Chris C

Radix 6- Tip for removing gear box covers to access front and rear diffs Apparently you dont have to totally take off the hinge pin covers (the plastic cover and red alloy holder) to have space to take the gearbox cover out "About the diff covers, it's enough to make them loose (hinge pin covers) - you do not need to take it off all the way down. I usually make like 3 mm gap as much as you can, not to make the arms come off. Luke, Team Corally Service Department" Will see if that works next time....

522 wheel glue on order. Shame neither Xmas nor Birthday are that close - will have to justify as post Covid treat or see if anyone on the forum wants to buy my vintage Tamiya Bigwig. Thanks for all your help!

Did you go for the XTR shock tower (C-00180-674), upgraded hinge pins, steering deck, and upper arm holder as well. Roughly how much did it set you back? Tried gear mesh and was able to wind a sheet of paper in between the gears - it wasnt torn when i took it out again but it wasnt loose enough that i could just slide the paper out.... I noticed with the diffs there is no interaction between front and rear when i spin the F or R wheel by hand, as if centre diff isnt doing much. Need to turn a bit more quickly and then suddenly the centre diff "slips/grinds" into action. I have a mix of factory (50k..) plus a dollop of 200k so not quite the 300k you're running at but i might thicken it up once ive used for a while. (Not sure the video of my experiment amounts to much but it's there for comparison) Let me know if you think there's anything more worth tweaking. I wouldnt be so particular with a cheaper less powerful model but this is some serious bit of kit and wouldnt take much to strip gear teeth if something isnt right. Skid plates fitted and Hard springs on order (if i keep going I'll have justify to the Mrs 😉 ) 543031412_Radix6_TestingWheelsDiffsByHand.mp4

It does sound like it's grinding a bit but if similar to yours then prob okay and just needs running in. I did slap on some extra grease in the gearboxes to the outside of the F&R diff gears where those meet the smaller gears to the driveshafts. I didnt add any more grease to the motor pinion and centre diff gear though-should I? (I was under the impression from other brushed models that these models often arent lubricated but maybe that's metal pinion to plastic spur gear?) I'll see how i go with an outdoor run but will be careful of any front end knocks. Irritating as it seems i have the latest revision of the Radix (latest esc with those additional capacitors) but delicate front end. Thanks for posting the flowchart- I couldnt access the link to the C-00180-911 kit (doesnt seem to be listed on Corally website)

Thanks Darren As per PM, i wasnt expecting the Radix to bottom out from a 30cm drop but as you say it's more racing focussed than outright basher. I can see now why those TuneItHoonIt skid plates are popular😁 Will get on and order the new springs, especially as Team Corally support mentioned the latest revision has shorter springs on the front (details below). Will weigh up some of those other upgrades you suggested. Have now hopefully sorted all the Diff and Shock Oil levels but boy those gears are still pretty noisy. Video below to show- is more grease required somewhere, or are yours much the same? Cheers Chris ps Nice parcel arrived this morning- will be bolting those on later! Radix6_DryRun_NoisyGears2_CapPackOnESCLead.mp4 RADIX 6 SPRING OPTIONS (& part nos) Radix6 got revised front springs. Stock in the car You can find C-00180-401 (70mm medium). We did a revision for the longer option (75-77mm) for a bigger ride height and more setup option. Below You You can see whole range of springs for Radix. Radix6 - Front Springs:Hard: C-00180-628 (75-77mm)Medium: C-00180-401 (70mm), and new revised longer one C-00180-627 (75-77mm)Soft: C-00180-626 (75-77mm) Radix6 - Rear Springs:Hard: C-00180-291 (84-86mm)Medium: C-00180-290 (84-86mm)Soft: C-00180-289 (84-86mm)

Evening All I've joined the club and got myself the Radix6. First 1/8 proper buggy to go with my resurrected Tamiya Bigwig from my 'yoof'. (Was feeling a bit jealous of my boys and their big 1/10 FTX Carnages). Arrived today and been checking the diff & shock oils as suggested by Darren (got my skid plates on order)- centre and rear diffs very low but shocks fine. Just a pig to get the F&R differential covers off so ended up taking off the plastic and red alloy plates that hold the suspension axles/arms. Any alternatives ? I have noticed the ride height is very low (esp front) and adjusting the spring collar isnt making much of a difference. Front seems to bottom out. Suspension travel is less than the target measurements in the manual. Has anyone had this problem and got a suitable fix? Bit early to be thinking upgrades... but if on a budget which upgrades would people recommend (and in what order of priority). To be fair I'm not likely to go wild with skateboard park bashing & crazy jumps... just general fun - dirt tracks, forest trails, playing fields etc (that the Carnages can also do without breaking) Thanks all Chris