jamie_horwood

Are there any British made RC cars at all.

What about the HoBao Hyper ST Truggy RTR. They have a MACStar 4.3cc Engine. I was thinking about one of these for my next model to move in 1/8 scale. I really have never had a problem with traxxas. Its been fine and the engines are distinctively different. EZ Start is also trouble free for me and especially quickly clearing flooded engines. I dunno whats wrong with traxxas, mine has run like a gem and its damn fast and taken a bashing at speed. tough chassis. tough toe links.

I only needed to richen my low speed needle. Someone told me that it was too lean. So now its around 2 -2.5 turns anti clockwise. My cars problems are solved an thanks for the help an advice everyone. I used super heavy duty glow plugs for colder weather now aswell. I've got a charger that charges nicds 1700mah in 38mins flat now. A fresh battery makes a huge difference for my starter motor turning the engine. Only problem is car needs tuning some more as the car is a bit slow on acceleration an I have to put quite a bit of throttle on the pistol grip handset to get it to move. Can this be resolved by turning down the idle speed needle aswell? or should I just carry on trying to achieve the low speed needle pinch test and get the LSN right? Or should I try leaning the HSN a bit? Or the idle needle?

Ok. So let me get this right. I need to screw the lsn needle anti clockwise even further out right to the end. Further than the yellow ring in the traxxas manual. Exactly how many turns is this please. Thanks. please let us know. Back to work tomorrow. So dunno if I'll be able to re-check anytime soon.

All I know is I turned low speed needle screw head clockwise until it was closed. I then turned it anti clockwise one complete turn, then three quarters again. So it now looked like it does in the manual or as I thought 1.75 turns open?. The needle screw head (red) is more or less flush with the (yellow) ring pointed out in the manual around the (red) screw head. IS this what you mean ?

Yes I can feel the rubber seal is seated ok. as I said earlier the fuel cap seems to close firmly as you can feel the pressure of the spring and everything

Hi MANNY. How do I know if the pressure like is ok? When I emptied the fuel tank to perform clean on engine. I noticed bubbles in the fuel line. The fuel cap lid closed firmly as I tightened the lid with the wrench.

CAR STILL STALLING ON FASTER ACCELERATION. I performed after run procedure with after run oil. Fitted freshly charged battery to EZ start and fitted new Super Heavy Duty GLow Plug. The Low Speed needle is at 1.75 turns open. High Speed needle is 4 turns open. I don't know where the idle speed is or should be but its idling at high rpm. I know the HSN and LSN are supposed to be right. Are these factory settings overly rich or not for HSN and LSN? It took a while for the engine to start. I think I just kept covering exhaust to prime and also just tried 2 second bursts on the starter. It did take at least 5 minutes but then it was very cold out this morning. I think It finally started later because it got warmer with the sun beating down on ther car. After a few minutes idling high it got quite scary as the car tried to pull away from me so I did lower the idle needle a bit to stop it from pulling away. I started to see lots smoke from the cylinder Head after a minute or so idling at high rpms. I don't know if this is because there is burnt or burning fuel inside cylinder head or whether it's a combination of this and the plastic tie wraps holding the cylinder head protector in place as it comes loose. When I noticed the engine getting hot and smoking I tried a few high speed passes then leaning by 1/4 turn. Can someone help me out so I can try fix this problem. I keep getting confused which settings I have changed then I have to start all over again from square one. Leaning and richening a bit didn't seem to fix the stall on acceleration. I want this to be gone. Why should the car be stalling on acceleration when its at base settings. This is so annoying. I can't have any fun as I accelerate faster it just stalls.

So these factory settings that I have my Carb at. HSN 4 turns open. LSN 1.5 - 1.75 turns open. Is this a good air/fuel mixture ratio. Or am I overly rich or overly lean on HSN. Or overly rich or overly lean on the LSN. ?

Can you list what to try if your at factory settings and say the car might still stall when you accelerate fast rather than not stalling when accelerating more slowly.

I just take my litre or so glow fuel bottle and take much care pouring the fuel fluid in without a fuel bottle dispenser

Anyone live near Rawdon who takes their cars out at weekend? I have no transport. or a nitro car club but not racing.

Cool. Thanks a bunch for the advice & recomendation. Gotta say i like the schumacher RIOT. Lots and lot and lots of lovely purple anodized parts. The last time I uprated a car to purple anodized parts was the HPI Rush - My first Nitro Truck. Some lucky person got lots of spare parts accesories with aluminium camber link and toe link and shocktower already fitted of my own hard grafting lol.. oh that was fun. I fit a Kyosho Pull Start which would have actually have cost less than the Rush Pull Start assembly and it lasted longer. That was the day. It was a lovely little truck though loved it to bits.. It took a right bashing but always started never failed.

Hi hotflames55 Ah Good memories spring back to life. http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.php?lang=en&partNo=564 I owned one of the orignal Rush - not the evo. It was my first Nitro car aswell. As aspudgun has said. It has a great little heart. And the little engine will always fire up and purrr away. There should be no problem with the evo as it had the more powerful T-15 engine with 2 needle carb. Mine had the less powerful They are quite powerful and plenty enough for a beginner. You get a Roto Start included. And yes there are plenty of hop up parts. The only parts I ever replaced were fouled glow plugs, rear plastic shock tower for aluminium purple graphite shock tower to reduce weight and strengthen in crash even more. This one gives you more adjustability over the standard shock tower. I would definately also upgrade the front Toe Link (Turnbuckle) and front camber link for increased strength in crashes as I did for the aluminium version. As I crashed mine and the turnbuckles were not that tough at all they just bent. I also had to replace a broken Pullstart for a Kyosho one. But that was a doddle fitting that one. Yes it's got a great aftermarket hop up potential. I'd definately go for one of these or HPI's new http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.php?part...511&lang=en which is totally aimed at the entry level piston head in mind. Other than that they are difinately really reliable even in colder weather. You look after the Rush an it'll totally look after you. Few years down the line you'll be recommending it to others I hope as we have. Total thumbs up

Thanks Boze that is one heck of a help that tuning guide. I've just read it now. Just A silly question again. When I take the air filter off to look at the carburetor. My idle seems to be 0.5mm - 1mm - the gap on the left. Is it the throttle trim connected to the slide valve with the low Speed needle ? And If I adjusted the Low Speed needle - does this change what I see in the carburetor with the air filter off being more open or closed and does this in turn affect the gap on the left with the idle ?