imperialchao

First time painting a lexan body😁 I am thinking to tint the window but not having good idea what to use..

I am running 2 21T motors and stock pinion configuration (steel 32DP 13 teeth). The ESC in the kit now is a genuine HobbyWing 880 but pre-programmed (RTR). Indeed the ESC datasheet says motor limit is 24T if using dual motor (the stock silvercan is 27T). But I have read that people are using two 15T HPI firebolt without any problems. I have run my two 21T motors for two weeks and almost 10 full charges (2S Lipo) and everything seems fine. No cutoff, no overheating etc. I also checked the motor temperature regularly and they are mildly hot even doing wheelie or full throttle. What I feel now is this ESC leaves a lot of "reserved" capability. On the other hand, 880 can handle 80A constant current and 400A burst. This is from what I know pretty high for two brushed motor around 20T. To compare, Tamiya sport tuned (23T or 27T with advanced timing) draws around 13A during normal usage. To go "over the limit" or not has to be decided by you as after all it is not within what the datasheet says. Here is the link of the 21T motor (£16) I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09NTZPM2L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. A lot of other brands use this motor with their own stickers/paints but with a higher price tag. It has an open endbell and ball bearing and comes with 0 timing. I am not sure whether its timing can be changed as the slot showing the timing mark has a plastic notch that prevents it from being rotated. Also I dont know whether the screw holding the end can be slided to rotate the endbell. I have seen some cheap motors that look like the endbell can be rotated but inside there are only two fixed screw hole...

I might have ruined this truck body😅 Other changes recently: 1. 21T brushed motor (0 timing) 2. Steel pinion gear 3. Replace Tamiya connector with XT60 and start to use 2S Lipo 4. Rear tyres are glued as Lipo power makes the rim slip... I used silicone seal and its perfect. 5. Waiting for the gearbox guard to arrive 6. Removed the super clodbuster decal and ordered some from Amazon. TBH its worse than I thought🤪

Ah its small world lol. Ok will contact you when needing new mods 🙂

Yes I share the same feeling as you. Its probably the only rc monster truck that has been supported continuously for almost 40 years! I was wondering if I should get some spares for the truck, but to be honest I think whenever I need them, I can source it somewhere:). I am wondering what Tamiya will make the new Clod like, if they eventually to make it happen. For solid axle monster trucks, there are famous LMT, Kyosho USA1 2021 version, etc.. They are very powerful and pretty much have all the good features of a monster truck. Can the new Clod find a place to fit in? For now I just bash my old fashioned Clod:)

Cheers. May I ask are you the guy who runs ukmonsters shop?

Today I just finished the last mod I would like to add to my Clod, the shock lift. Now I will just enjoy the bashing and jumping (a little 🙂). Mods that I have done: 1. Axle mounted steering servo F & R. I have to say this improves the truck maneuverability by 500%. Mounting kits are from Ukmonsters. Servo is 25KG torque one from Amazon. 2. Front aluminium bumper to protect exposed steering linkage and servo horn. I added this after the truck hits a rock and bend the steering linkage. Kits from Ukmonsters. 3. 100mm Aluminium shock X8. As clod does not need high performance shocks, some nice looking ones will suffice. But I am still pleased to say that the shock I got from Amazon is actually pretty good for only £35 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0816XY4W8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). 4. Shock lift (0.5 inch). This is the last mod I added today. After changing the shock, the ride height is too low and the axle mounted servo keeps hitting the chassis (the distance is around 1cm). By lifting the ride height, there is about 2.5cm travel distance between the top of the servo and bottom of chassis. Had a test today and it never hits again even with some jumps! Regarding the shock, I see from many threads that the stock shock will be enough. But after changing the Alu shocks I found: firstly the rattling sound of the stock plastic shock (pogo stick) is gone. secondly the truck body is much more stable. Also some say that 100mm shock is ok. In my experience it is too short, especially if the on axle steering is done. The vertically mounted servo (even the top is at the same level with the gearbox top) hits the chassis too easily... So either you can get 110mm shock straightaway or get a 100mm one with a lifter like what I have done. You can clearly see the difference before lifting and after in the pictures below. Here we go. Hope you are enjoying. Cheers, Leo

Hello guys. I have an almost new Monster Beetle Trail for sale as recently I got a super clodbuster so I want to put the resources into this big thing. Full ball bearing installed. ESC and servo included. No radio. Price is £190. Collection prefered. I live near Milton Keynes. I can also deliver if close enough. Cheers, Leo