Malachite

I am looking to purchase a Vantage 2 for my son and wanted to know what I would need to upgrade to make it brushless, once he is used to it. I bought myself a Zorro a couple of years ago and just purchased a 3650 brushless motor and 60a esc from banggood. Is that all I would need to do?

How can I stop my Zorro rolling at high speed? I have the original Zorro (not Torro), not the new one, but I run it brushless on 2S. I've read that wider wheels may help, but which ones?

I have recently upgraded my Zorro to brushless. It is quite rapid and a lot of fun but it seems to spend more time on its roof than its wheels. I have read somewhere that somebdy put wider wheels on it, to improve handling and stability. Is this straightforward or will it require some additional modifications? TIA

Just popped a 3650 - 3900Kv brushless motor into my Zorro but the factory fit heatsink from the brushed motor is fractionally too big..... Do I need a heatsink with a brushless motor?

Thanks for the advice.

So I have finally got my Zorro and having loads of fun with it. After the hell that has been the lad's Phantom, I have actually managed to get a full battery's worth of play time on the Zorro without anything breaking....... This is a first. I went for the brushed version initially, as it was a gift from my mum but I have a brushless motor and ESC arriving any day now, from Banggood. What I would like to know is, what is the aluminium upgrade kit that I need for the Zorro or what Chinese equivalent car do I need to search for on Banggood. TIA.

Ignore post. User error. The battery compartment was just very difficult to open 😕

Just received my Zorro from Time Tunnel and it has come with an Etronix controller but I can't see how to access the battery compartment. There appears to be a slot for my finger nail but it doesn't pull up or slide. I am also seeing some Etronix controllers require a separate battery box but no mention of this when I ordered it.......

I've decided on the Zorro, purely down to its look. I also couldn't resist and have ordered a cheap brushless combo from Banggood.........!

I think the grub screw issue was only the cause this time. The first two strippings of cogs, the grub screw was tight.

My boy is running his Phantom XT as stock but with 2S LiPo, which I have seen many people doing on YouTube. We seem to keep stripping the pinion and gear. He only got it in June and we have replaced them both 3 times. Although i think the latest was because the grub screw came out of the pinion (assumed lost) and when I did a new run with a replacement screw, the gear shredded in seconds so I am guessing the grub screw was the cause. Thinking about a future, minor brushless upgrade but worried about the pinion and gear not lasting 5 minutes with that sort of power.

Looking for something relatively inexpensive so I can join the boy when he takes his Phantom out. I like the look of both the Outlaw and the Zorro and can get them both for just over £100 without battery and charger (which I don't need). Are they both equally straight-forward to upgrade to brushless later on, if that's what I decide to do? And I assume they will both run 2S LiPo out of the box...... TIA

Dead motor! Luckily I have a spare. Slightly cheaper than a new ESC 🙂 Finally, a little lady luck!

Would I need to replace like-for-like or are there better, cheaper options?

It was fresh off the charger!

First time I have used the car for a week or so but it has a fully charged battery. Ran for about 20 seconds and then just stopped. Steering works but absolutley zero motor activity, not even a sound. The car also doesn't beep now when I turn it on but the red light on the ESC comes on when I send a command from the controller (steering or forward/reverse). I guess the things to try are: Voltage from the ESC and if that is normal, try the spare motor I have........? What should the correct voltage be from the ESC?

Until the first big crash...... watch this space 🤣

After purchasing my first ever RC car for my 7 year-old, only 6 weeks ago, a 2nd-hand, "hardly used" Maverick Phantom, I can finally say that the car feels like it runs like it should.....! I have replaced the pinion and gear twice - Probably a mixture of poor meshing, terrible driving practices and running it on 2S LiPo when it isn't LiPo compatible. I have replaced the wheels - Daddy's terrible driving. And finally, I have just replaced the insides of the rear differential - 3 WD just wasn't cutting it for me. Also the proud owner of a really nice ammo case to keep those LiPos safe. The car now runs a lot quieter and a lot smoother. And it now rolls and flips, which it never did before 🤣 Its been a quick learning curve but I think I have a good idea of how this **** works now! Just got to decide on what car I want now!!! A big thanks to those of you that have sent plenty of advice my way. You know who you are!

Thanks for that but on the Phantom it isn't really possible to get in there with a piece of paper, without then disturbing the gearing again when putting casings on and heatsink

Yes. I greased up both the inside of the diff and the outer diff cogs but not the pinion and gear obviously, as one is plastic.

I have just replaced the contents of my diff and the pinion and gear cogs. All went rather well considering it was my first time dismantling a diff. After meshing up, it sounded sweet. I have just taken it out for a 10 minute run and now there is a clicking sound coming from the gears and some roughness appearing on the pinion 😞 Any ideas welcome. Just added photo fo the mesh. Is gap too big?

On the diagram, the diff is part 150007 but at the front it looks like an exploded version of the same diff and it has the part number 150008 which is same as link you posted so this is obviously the internal parts. Thank you so much for this. Now to take it apart.......!

The external pinion/gear on the diff look fine. If it is something inside, are there parts to replace or am I just as well to replace whole diff?

A strange problem has manifested in my Maverick Phantom. The rear wheels don't always accelerate at the same speed as the front wheels. When I lift the car off the ground and accelerate, the front wheels respond instantly but the rear wheels are about a 1/2 second slower to respond and even then, one wheel starts to move before the other. When I test the differential on the front by moving one of the wheels, the other wheel moves in the opposite direction but when I do this with the back wheels, there isn't as much resistance and the other wheel doesn't always move the opposite direction. In fact, sometimes, it doesn't move at all. I am guessing there is an issue in the differential so my first question is; what is it likely to be and secondly, can I dismantle the diff and repair it? MTIA