DH1900

I'm also considering buying new but if anyone has a decent offer they want to make. I used to have an XTM XT2 which I loved to bits and I'd like something that can take at least that much of a beating.

I'm sure almost everyone on here knows this but I'll state it anyway just in case the OP doesn't know. If you are running on model technics fuel your engine will run too hot (that is, the new pro power, it's orange as opposed to the usual MT yellow) the pro power made my engine run so hot that while it was so rich that oil was dripping from the exhaust I would have to stop after half a tank to let the engine cool off because the fuel was boiling in the carb.

In my defense I was drunk at the time. I feel I should explain, the H&S department use an assessment as a means of quickly stopping an activity they disapprove of (I'm almost 100% certain they're all guardian readers). If I submit the assessment all that will happen is they'll say I can't do it without adequate supervision. That doesn't mean I won't try, that just means that I won't get my hopes up.

I've just sold my nitro buggy because I've been told that I'll have to do a health and safety assessment if I want to use my buggy anywhere on the university playing fields (the only place I can really run it during term time). An H&S assessment is the kiss of death for any reasonably fun activity and effectively this means I can't use it for most of the year in any meaningful sense. It just seems petty and mean of health and safety to do this but I've got no choice as I want to finish my degree. Thanks for all the help, you're a great forum.

PMd

UPDATE: I'm now willing to post the buggy.

Used, but not abused XTM XT2. The engine has had a third of a litre of model technics 16% and just under half a gallon of byrons 20% through it and is tuned slightly rich. It comes with a half gallon of byrons 20% (and the MT if you want it) metered glow starter +charger, secondary air filter sleeve, ARO, Air filter oil, manual, and everything else the XT2 came with except for the allen keys (though I'm including a TT plug spanner). The engine is the standard XTM 24.7 so if you're planning to race you'll need another engine but for bashing it's insane. There are three minor problems (but these are the only problems): The body shell has some paint missing from when I got nitro fuel on it (not a fault of the buggy but rather the fault of the crappy ripmax fuel bottles). I can't find the body clips. (Found the clips) The wing is cracked because, ironically, I removed it to protect it from damage during transit and it fell out of the separate box it was being transported in and had an encounter with a fridge and the back of a car seat. There is also a failsafe fitted. This buggy is really good fun for bashing, it flies reasonably well but it's speciality is that it is rock solid with 5mm steel braces on the front and rear shock towers. Once primed she'll start on the first or second pull happily. Here are the pictures: Here's a review with some nice detailed internal pics including a full stripdown: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article...?article_id=754 note: unlike the review mine has pozidrive (crosshead) screws (because the american version uses imperial sizes) and comes with a 3 channel transmitter and a 5 channel receiver which (40mhz FM, #86 crystal). I'm selling because my halls of residence at uni don't see eye to eye with me about the storage of flammable liquids in my room or the use of an RC buggy on the playing fields. edit:While I would prefer collection (I don't have to sell the fuel separately) I have decided that because there doesn't seem to be any interest I guess I'll have to offer this item posted. Feel free to PM me with any and all questions.

Here you go: http://210.202.20.209/upload/upload_file/C...TS4n-manual.pdf edit: my bad, that's just a set up manual, not a parts list.

They're quick and reliable but they don't take crashes well because of the light construction (that is, you almost always have to replace something, the central sections are strong so the most I've ever had to replace is a suspension arm or at worst the bulkhead. The best place to race them is in a car park that is free of gravel and other dirt. For the price they're the best you can get but personally I think it's totally worth saving up and getting a buggy, the TS4n was nippy, my XTM XT2 is insane (though that does cost almost twice as much). edit: from my limited experience of nitro I can say that the engines are insanely reliable, my friend has an original TS4n (not the plus that you get now) and despite it being left with fuel in the crank case, tubing and tank after a couple of flushes with clean fuel it started happily on the second pull (it's pretty weird going back to a pull start .12 engine after being used to a .247 engine).

Ebuyer's good: http://www.ebuyer.com/search/?intStoreID=2...tSubcatUID=1291 You can get some 40 and 60mm ones, don't know if 12v is a little much to supply (I'm a nitro guy so I only have a 6v supply in my buggy)

That's what I do, I basically wash my buggy off with HPI nitro cleaner because It's only

Thanks to everyone for your input.

Hi, I've been wondering this ever since my first nitro RC (also my first real RC car, up til then I'd only ever had toy RC cars). Correct me if I'm wrong but I get the impression that the main reason people go for electric over nitro is the ease of use, lack of fumes and reduced maintenance. Let's assume for a moment that nitro and electric gave the same performance, had the same maintenance requirements, the same costs and both were as easy to use would you still use electric or would you use a nitro engine? I'm just trying to get a better idea of why people pick electric. One of my favorite parts of nitro is that the preparation is much less than electric, I can spontaneously decide to go out and bash for as little as half a tank of fuel or keep going until I run out of fuel or crash, I still understand that the after maintenance and costs required for nitro are far more than electric but the roar of that engine as it blasts up the road makes up for it in my opinion. Thanks

I'm going to shamelessly promote the XTM XT2 based on the fact it continues to survive my abuse. I have a track record of destroying remote control things and this resists my stupidity despite its engine size (.247). So far the only thing I've had to fix on it was the pullstart but apart from that it's done cartwheels, rolls and flips and it also stays running upside down for quite a while (good if you drive like a nutter). Stick a failsafe in it and get the secondary filter sleeve (it fits over the air filter and means you can get away with cleaning the inner one less often and because the outer one is thinner and coarser it takes less time to dry) though.

Really, don't put a brine on your brake discs. The last thing you want is some salt accidentally getting in the engine, electronics or steel parts that aren't stainless.

Thanks, looks like the way the body is clipped on is the reverse of my XTM, there's one central pin at the front and two at the back. Still, it would look really cool, like it was reversing at an insane speed.

I saw a while ago some body shells that go over your buggy and make it look like a pickup truck but I can't remember where I saw the damn things. Anyone know where I can get them from? My buggy's an XTM XT2.

Depends on the dimensions and layout of the backplate. Ask the shop you're buying it off for the distance between the screw holes.

Crap, the spring snapped in half as I removed it. Any thoughts? edit: Are there any better made pull starts that I can stick on the XT2?

Thanks, would it just be worth buying a better one? I've heard the XTM ones are particularly atrocious.

I was just finishing up after a bit of bashing, clearing fuel from the crank case and I suddenly found the pull start body and the string separated. Most of the repair guides I've found describe what to do if the string won't recoil, not what to do if you've destroyed the damn thing. Is it worth repairing or should I get a new one, and if the latter is true what is the most cost effective replacement? (I can't really afford and I don't really want a rotostart) Thanks edit: the string doesn't look like it's snapped, there's a knot at the end.

^Yes the transmitter/reciever should be on but they don't have to be on, if you are going to start without the radio gear on take the wheels off or put it on a box so the wheels aren't touching anything and start it at the idle position.

If you've got

Then get yourself the XTM XT2, you'll get a better deal (assuming it's the same