babylon

Totally agree, And what ever shop you find it cheapest at, Give them your business, Don't give Modelsport a second bite at the apple because they don't Google search, or want to be competitive, It's not down to the customer to tell the retailer he is not competitive, A firm that's been in the business as long as Modelsport has will know if they are or not. Off to work now, I hate having to work for a living.

That's not what this thread is about, My comment is about using Modelsport as a Price reference. And said it before, Don't in anyway agree with price matching, If they can't give me the best price straight off, why should I penalise the shop that dose by giving Modelsport the the opportunity to price match, If Micky Mouse Models are selling a car for

As much as I don't like Traxxas pricing which is a bit OTT on some things, I think there is another more simple answer, When the internet first took off, Modelsport was the place to go, You new that they would have the car, with a good picture and the lowest price without having to look around the net, Ho how things have changed. I was looking around DMS Racings website and came across This, Being a bit slow off the mark, This was a new one to me, So off to Modelsport to check out the pictures, And what do I find This, 25 quid difference in price is a lot, Dms also had This, And Modelsport had This, A whopping 45 quid dearer. Maybe they have none in stock, But the Brushless Revo for [url=http://www.storacingproducts.com/traxxas-e-revo-brushless.html]

Have a couple of CRT's, And if you do already have the Alloy braces then you don't need to upgrade anything(Unless you wont to), They are bomb proof, And it will be a while before you break anything, If at all.

5000 mAh Hardcases are back in stock.

Two of them are not an extra few quid, They are an extra 14 quid, Don't forget postage goes up as well.

I think you can bind using the binding cable or something,seems to be the same as

Well that's a bummer, It was only -213 when I ordered my Turnigy's on the 21st February, And I still never made it into this delivery lottery

Try unplugging one of your servos and plugging your battery pack into channel 1 or 2 on the RX, I cannot see a a battery pack being the problem, No smoke with the energizers is because they don't have the same grunt as a stick pack, Does the smoke actually come out of 1 or both the servos.

I was in the same boat a few weeks ago, wanted to convert my truggy for as little as possible, Now some things you can't do anything about but if you can use a few tools and look around the shed you can save a fair bit. 4 of These for 70 quid or the others suggested, No good hobby shops near me so I made the battery trays out some draws from a toolbox.The motor mount and ESC holder for my truggy was

I Know it's late, I'll go to bed in a minute, But a quick question Were does the 4.2v I keep hearing come from, I thought that Lipo cells were 3.7v which is were we get 2x is 7.4v,3x is 11.1 and so on.

Not very Awesome at all (Period).

I used to use a cricket bag Was about 18 quid from Argoos.

If I read that right, Traxxas want an extra 30 quid for the 2.4, Which means they are pretty much charging retail price for it, Lets be conservative and say the stuff they take out, i.e. the 27mhz receiver and transmitter is worth say 25 quid, well that's

The funny thing with Tamiya's is that they have always been popular but have always been overpriced for what you get, Like many people my first car was the Hornet, Got it for my twelve or thirteenth birthday, So 82 or 83, But even back then for the car,Techniplus radio,GT Firefly charger and one battery cost 135 quid , Even now as you look through there range, Unless it's the one off top spec, They still cannot bring themselves to give you alloy shocks . And I know why the Tamiya Astute's are so dear, Cos within a few days, Anyone that ever bought one would have stuck each and every individual part to the inside of there toilet just so they could dump on it at least once a day, In my humble opinion it was and still is the worst car ever made, Should have took it back to the shop as not being fit for purpose, How Tamiya had the nerve or the front to put that thing into production, or how it ever passed quality control I will never know, That car alone had the power to send any other model company to wall, and it would have been well deserved, Shows how respected Tamiya are, But they used up all there get out of jail free cards with that one.

one thing you can check, I had a brand new dm28 that kept losing it's tune and really getting on my t*ts, Until I noticed that the vibrations from the engine were coursing the low speed needle to screw itself in and lean it out.

So they say.

I never said anywhere or in any contexts that you slagged of the KM or Nitrotek, I said you slagged of a car based on reputation and word off mouth, Only in the next breath to recommend a KM and ShanQi that not five minutes ago had the same reputation, And then to recommend a Smartech that was sold by a company we are told to stay away from cos there cars are crap and who now sell the XRC,Probably based on what you read and not what you know, I could now turn round and say don't touch the KM with bendy barge pole cos it's complete shoot, You can then argue it's not, but I win by default because I have one and maintain it and can tell you the exact problems I have with it and not just the generic ones that get talked about(It's not by the way). I would be wrong to come on here and tell you that the MCD RR is shoot and this and that will break and start saving for something better and try to argue the fact, Even though that's what I seem to read about more and more, Because I have never had one. Yes I have seen a XRC and the first thing the little boys dad said to me was that he had to buy a new steering servo for it after the first run, But I never told him that I herd it was **** and a complete wast of money because I didn't really know, Maybe I lied and maybe I didn't, But I said it was a good car at which point he walked off onto the motorbike track I go to and run it around for the next couple of hours with no trouble which they seemed to enjoy, But me telling him it's **** would have added nothing to the enjoyment of the day. I never told anyone or anybody that there Marder was poo, I gave my opinion of the Marder based on the fact thet I have had one and I listed my problems with it Here It wasn't based on what I had read about or from sticking my finger in one. And you think me finding you slagging off someone's new toy as unacceptable as taking the moral high ground is a bad thing, Having morals is not something I will apologise for, Well lets see, Maybe Manninagh is a 40 year old who will come back here and think I'm over sensitive, Or maybe he's a younge teen who has just had he's bubble burst and never to be seen around here again. But at least you was honest.

Why not, It's no skin off your nose, You can give him information about his problem and things to look out for and leave it at that, But Nothing is gained what so ever telling him his car is cack. So you've not had one then, The usual forum disease of saying something is pants because other people say it is,Just like people who have never had A Hyper 7 always recommend it on forums,Cos everyone else does, And you honestly have to do more than just see one in the flesh to be able to comment on Durability. Well of coarse the problem is with the car, That's why he's here asking.

Maybe some will find my next comments a bit hairy fairy, But I will say that the two previous replys by Mrp and Nitroholic to be, well for a better word "Unacceptable" or just plain mean. He told us that he was a novice and that he had a problem with his engine, He told us that he had an XRC-2, Now you may have had one or you may not, I have not so will not comment, But I do know what most people feel about it whether they have had one or not, But at the end of the day this is what he has. Now my problem is that he was given an answer which is all well and good, but did it really need to be followed up with a description of how **** he's car is, Some cannot afford the Baja's or MCD's of this world or just don't won't to spend that much money, But people come to forums for help and advice, but is it really constructive to tell someone new to the hobby how cr*p the car they just bought is and . Now nobody likes to hear that said about something they have just bought be it true or not,I wouldn't like it and I don't think many would, But it is just not constructive or helpful in anyway what so ever, He will now go away from here thinking "I've just wasted all my money and bought a bag of poo". Maybe it will break as soon as he gives it some welly, But then again maybe it won't, So lets give help and advice when asked for, because what was offered in them two replys was of no use to man or beast and just helped to put someone new to the hobby on a big downer and possibly never to come back here.

To be honest, This is the sort of thing you make in the shed out of your old spare parts and a fairy liquid bottle on a snowy evening so you can have a laugh during the few days of snow, Not something the pay good money for, Well that's just me.

Just got in from work,Was having a little surf and found myself at Argoos, Well we say they are all the same so thought I would try and get the definitive answer, Does or can this or any of these Engine bolt into a car,Has anyone tried or had a look.

Notice the promotional shots have different rated rear springs which is unusual for promotional pictures, Are yours red.

Blooming hell it's late, Or is that early, Anyway I gave it a very short run in a car park today(Yesterday) and being my first brushless I had no idea what to expect, Well I have a Kyosho MP 7.5 with an RB Worlds in, But nothing can prepare you for the shear torque of brushless, I know that my centre diff oil is no were near thick enough, But it still managed to lift the front up till the wing had touch down, I'll put thicker oil in but I'll have to pull in the punch a bit. It's the 80Amp version, I'm only gonna be buying the 2 cell hardcase battery's and running 4 cell so no need for the 150Amp.It worked out at 111 quid with EMS delivery from RC-Fans88(Price drops when you register)they posted within 48 hours but had to email for tracking number, Emailed a couple of time just before I went to bed at about 1am(so 9am there end)and had reply within 2 hours both times, Parcel marked as 'Toy Parts at $20', Would definitely use again. I needed a nice bit of alloy for the motor mount and ended up cutting the fins off an old Pentium 4 heatsink, The diff mount on the CRT is in 2 parts with a small 10mm bottom part, So I just had the square section for the motor with a leg coming of that took the place of the section removed, drilled 2 holes and put original screws back and drilled one more hole in the chassis and into mount at the end, solid as a rock(And square amazingly), I just couldn't bring myself to spend another 35 quid on a little motor mount. I made the battery cases out of the sliding draws of a Stanley Tool a Bit box, They had a ridge all the way round the middle that when I cut left a box exactly the same hight and width as a Hardcase, One draw did both so there was already a small ridge at ever end that held the battery so just had to add the small black servo block you see at the other, Again not prepared to spend 30 or 40 quid on 1 or 2 plastic box's, The straps I made out of the shoulder strap you never use from that Laptop Bag you never use and just got her in doors to sow on the velcro, Again another 6 quid saved. A quick question about the battery's, I've got a lot of work coming up so not gonna get out for a bit, Do I charge them up and leave them, and my garage is cold so should I leave them in doors.

Been at it for a good few hours on and off over the last couple of week, Cos as you can see, I don't like to buy anything if there is the remotest chance that I can make it. Will find a car park tomorrow if I get the chance to see how it go's.