MrPeaski

Don't quite know how to explain it correctly but, check the alignment of the ends of the driveshaft that popped out. They should be phased like the above picture

8x12x3.5 Assuming this is what you are looking for ☺️ Edit..... Balls, sorry didn't see that you'd found it!

Added some strip weight to the wheels today (about 75g each (too much?)) and also changed tyres to some Super Swamper copies. And finally got to go out and try out the recent changes to the suspension. It was a sunny but windy day so headed to the local beach Sorry about the wind noise! I think it did quite well. Must admit, its not easy trying to see where the holes etc are when trying to both watch where its going and keep it reasonably well framed.

So..... What do you think? Stock bumper with the bull bars chopped There's no LED in the spot lights yet (3 of the 4 fitted to the light bar failed ☹️), but I'll get them in soon

Just tried the stock rear bumper on the front. Mine has a 3d printed 'hoop' so I could remove the rear wheel mount, but still retain the body shell holding bit Fitted to the front Not sure that this works/looks any good, as the stock front bumper angles back towards the body. Simple enough to try so nothing lost

Might give this a bash with the stock mirrors, nice easy mod

I like that, maybe in a chrome finish (caustic soda and a lot of polishing) would add even more to it as it would match the grille. Could you lower the body posts by one hole to reduce the amount of the cut-out showing! Either way a tidy looking front end. Your mention of a stock rear bumper on the front has me reaching for my tools to see what it would look like

Looking nice there @Dag, the stock bumper looks totally out of place but I thing your Ebay one will look smart. Maybe need to trim the bottom off the front of the shell to tuck it in as close as possible? edit: there again looking at the link again, maybe not🙃

THIS is going to be interesting. And will make a big difference to its C O G. Will you be changing the bumpers? and doing something for the wheel arch inners

I posted on page 12, my process of fitting a set of GMade XD Aeration shocks. At the time I hadn't run the car with them but have done since and it made a world of difference. Part of this I think has to be that they are a bigger diameter body and so there is more oil in the system. The problem with this is that (as posted) they are a pain to fit and needed extra parts 3D printing to get them to work. This left the shock at a funny angle in relation to the mounts, the ended up wider at the top than at the bottom in a sort of wide 'V' shape, but they worked well anyway. I decided to revise the entire mounting tower, and in essence copied the aluminium mounts you can get (these retail for around £80) Using Fusion360, I was able to use a picture of the aluminium mount to create a copy, but the only real world dimensions I could use were the hole spacings that attach the mount to the rails. The rest was taken from the stock plastic mounts. I also had to make some cylindrical parts to fit the shock to the new mount The height of the top fixture is about the same as the stock mount, but angled back which follows the bottom mounting point better. It also means that the top of the shock, now sits further in so they are now parallel vertically The bodyshell also fits in about the same position as stock Stock shock position (taken from @everclear1984 build thread) Revised position Mount details Aaaand as with my previous faffing session, I won't be able to take the beast out for a test run yet 😒

Where did you get the tyres from @Jack Reacher and have you got a picture of the tooth cut on the foams? Be interesting to try that one out. I'm running the same tyres as @Stormbringer, but with the stock kit foams which are a bit wider than the ones that came with the tyres, but feel a bit softer.

I've been faffing with the suspension (again!!) with some 3D printed shock mounts. With a bit of luck, I'll be taking it out to see how things hold up. So I'll post pictures and findings soon.

Have a look at moving the actuator down closer to the centre of the servo horn. You only need a small amount of travel to change gear. It looks like the same servo that I (everybody?) am using and it is in the second hole from the centre. With the radio (Radiolinc RC6GS) set at 50% on the end stops, I get about 7mm of travel on the shifter rod which changes smoothly when running at any speed. If you change gear when stopped, it sometimes needs the car to move before clicking into place. Interesting to see which direction you've gone with the bodyshell

Mine was built exactly the same as you have to the build instructions, but probably just a quirk of my motor. It runs well as it is now so as long as your runs well I wouldn't worry about it I posted a YouTube link on page 13, showing how to program the Hobbywing 1080 and ran with the settings from it but eased up on the brake as yes, it is fierce!

The 6 channel will be the same, the grommet will get in the way. Main reason for eventually binning the telemetry was simply getting the wires through the cable seal. When I first had it set up, I hadn't got my lights fitted so was relatively easy. I now have 2 plugs in for lights, one that is simply on all the time (main front and rear lights) and one switched on/off from the transmitter, but space got really cramped in the seal and as much as 11/10 for geek factor, figured the car would never really be far enough away to pose a problem with running out of power, so pulled the telemetry. I had a strange motor running issue that I forgot to document at the time. Like yours it seemed to drive faster going backwards! I found out by strapping a Garmin wheel hub speed sensor to one of the wheels. Forwards it read something like 35mph (obviously un-calibrated) and in reverse 42mph. I swapped the wires around from the ESC and........ got the same! What I ended up doing was actually flipping the gear inside the axle pumpkin. The build manual shows the gear on the left, but mine are now on the right. Did the same experiment and forwards is now 42, reverse 35 👍

Awesome picture mate, looks like a 1:1 scale

@whitecitadel I had the same problem with my receiver. You can carefully pry open the case as its not glued or screwed together and take out the aerial grommets and cut them down by half as they're only a firm rubber. May also have rotated the receiver to fit in on one long edge. The hardest part for me was fitting the sealing grommet around the servo wires, especially due to the extras for lights and telemetry (which I discarded in the end). Smearing some shock oil on the grommet made things a bit easier. Think my steering servo is set around 60%, but using a longer than stock servo arm

I posted a video of my DC-1's first run and @Stormbringer mentioned that the drivetrain was a bit noisy compared to his and @Yrkoon due to the high spot. I live meshed it while the motor was running and it is a lot better now, but apart from a 1/18 scale FTX mini have nothing to compare it to. For the high spot itself, I wonder the gear itself is perfectly round, but the hole in the spur is a fraction oversize compared to its axle and no matter where we put it it will always have a high spot. I'm not about to pull it apart to check, but food for thought

In case it was missed (or I forgot to mention!), align the cut-out in the piston with the same in the circlip for maximum flow. ideally the printed piston should be a firm fit between the two circlips so as well as sanding the diameter (given the printing brim) the thickness may well need adjusting too.

Just for reference Hobbywing 1080 in stock at Modelsport https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-1080-80amp-wp-brushed-crawler-esc-407325 ☺️

@whitecitadelthey look really nice, but maybe a bit too open for the stock oil? Mine only has a single similarly sized notch. I think for these I used my original Ender 3 'buildtak' surface to print on instead of the glass i normally print on. If you haven't got one of those, maybe an increase in bed temp or resorting to gluestick will help. Also for anyone else reading this, can you actually download the file I attached? For some reason I can't. If its the same for everyone else I'll change it to a G-Drive link instead

@Jack Reacher No probs, I should have put it up when I mentioned them a bit further up so they're available for anyone to use.

Here is the STL file for the pistons that I created v4-piston.stl Google Drive link in case the above doesn't work https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fALKOG5gd_7vdFFxBHuc2na2oC8b67sY And in Cura theses are the settings I used to print them, it is a forcibly slow print due to the tiny size of the piston. QUALITY layer height = 0.08 initial layer height = 0.2 SHELL Wall line count = 8 outer wall wipe distance = 0.4 top layers = 5 bottom layers = 5 top/bottom pattern = concentric Z seam alignment = sharpest corner seam corner preference = hide seam INFILL Infill density = 100% MATERIAL printing temp = 200 (raise or lower to suit your best print with the filament you're using) Bed temp = 60 SPEED .... set these individually as listed and ignore the defaults that it tries to set Print speed = default (it should get greyed out with the next changes) Infill speed = 15mm/s wall speed = 15mm/s top/bottom speed = 15mm/s Travel speed speed = 15mm/s initial layer speed = 15mm/s initial layer print speed = 15mm/s initial layer travel speed = 100mm/s skirt/brim speed = 15mm/s TRAVEL Enable retraction = ticked Retraction Distance = 6mm Retraction Speed - 25mm/s combing mode = not in skin BUILD PLATE ADHESION Build plate adhesion - skirt Ignore any other settings and leave them as they are A single piston takes around 4 minutes. You may need to sand them to after printing to adjust the thickness so they are tight between the circlips on the shaft. The idea is to line the cutout with the openings in the clips to maximise flow.

Much thicker than what I had to use, but whatever make things smooth. Also seems that you didn't get the issue I had with the bearing being tight on one end of one bearing carrier, which is good