Douge one

I've noticed them holes, they will be for side vents and mirrors, I don't see from this angle but probably rear wing aswell? I think RC driver was first to notice trimming body won't fix it

Bodyshel fouling under rear wheels was caused by body posts flexing not by body itself, CEN now including like rear bumper/body support as a fix. Nice to see there's no body posts holes drilled (I couldn't tell from Modelsport pictures) . looks good 👍

so it's hobbywing ESC you can program it using small button next to on off switch, check your manual, should show you how to change settings

Do you have old wr8 with castle electronics or hobbywing combo like in last 3 releases?

Looks like CEN made a worthy contender for wr8, not to mention that beautiful shell that should fit Wr8 just like wheels do

With digital systems doesn't really matter how much power you output even on 25mW processor crunching bits of data all the time ( 100°C after 7 min on 25mW on a bench) so good fan it is a must.

5km is way out of reach for 2.4 Ghz car radio ( radiolink range is around 600 meters and you can plug tbs crossfire module that will get you further or just use aircraft stick radio with crossfire. Standard 5.8 Ghz vtx used in Fpv, even newest DJI system won't get you to 5 km on ground either as laws of physics are unbreakable read about fresnel zone basically any obstacle between vtx and googles will hinder signal that's why variable latency digital systems are best for ground vehicle as googles will ask vtx to re-send data to produce best picture while analog will start flashing picture roll etc. akin to 70s TV in bad weather ( it's possible to carry video signal further with LTE or 4g but latency will be to much to drive, other option is 1.2 analog but antennas are really fragile and big and I'm pretty sure illegal to use) . best you can get with modern gear is DJI o3 with new googles ( not cheap and you have to use drone flight controler or solder and program arudino to get higher power out of o3 and for Car you could get newest radiolink as it's only car radio that possible to use with ELRS ( or use with stick radio with ELRS if you not bother driving car with gimbals ) This run is with older DJI system and because of all obstacles I got car radio glitching and losing signal few times

Everything what JonnyUK said. you can see on video steering rack hitting servo but it keeps pushing and expanding plastic springing thing in servo saver. Unscrew servo saver , set steering trim on center in transmitter ( controller) , make sure steering rods are same length ( like in manual) , make sure wheels point straight and in this position mount servo saver back on

Thanks man 👍 we got online shop with those shells ( apparently they design all those shells, but they come with team c label and advert pics look same) unfortunately in UK they cost 40$. https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/celica-gt-four-190mm

how do you buy from them?

End of charge cycle is always like that when you storage charge or balance charge, it's related to often overlooked discharge capabilities of charger, when one cell reach desired voltage and other not yet, charger need to discharge full cell in order to top up other one, and they mostly use small resistors ( there's no space inside for bigger resistors) and change electricity into heat and thiscan take ages.

I got enough 2s packs but for some reason I keep checking ( hoping someone will buy them) I think I'll have them if they not longer than 143 mm and max 47 mm wide.

Any chance you still have them?

I once bought those front tires in bulk from AliExpress for 2pounds a pair in old days when everyone was struggling to find any tires for wr8.I glued them on tarmac rims no problem, They ok on gravel, knobs survive maybe 15 2s pack and later I was using them bald on tarmac and power slide and drift for miles, hpi rubber is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better, and they balloon on 2s but I run fiesta body so was fine. Overall I'm happy and still use them them sometimes.

Here's a good video how to get more ground clearance

this may help you https://oscarliang.com/fix-balance-plug-lipo-replace/

I know what you mean I still got one 3s pack I rarely use. After I started to improvise simple tracks with cones or found places I can go around 3s would overheat after 10 max15 min of throttle, braking, steering, but premature drive train wear was worst. I aslo find only on few tracks I'm running out of revs on long straights so I finally stopped using 3s

I don't know specs for new hobbywing combo that HPI uses in wr8 but older version with castle system manual was saying 3s for occasional use only, and yes it will overheat on 3s even in colder days.

New max8 esc and motor coming as well 😉

You know there's a WR8 thread in Rallying section? Or this tread is only for those that run bugeye body? Wr8 was developed with Ford fiesta body that's why bumper is to short for Impreza. Front body posts plate is known weakness you can reinforce yourself or get those https://www.shapeways.com/product/6VZTW75ED/hpi-wr8-front-body-post-reinforcement-v1 Or this https://www.shapeways.com/product/GN58E22SC/hpi-wr8-front-body-post-reinforcement-v4-low

They do have it https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/fiat-131-rally-body-wrc-painted-with-decals

No worries m8 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/parts/120036/wheels-tyres

I believe they both same outside diameter (85mm if I remember correctly). And inside for onroad is 2.2inch Gravel is 1.9 inside diameter.

I don't know how is it in scale rc but in 1/1 cars aero package works when you go above 50mph if you go slower it's more of a penalty

I tried gyro once but I felt I was robbed out of driving experience ( it wasn't me doing corrections and when I correct steering results was mixed so I unplugged it after few laps) They might be useful for speed runs in overpowered rigs to keep them straight on launching or uneven surface 🤔