Jump to content

freddieb

Members
  • Posts

    3
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hampshire, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

freddieb's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. Hi, thanks for the reply! The browning out issues is why I'm looking to make/buy a suitable power distabution board for the servos and ESC so the flight controler won't have to deal with the power supply and associated power surges from them. I've made and flown a couple of trainers (balsa and foam board) and feel comfortable flying those. I've not tried a low wing/warbird style yet but heard that they are not quite as stable and forgiving (and why i haven't made my mind up) but this is where I was hoping I could utilze the gyro and stablizer options to assist at a flick of a switch if needed. I've currently have foam board cub which I think I will test the set up on first as I'm used to it and don't mind crashing if the worst happens. Thank you for the links by the way!
  2. Hi All, I do a bit of FPV freestyle drone flying and made a couple of planes before but I've now decided I want to make a 1200mm-1500mm span traditional style plane (either cessna/trainer or warbird style, not made mind up yet!) but with FPV and all the data you can see and contol like you can with FPV/freestyle drones. It would also be nice to have the option to easily add stuff like head tracker, GPS, lights or retractable landing gear later on. I know the best thing to do would be to by a plane spacific FC but there a little pricey and as I already have drone FC that has a option to run 8 PPM chanels, I was hoping to use this as the flight controler. I have done a bit or research on it and it looks possible and have a good idea on how to make it work. My main struggle is coming up with a power distribution solution for the servos and ESC that doesn't look messy. Has anyone here attempeted this before or have any suggestions or examples on how to go about this? or am I really barking up the wrong tree? I'm fairly confident with a soldering iron so don't mind a bit of a challenge and also in case it's helpful, heres the gear I've already got that im hoping to use: Aocoda-RC F7 MINI speed 3-4S LIPO's Flysky FS-i6X transmitter Flysky FS-X6B Reciver ESC's and motors of verious kinds FPV cameras and VTX's of verious kinds Thanks in advance.
  3. freddieb

    EKayak

    Hi Guys! First time poster here. not sure if this is the right section for this sort of stuff so sorry if I've posted this in the wrong place. I've given myself a bit of an odd ball project of giving my inflatable kayak some power that's not too clumsy! I'm not looking the fly along more of just something to poodle along and make paddling easier on those lazy days! after looking around at options i worked out turning to rc models is the best route to go. List of parts I've got for it: 2 x thruster pods with 12-24V - 20A - 1000Kv brushless motors -(3-5kg thrust each) 2 x ESC 4-16V 30A Silicone cable - 16AWG digital servo tester my plan is to attach the thrusters to the two skegs/fins on the kayak and then have the ESC's, battery, etc in a waterproof box to put in the back. I will then use the servo tester as a throttle control. The photo is of the test setup. Used to be very much into RC when i was younger but sort of pulled out of it just as brushless setups became popular so not so clued up using them. My main concern is going to be the ESC to motor wires which are going to have to be approximately 1000mm. i know that these wires are meant to be as short as possible as the esc starts to get confused if the cables get to long. is this true? and how much do they get affected and will the cable i will be using to extend these wires (16AWG) be adequate for the job? Another problem is the battery. I'm not keen on using lipo's around water but not sure what would be a better alternative. I'm thinking a 12V gel battery. what are your thoughts on this? i haven't worked out what size/mah i should be looking at yet (looking a 20mins or more gentle run time hopefully) I'm also thinking of putting an on/off switch in so there's no messing around with plugs when in the water. Do i put this on the positive or native wire? Silly question i know but I've heard in places it's better to put it on the negative as it reduces surging or something. any insight on this, i would be interested to know. I know a lot of this is going to have to be trial and error as its not what the kit is meant to do but should be a bit of fun and might learn something in the process! Any insight to my queries or suggestions/advice will be welcome!
×
×
  • Create New...