm in the bottom of the carb is either stretched or torn. The other thing to watch for is wear in the carb body around the throttle spindle (this uaually gives a high or inconsistent idle. hope this helps.

http://rc-car-online...-co-2-pcs-.html Kev, the wheels are these, really good grip but soft !! Good to see the shells still holding up and if you watch the vid you'll see that punisher at 2:50....just behind the baja [media=] pretty sure Deano won an award for that

http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/products/y0441-ht-y0441-rim-reinforcement-for-fg-1:6er-rim-60200-and-60205-2-pce.html and for fg baja rims http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/products/y0441-ht-y0441-rim-reinforcement-for-fg-1:6er-rim-60200-and-60205-2-pce.html