Craigyboy83

Thinking of picking up an axial ryft or Capra for autumn. I have never owned a crawler of any type so I’m a bit clueless. I do a lot of mountain biking and know of some amazing places for rock crawling I’d love to try. I know the ryft is a bouncer technically but there are places where a bouncer would be great fun as well as spots a crawler would be better. With the two speed gearbox can the ryft give the best of both worlds or is it a compromise. I’m not taking the whole thing too serious and just looking for something to play with but would still like it to perform well. As I say I’m clueless on crawlers/bouncers so any help appreciated. Thanks

Bump

Selling my little tamiya m07 concept, just can’t get into on road stuff. Built it up in may and probably ran 10 packs through it. Fun little car to drive, turns great with power on. Built stock, few scratches on the bottom from running on asphalt. Comes with spare medium compound tamiya radials mounted on rush wheels and a spare set of tamiya hard compound radials un mounted. Included will be an assortment of spares that came with the car. Comes with ithe core rc 15t silver can and hobbywing brushed esc £120 plus post.

There 60c batts, to be fair it’s a big 6200mah pack being run on a loose dusty surface which needs a lot of aggressive throttle action, maybe it’s reasonable for it to get hot then

I got out yesterday for a run with my hyper VS buggy and a new hobbywing max8 combo I had put in after the original esc died, it’s the cheaper sensor less combo (not g2) with the 2200kv combo. It’s running good but I did have a temp cut off issue at one point, running on mostly loose dirt and 4s. The motor was hot enough that touching wasn’t overly pleasant and the battery was very warm as well. It’s currently on a 16t pinion that was stock, the mesh is good and the drivetrain is free feeling. Is it just a case of dropping pinion a couple of teeth as the motor is 200kv higher than stock setup? Any help from those with more knowledge than me would be greatly appreciated.

The Esc won’t let me reset, holding the set button does along with switching on does nothing, I’ll try a pulling motor wire and see what happens. time to spend some £££ on some new kit I think

Thanks for the suggestions stormbringer. Its definitely is a strange one, just to grind to halt like that. I’ll maybe pick up a new max8 motor and esc combo and see just replace the whole lot.

I don’t have another moto mr to try but even after sitting for a few hours it’s still no beeping for the battery. The car still seems to roll freely, I should maybe take the motor out and spin it on its own and see

Been running my Hoboa hyper Vs RTR for a few months (pretty sure it’s a hobbywing max 8 esc in the RTR), probably about 30 packs or more through it but had a little issue today I couldn’t resolve. The car stopped running while I was driving and wouldn’t go again, when I unplugged the battery and plugged it back in the motor didn’t beep for the cell count and now the red and green lights stay solid lit on the ESC, I thought it was maybe the pack but I’ve tried 2 other fully charged 4s packs and it still doesn’t work, fan comes on at the esc but it seems like it maybe the motor at fault? It did have an intermittent problem previously where occasionally it just wouldn’t pick up throttle input for a split second but I hadn’t had that in ages, not sure if it could be connected. Any input from those wiser than me would be greatly appreciated!

Wera wera do make brilliant stuff, I use a lot of there stuff for work and the quality is above most brands

It’s an m07 concept for racing in the mini class, haven’t built a tamiya in a good 20 years, I may look into sourcing the screws individually, or at least the ones that will be in and out regularly

Thanks for the feedback, that’s exactly what I was afraid of, nothing complicated a simple job more than stripped hex heads, I’ll avoid those

Trying to pick up a hex set of screws for a tamiya mini build and the place in the title came up on Google, just wondering if anyone has any experience with them? If so are the screws decent quality?

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Bump still for sale

A while back I got back into RC myself after years away and bought the granite 4x4 with the brushed setup for about £230. While not a direct comparison it is similar. After two days of driving the brushed motor burnt out, I then got another brushed motor from a different company and it was fine but tbh I quickly got bored of how slow the truck was and decided to upgrade to brushless. It cost me an about £250 in parts i.e motor mounts, new slipper clutch and a host of small parts where needed to beef it up to handle brushless and that’s not counting a lipo battery. There were alot of parts needed and in the end I still didn’t have the metal hex mounts and adjustable turnbuckles of the 3s BLX. I got my son a mega 550 brushed (he’s only 9 so brushed is plenty for him) granite for Xmas and the brushed motor also only lasted a week so we had to throw in my old brushed motor and fan to keep it right. I would say if you have any plans to use it regularly you will want to quickly upgrade or possibly have to. I really like my granite now but I wish I just had of bought brushless to begin with as it was a lot of hassle. Also I’m not sure how it would handle in 2wd, in 4wd it is a pretty tail happy truck and definatley has plenty of oversteer on loose surfaces as it is quite short in wheelbase. Starting again I would either buy the 3s blx or gab that associated to begin with

Nice tacky looking dirt there!

Yeah been riding for 25 years, I was lucky to grow up in a great area for riding so it has just been part of life for me, mostly raced and rode Downhill until my thirties then I switched to riding and racing enduro, now I just ride for fun and fitness. Just built up this new frame as a warranty replacement from SantaCruz after my old frame broke (lifetime warranty is a great thing). I like to run a big burly bike as we have the terrain locally and it’s always what I enjoy the most.

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Yeah it was 2 in, I have it set neutral now. I always set 2wd buggies it’s 1-2 in front and just went to default with that, I’ll get it out this afternoon and see how it feels now

IIRC the rear has 3 degree of toe in inserts installed from factory, maybe I could drop this back to 2 degree. I have just set the front back to zero for for now as I had it at 2 degrees

Thanks for all the info guys a lot to tweak. The steering rate was about right, I had previously tried to set the car up lower at the front than rear to get a bit more steering. I should have said totally stock except for orange (firm) springs and it’s 4s lipo with the stock 16t pinion. The tyres where just some cheapo Fastrax hobbies from modelsport that I wanted to burn off but I couldn’t even get sideways to make a dent in them, temps over here in Northern Ireland are actually quite mild today, 11 degrees it got to. I’ll work through the list of things to try. I have set up a few 2nd buggies over the years and got them driving reasonable for my level but a much heavier 4wd machine is a different kettle of fish it seems. Bajadre I do love a bit of countersteer!!

took the hyper Vs out a run today with some tarmac tyres on for a blast and I have never seen understeer quite like it, it was the same on on grass but I thought it might have been the big knobbly badland style tyres I was running but it’s the same on tarmac, I wound rear preload full on and front preload full off but I still can’t get any steering on power is terriable and off power is just about manageable, my only hope is to break the rear free with a blip of throttle. Anyone got experience with this car? I’m guessing some toe out might help up front and diff oils but I have no idea where to start with what weight to use where. Any suggestions much appreciated