pitchshifter

The Ansman Xbase is an excellent charger and it's come down in price too. Not sure charging in 30 mins is possible for most high capacity batteries it's usually about 1 hour. Anyway the xBase allows you to charge at a higher current within safe limits so you can try.

Perhaps you could add a Failsafe to the list.

OK, so I've just burnt out 2 glow plugs running in hot weather. One was the original one that came with the car (lightning 10 sport with 2.5cc engine), and the other was a spare OS 3 plug. Both of which I understand are hot plugs designed for beginners and breaking in the car. I have tuned my car pretty well I think and it runs very well, and gets very hot obviously. Am I ready for a cold plug or do I need to stick to medium plugs? And also, do I still need to have a couple of hot plugs for cold weather? I was thinking of getting HPI R4 or OS No8, any reccomendations?

Wolfie is right about gearing, getting a pinion gear with 1 or 2 extra teeth will makes excellent sense for you to buy along with the new motor. You might as well stick a new pinion gear on the new motor as the old one might be worn anyway. Look at your manual to see the different sizes you can use. Or maybe its printed on the motor mounting plate, unscrew it and have a look. Pinion gears usually have about 19-23 teeth. If your mounting plate has extra screw holes you have a choice of pinion sizes, if it doesn't, you don't have a choice. Definately worth sticking on the order as they only cost about

Buy two 4500 MAh NiMH batteries for

Cheers. More questions. Glow plugs: Can you use any glow plug, are they standard sizes? I was thinking of getting a spare glow plug (and a spare pullstart) when I order some more fuel and the OS A3 appears good value and suitable for .15 engines.

I'm a beginner and I've just bought the HB Lightning Stadium 10 Sport as my first nitro car and for the price it's excellent. If you've never used nitro engines before I'd say this is a good starting point, because of it's cheap price. I was uncertain and didn't want to spend more than

I hope my hub carriers are OK, I have a tendency to hit every obstacle going! lol Stadium 10 specific Fuel questions: 1. I'm using the Model Technics 16% fuel supplied by Modelsport in the starter pack at the moment (and also got an extra 2.5L). Is there any point in going to 20%? Will it make a significant improvement in performance or running time? It does state it requires 20% on the box. 2. What fuel do you use? 3. Is there a cheaper place to buy fuel? 4. How long do you get from a full tank? I get about 8-10 mins. 5. Do you wait till it runs out or try and re-fill before it runs out? It's tricky to try and let it get to about 1/4 full and re-fill it with the body on, but it sure beats restarting.

Where do you get it for

Which rotostart fits the Lighning Stadium 10 Sport? My pullstart is already starting to go.

Had a good day running my new stadium 10, I took it into work as there is a large carpark and on Saturday it's empty. It started fairly easily and I did some full throttle runs and a bit of tuning, no more stalling at full throttle! Leaned hsn a bit more and that thing really goes. Later on I took it to another piece of wasteground/carpark which was basically loose dirt and broken asphalt with assorted massive pot holes, patches of grass and stones. Wicked fun kicking up tonnes of dirt and stones doing donuts and going really fast. Hit a pot hole and it went head over heels about 10 times, then kept running! It's pretty tough. Got a fair few scrapes and its well and truly filthy. Baptism of fire I reckon . Spent 2 hours cleaning it .

Do you still need to preheat yours?

Update: Got it started! Using the quick priming method of blowing through the fuel pressure pipe with the throttle open. Preheated with hairdryer. Started it by pulling gently until I feel compression then waiting a couple of seconds before pulling quickly (this I think was the most important part). I adjusted the idle screw so the wheels stopped spinning and sat it on a box clamped in my workmate. I let it idle for a few mins, then while holding it, I started gently giving it some revs upto about 1/3 throttle. The throttle response seems excellent, but if I give it too much it stalls. The exhaust seems to be emitting the right amount of smoke and it is spitting some unburnt fuel and after a while the pipe gets full of oil and needs tipping out. OK so, next step is to get it so it doesn't stall. Damn shame the weather is bad tomorrow, anyway I'm still bringing it into my works car park just in case it stops raining!

Thanks for the replies, I'll try the blowing fuel into the carb while opening the throttle trick. It does feel easy to pull by the way, as if there is not enough compression. Heating up with a hair dryer seems to help though, but surely it must get to a point when you don't need that. I'm in Chesham, Buckinghamshire.

Hi nitro owners, I've just bought a HB Lightning Stadium 10 truggy and am having some difficulty re-starting it. I had some success the first time and managed to idle the first tank and do a bit of medium throttle running in. Now it's being a b*tch to start. Wastegate, when you say the HSN is 2 turns out do you mean from fully tightened? And is the LSN 1 turn out from flush a reliable starting position? How easy should a nitro engine be to start generally, surely once the needles are set up it should start with a couple of sharp pulls (assuming it's not stuck at TDC or flooded etc.) Please tell me this is going to get better because it's frustrating right now.