Steve-O2021

Is there any alternative to green slime?? £10 seems alot of money for a tiny amount of the stuff lol!!

Thanks, my next question is what o ring material is best for a nitro engine? Nitrile of viton? Thanks

Thanks for the tips Is the starter shaft supposed to have a o ring on that groove in the image

Thanks 👍 Quite a basic test, blocked the exhaust port and carb port then put it in the sink and blew through some pipe connected to the fuel inlet by mouth and looked for bubbles lol What would a more involved test be? Thanks

Did a leak test on my K5.9 and found a leak at the rear (most likely due to a missing bolt lol...) Noticed there was also air coming from the front bearing but I read this is OK as long as you don't have splattering out around the flywheel / clutch area as the oil from the fuel creates a seal here. Also what's the stock setting for the Mid needle? I read flush but this needle has 4 holes in it, do you line it up with the HSN inlet hole? Thanks

Anyone know the stock LSN setting for the K5.9? Is it flush with the actual carb slide (Like on a Traxxas 3.3) or is it flush with the bit that bolts onto the carb slide that the servo connects to? Thanks

Thanks, is one of them temp guns with a laser ok to use, got one from Aldi years ago 👍 Also do you just aim it at the glow plug for the temp rating? Thanks

Is it right that if you Pinch the fuel line and you - Instantly cut out = your LSN is to Lean Keep running for over 6 seconds = your too rich Engine RPM starts to climb after 2 or 3 seconds and you cut out and engine dies around the 4 or 5 seconds mark = your in a good LSN spot?

New Glow Plug seemed to help but don't know if it's too rich or not. Seems to splat alot out the exhaust

It's Alive!!! It's quite a fast little thing

Starts and idles just applying throttle kills it instantly. Tried resetting it back to stock settings I'm going to try a new plug next Could even be a carb leak ? It's a Traxxas Jato 3.3 it has lots of compression (had a pull start fitted instead of the EZ Start)

Pull start blister......

Savage XL arrived 😎

Looking for some nitro fuel but haven't bought any for 15 odd years or more lol The only brand I can really see forsale is by OptiFuel Is this the goto brand for nitro fuel in the UK? Thanks

Nice thanks all. What percentage nitro fuel would you run it on? 20%?? Also how long does Nitro Fuel last? I have some in the garage but it must be 15 - 20 years old now lol

I like Large scale RC and always wanted a Savage so might have went and bought a HPI Savage XL K5.9 Is this going to be a nightmare or will I have fun? Watching Kev Talbots video of it he was happy and smiling which apparently isn't something he usually does with nitros. hearing it shift through the 3 speed gears sounds nice as well 🙂 Have I made a mistake??? Lol

Once you go LiPo you won't go back

More Vortex footage

Took the HSP 1/8th Crawler to the forest and gave it a dip in the river. Them rocks were slippy as hell. Oh and they are not my legs lol. The waterproof servos from Ali Express are amazing for the price and really are waterproof 🙂 Also gave the FTX VORTEX a little blast (Ignore the beeping, the esc sends a warning to the transmitter when the batteries get low but they aren't flat it's just the voltage dip on acceleration from the cheap cells activating the warning, just need a replacement pack of similar size from CNHL but better specs 🙂

Cool got the Vorza ones fitted now so hopefully sorted 🙂

Yea, was going to do that as well but prefered the look of the battery still in the body / cage but still as far Forward as possible. What I did was mount the receiver and esc at the rear and then flip the front Electronics mount upside down as it gave more clearance for the pack. To insert the pack I slide it in through the front window towards the rear and then slide it forward to the front. I use the CNHL 2S Packs (4900mah I think) Here's the extension kit I used Runup 10pcs Stainless Steel Bar Link 324mm Wheelbase 5mm Handlebar Set for Axial SCX10 II 90046 1/10 RC Crawler Car https://amzn.eu/d/7XePAOx I used the longest on the rear lower and the stock lower links replaced the shorter top links. Also undone the ends on the stock links and added a (i think an M4) nut to each end which allowed me to adjust and lock the length Then used the 3rd longest on the front to just add a little extra to the front

Drive train play reduced Before - After Only play left now I see is mainly in the wheel Hex / Pin

Here's my mods so far 🙂 Dremeled down the steering knuckle for more turn Nice strong servo 🙂 Electronics relocated to the rear Battery mounted to the front wheelbase extended drilled and tapped the diff gears to lock the shafts inplace Underdrive mod to rear diff Huge improvements overall no more rolling over backwards going up things and much better turning 🙂