Douge one
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Posts posted by Douge one
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On 20/10/2023 at 21:50, troy45 said:
I’ve taken the plunge and got hold of the CEN Puma bodyshell to fit my WR8 flux.
Had bought the Subaru shell but never got round to sorting the body mounts so that’s going on eBay now plus the gold wheels.
Shell seems pretty robust, I was concerned it would be flimsy like some of the cheap shells I bought for my now sold RS4-Sport but seems decent. Is supplied with graphics and body furniture but not fitted.
Reviews of the CEN car flagged issues with the bodyshell fouling/tucking under the rear wheels so need to check what the fix is for that and sort body mounts etc.
Sorry this won’t be a quick job for me but hope to post updates when I’ve finally got round to it.
Bodyshel fouling under rear wheels was caused by body posts flexing not by body itself, CEN now including like rear bumper/body support as a fix.
Nice to see there's no body posts holes drilled (I couldn't tell from Modelsport pictures) . looks good 👍
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On 05/09/2023 at 18:34, Renji1990 said:
cars a month old ...... checked bearings and diffs and there all good and corrct level ... it rolls smooth so nothing is binding
so it's hobbywing ESC you can program it using small button next to on off switch, check your manual, should show you how to change settings
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Do you have old wr8 with castle electronics or hobbywing combo like in last 3 releases?
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Looks like CEN made a worthy contender for wr8, not to mention that beautiful shell that should fit Wr8 just like wheels do
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16 minutes ago, Bajadre said:
good upload wolfie and the reason for stand by mode is VTXs get red hot very fast with out a decent airflow etc which is fine in the air but on the ground nana 🤣 my drone disarmed is 25mw which is the current limit of the law over here atm if we fly together we need to use 25mw or we clash even on different channels when flying solo i bump it up to 400mw you can also hack the range on DJ googles upto 1200mw
With digital systems doesn't really matter how much power you output even on 25mW processor crunching bits of data all the time ( 100°C after 7 min on 25mW on a bench) so good fan it is a must.
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5km is way out of reach for 2.4 Ghz car radio ( radiolink range is around 600 meters and you can plug tbs crossfire module that will get you further or just use aircraft stick radio with crossfire.
Standard 5.8 Ghz vtx used in Fpv, even newest DJI system won't get you to 5 km on ground either as laws of physics are unbreakable read about fresnel zone basically any obstacle between vtx and googles will hinder signal that's why variable latency digital systems are best for ground vehicle as googles will ask vtx to re-send data to produce best picture while analog will start flashing picture roll etc. akin to 70s TV in bad weather ( it's possible to carry video signal further with LTE or 4g but latency will be to much to drive, other option is 1.2 analog but antennas are really fragile and big and I'm pretty sure illegal to use) . best you can get with modern gear is DJI o3 with new googles ( not cheap and you have to use drone flight controler or solder and program arudino to get higher power out of o3 and for Car you could get newest radiolink as it's only car radio that possible to use with ELRS ( or use with stick radio with ELRS if you not bother driving car with gimbals )
This run is with older DJI system and because of all obstacles I got car radio glitching and losing signal few times
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Everything what JonnyUK said. you can see on video steering rack hitting servo but it keeps pushing and expanding plastic springing thing in servo saver.
Unscrew servo saver , set steering trim on center in transmitter ( controller) , make sure steering rods are same length ( like in manual) , make sure wheels point straight and in this position mount servo saver back on
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37 minutes ago, straight_six said:
Not sure about over there, but here in my country they have partner shops. Maybe you can email them & ask.
Material is pretty thick & comes with mirrors & light buckets. The downside is perhaps the stickers dont stick that well
Thanks man 👍 we got online shop with those shells ( apparently they design all those shells, but they come with team c label and advert pics look same) unfortunately in UK they cost 40$.
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2 hours ago, straight_six said:
They are team C bodies.. you can check them out from https://www.teamcracing.net tamiya clone & pretty cheap too.. (about $20) 😃🙏
how do you buy from them?
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22 hours ago, bigbadbond said:
Hi @Kpowell911 I bought the skyrc S65 charger and used it on the weekend. I just wanted to ask, have you used the 'Lipo Storage' function? I tried it in order to charge a 2S lipo I had just used up 3.8v as I won't be using the battery for a couple of weeks. It charged both cells up to around 3.8v but then sat there for a while and seemed to idle around 3.7 - 3.8. I stopped it manually in the end. I was expecting it to end the charge when it hit 3.8 on each cell. Just wondered if you have used that function? Also should you always using the 'Lipo Balance CHG' function everytime as I noticed there was another function for 'Lipo Charge'. There wasn't much in the manual to explain what the difference was?
Thanks!
End of charge cycle is always like that when you storage charge or balance charge, it's related to often overlooked discharge capabilities of charger, when one cell reach desired voltage and other not yet, charger need to discharge full cell in order to top up other one, and they mostly use small resistors ( there's no space inside for bigger resistors) and change electricity into heat and thiscan take ages.
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19 hours ago, everclear1984 said:
Anybody? These are great, reliable batteries and I thought I was asking a reasonable price.
I got enough 2s packs but for some reason I keep checking ( hoping someone will buy them) I think I'll have them if they not longer than 143 mm and max 47 mm wide.
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Any chance you still have them?
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On 06/12/2022 at 21:10, JonnyUK said:
Seen as I seem to spend an extortionate amount on tyres for my high powered rc's, I decided to go down the budget route.
It might work out, might not. Trial and error though because most sellers don't give exact dimensions.
Anyway, these came today for the Hpi, I wanted some offroad rubber for it. £12 for all four with wheels.
They come in a choice of four colours and the plastic feels about as flexible as stock.
My original plan was to fit the tyres onto some stock rims but these actually fit and, even though they are wider, the offset is different. Luckily this means they fit and clear the bodyshell. The only thing I need to do is to move the power switch forward a bit.
I reckon there would be rubbing issues if I did fit the narrower front tyres onto oem rims.
Oem road wheels are 2.2 inch, these seem to be 2.1 inch so they would fit with a little stretch.
As you can see, the fronts are a bit wider and the rears wider still. Outer diameter is around 87mm versus the stock 80mm.
The outer track of each axle is roughly 1.5mm less.
They feel about as soft as the stock rubber, which I don't think are banded. I am doing the duct tape mod to band these new tyres, I don't want them ballooning loads and wrecking the body etc.
Also covering the air hole and might need to sand the plastic so that the glue has a key.
I reckon if I run it on 3s and on the 75% power setting I should get away with it.
I once bought those front tires in bulk from AliExpress for 2pounds a pair in old days when everyone was struggling to find any tires for wr8.I glued them on tarmac rims no problem, They ok on gravel, knobs survive maybe 15 2s pack and later I was using them bald on tarmac and power slide and drift for miles, hpi rubber is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better, and they balloon on 2s but I run fiesta body so was fine. Overall I'm happy and still use them them sometimes.
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22 hours ago, Fat Freddy said:
Somehow managed to miss this thread. What a great idea! Got me to thinking🤔…..
I have a TT02 that I’ve only ever really used a few times. Was supposed to be a speed runs project with a stupidly overpowered (for a relatively stock TT02), brushless system in it, but I’ve struggled to find anywhere long enough or flat enough for it to achieve its full potential.
It only needs to hit a pea sized bit of gravel at 35mph and it’s cartwheeling down the road before it’s really got going. (I got it to 38mph but that was on a public road on a quiet Sunday morning).
As you can see, (AA battery for scale), it has very little ground clearance in its current form.There’s a car park across road from me but it needs resurfacing and is covered in a generous dusting of gravel, so is useless for speed runs….. but ideal for bazzing about with a rally car?!?
Apparently its relatively easy to get extra ground clearance by flipping the suspension arms. I’m thinking a set of rally wheels, a new shell, and swap back to the silver can and I’m good to go?
Here's a good video how to get more ground clearance
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this may help you
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I know what you mean I still got one 3s pack I rarely use.
After I started to improvise simple tracks with cones or found places I can go around 3s would overheat after 10 max15 min of throttle, braking, steering, but premature drive train wear was worst. I aslo find only on few tracks I'm running out of revs on long straights so I finally stopped using 3s
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21 hours ago, JonnyUK said:
Well maybe going out today with the Impreza wasn't a good idea.
In these current high ambient temperatures I could get about 10-15 mins running until the esc thermal cut out would activate.
At first I thought it was lipo low voltage cut out but no, checking the cells showed plenty of charge left.
Couldn't feel any binding and the mesh is slack enough.
I did seem to loose the reverse function too for some reason, not that I tried it much.
Temp gun on the motor was about 50 deg C just after cut out (but I believe its not monitored by the esc) and the esc temp was about 42 deg C.
I though it seemed wrong but checking the manual once home shows the esc thermal cut out to be 105 degress F, so 40.5 C
The hot sun, hot wind, hot tarmac obviously wasn't ideal. It was still fun driving it in short bursts.
Running 3s lipo, stock gearing and I think the punch setting and motor timing are still stock, I think I will turn the punch down a bit and also adjust the motor timing down so it runs cooler and I don't wear out another brand new set of tarmac tyres after 2 battery packs!
I need to lower the breaking force too because it tries to stand on its nose.
I did a little video which I'll stick on here after I clip it.
*edit - no video sorry, file corrupted.
I don't know specs for new hobbywing combo that HPI uses in wr8 but older version with castle system manual was saying 3s for occasional use only, and yes it will overheat on 3s even in colder days.
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New max8 esc and motor coming as well 😉
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On 03/04/2022 at 23:25, JonnyUK said:
Thought I'd started a thread for this but seems that I hadn't 🤨
Anyways, never owned anything Hpi so figured I'd go for this one...
First little run out with it today and this thing is immense, the power delivery is something else.
Its a handful and next time I will find a larger area of tarmac to run it.
Well this is todays resulting road rash to the chassis from 'clean' tarmac
One crash into my little lads pushbike ended up snapping a front body post off at the bumper mounting, the zip ties came in handy or it would have been a short outing.
Also, I realised that I'd forgotten to take the tarmac tyres with us so had to use the off road/gravel tyres instead, here's the result after running 2x 3s lipos through it 😁
I'll make them last at least another 3 or 4 battery packs...maybe...
Managed to split the shell at the top of each front wheel arch so I need to do some gluing and re-enforcing before use it again.
No idea why Hpi decided to fit the bumper foam about 2 inches away from the shell, by the time contact is made with the foam the body has flexed loads and splits at its weakest point. I doubt theres a warranty claim possible ☹️
I will be fitting some foam which sits closer to the shell at the front and also at the rear and maybe make a strengthening plate for where the body posts screw to their mounts.
You know there's a WR8 thread in Rallying section? Or this tread is only for those that run bugeye body?
Wr8 was developed with Ford fiesta body that's why bumper is to short for Impreza.
Front body posts plate is known weakness you can reinforce yourself or get those
https://www.shapeways.com/product/6VZTW75ED/hpi-wr8-front-body-post-reinforcement-v1
Or this
https://www.shapeways.com/product/GN58E22SC/hpi-wr8-front-body-post-reinforcement-v4-low
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2 minutes ago, Cuiken said:
I was thinking something from the golden age of rally. Fiat 131 looks good.
Pretty sure landl have a shell. Just not sure if it would fit.
They do have it
https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/fiat-131-rally-body-wrc-painted-with-decals
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2 hours ago, JonnyUK said:
Thanks buddy.
No worries m8
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/parts/120036/wheels-tyres
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On 19/03/2022 at 21:36, JonnyUK said:
Probably resurrecting an old thread here but does anyone know the definite sizes of the tyre inner foams?
Its the new WR8 Subaru but same as the previous incarnation I believe.
Ideally I need to know the foam dimensions for both the road wheels and the off road wheels please.
Can't seem to find any mention of them on the Hpi website.
Thanks in advance 😁
I believe they both same outside diameter (85mm if I remember correctly).
And inside for onroad is 2.2inch
Gravel is 1.9 inside diameter.
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I don't know how is it in scale rc but in 1/1 cars aero package works when you go above 50mph if you go slower it's more of a penalty
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I tried gyro once but I felt I was robbed out of driving experience ( it wasn't me doing corrections and when I correct steering results was mixed so I unplugged it after few laps)
They might be useful for speed runs in overpowered rigs to keep them straight on launching or uneven surface 🤔
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Everything WR8
in Rallying
Posted
I've noticed them holes, they will be for side vents and mirrors, I don't see from this angle but probably rear wing aswell? I think RC driver was first to notice trimming body won't fix it