incognito

You want to take it from glow plug. Select on your temp gun show hottest reading if it has that feature and get it as close to the glow plug (pointing down where you insert the glow starter) as you can.

Doesn't really look like a tuned pipe to me.

Your best bet would be to work out on various computer programs which point the fuel entering would be preferable and just ajust the crankshaft itself slightly rather than faffing about with a ajustable crankcase which would (assuming it would work) be far too complex. Anyway, you will have to have access to some seriously good mills to be able to produce the piston and liners. The tolerances need to be fantastically close and you will also need access to a hard chroming machine. Honestly, I think making your own engine is abit too ambitious. Good luck either way. (Sorry if this post makes no sence, its late and I'm tired)

Three good points there

Well if its in tank that indicates its taking the temperature from a different place which would effect the reading. Also water is reflective which can effect the reading of infrared temperature gauges.

Depends on which one you get. I think you can take a guess at which one is going to be more accurate, a

Coincidentally I do actally use GT85 myself, but so few people use it and so many have WD40 I just say that instead. Either way I don't use it to lube the bearings, just to flush them out. I do agree with you that oil lubes can combine with dirt and eventually start damaging bearings although I don't consider the GT85s lube alone to be enough for these bearings. If you don't want to clean the bearings that often use grease rather than oil.

What casing is this you speak of? Anyway to clean bearings I... 1. Remove the seal with a needle or small sharp hobby knife, from inside / inner diameter, peel the seal off. Some seals are hard to open, so don't force it... Just move on. 2. Once the seals are off, soak all the bearings and seals in WD-40 (Or similar) for 20 minutes. You can stir them... and see the dirt and stuff float out of them. 3. Spray each of the bearings with nitro cleaner or WD-40 for clean up. 4. Put each bearing on tissue so all liquids are gone. 5. Lube them back up. I use serpent bearing lube for mine, but any bearing oil should do the job. If you don't want to clean or lube your bearings up that often try using bearing grease like the stuff that hudy offers which should last longer. 6. Clean the seals, (flatten them if they are slightly bent from where you removed them) and close the seals by pressing it it back in place with your fingers. It's done.

I had that problem, in the end I stuck a screw driver through the exhast through to the boost port of the liner and twisted the flywheel until it was raised enough for me to use a different screw driver to prize it off at the top (the TT.21 has a lip unlike most other engines). I probably wouldn't have done that though had I not been A. desperate and B. replacing the P&L anyway so I didn't care if I damaged either of them. Try heating the engine casing up with a hair drier or heat gun to see if that helps.

I use sanwa servos, never had a problem with them. Although, I don't know about spending

I'm not refuting that the 5.9cc engine will produce more torque, I'm just making the point that its unwise to compare one engine to another by the claimed hp figure as they are nearly always inaccurate and its not the only factor that makes a good engine.

Don't believe the claimed outputs that manufacturers stamp on their engines. The only way to compare the power of 2 engines is to run them both under the same conditions on the same dyno. Anyway, lets say these claimed figures are accurate. What you really want in a engine is a good smooth power band over a large RPM scale. Its no good a engine making 5hp if its only between 15,000 and 15,050rpm. Also, there is no mention on torque which is what you really want with a massive truck like that new savage.

You've got it the wrong way around, you have to do well against good drivers (win some events, get noticed basically) and then you may be approached. They (companies) don't just sponsor random people. And if your budget is holding you back, don't think that getting sponsored will help that. It is abit of a myth that sponsored drivers get stuff thrown at them to use, the vast majority of the time it is just a discount, and in some cases that will make it harder for you to do well as you are forced to use a certain manufacturers products, which may not be the best anyway. You will also be expected to travel all over to take part in events, which will drive up the cost even more.

I would do my very best to avoid running these engines at anything less than 200F. At below that the piston and liner wouldn't have expanded properly causing excessive wear and you're not going to get the best out of the engine either. I would start to feel uncomfortable with anything over 270F but in this climate aslong as you have tuned it properly you shouldn't need to worry about it running too hot.

You need to oil any air filter before you use it.

He has some though, I'm not suggesting he should buy some, just to use what he already has.

Yeah, it has nitro in it but it has alot more oil than car fuel (Around 22% compared to 8-12% found in car fuel). So your car will either have little performance or will be damaged by you leaning it too much to try to clear the excess oil.

It will be impossible to get a good tune with it. Just throw it away and use the OD's.

If its done professionally, a big difference.

Lot of confused people in this thread reguarding how nitro engines are cooled. Smithy has the right idea, nitromethane does cool the engine. When the the inlet and exhaust ports are open the exhaust gasses and new unburnt fuel flows through the combustion chamber cooling the engine through evaporation of the nitromethane. The oil in the fuel is there to prevent friction between the piston and liner and to lubricate the bearings and conrod bushings and doesn't cool the engine so much as prevents it from heating up from friction. I quote from wikipedia: " The high heat of vaporisation of 0.56 MJ/kg together with the high fuel flow provides significant cooling of the incoming charge (about twice that of methanol), resulting in reasonably low temperatures. " Snowblind, my TT21 rusted after about that length of time aswell, their crankshafts are quite susceptible to rusting. I just used the dremel rust attachment to take it off and its still going strong today.

There is absolutely no nitrous oxide in the fuel that our engines use and for the most commonly used fuels (16-25% nitromethane) the main ingredient is methanol. And I don't get how a supercharger would work on a multi cylinder 2 stroke engine, surely the princible is the same no matter how many cylinders.

I have a Mirage failsafe if your interested. Only been used once or twice onroad and is in excellent condition. Comes with the original card backing with the instructions on. I'll post a couple of pictures tomorrow if you like. Its this one.

Same here, I have my own espresso maker which should help Anyone else planning on watching it live? Last time I tried that I fell asleep just before the race started and I over slept and missed the start of the repeat

Yep, I have a wolfpack radicals fusion. Just email him. ([email protected]). Expect to pay around