Joshua223

Hello all, Looking to replace the LRP engine on my truggy but I had lots of issues with fitment last time. I ended up shimming the engine mounts and cutting off the bottom of the pull starter for clearance because the engine would not fit! Now I’m investing time and money into this car I want to do it properly. Anyone know of taller engine mounts? Some for aftermarket engines would be perfect! The new engine also has a pull starter (only for bashing this one). Thanks in advance!

Brilliant, thankyou! I know you should do darkest colours first so thanks for letting me know it’ll be okay 👍

Hello all, Looking to paint a shell for my Kyosho ST-RR Evo 2 but need some advice. I like the idea of having a red shell with a black honeycomb pattern on the bonnet and at the back and black flames on either side (doors). I have honeycomb & flame masks but how do I do it? Logic says to apply the masks, paint it red, remove the masks and paint them black but obviously I should paint the dark colours first! Does anyone have any advice please? I don’t have the skills for airbrushing, only rattle cans unfortunately ☹️ Kindest regards, Joshua

Hello all, Can anyone recommend a tuned pipe for the Picco Rebel XL V2 (.25)? Ive looked at the Picco Pipeset PIC9396 EFRA 2166 but it seems that for .21 engines. Any help is appreciated! Joshua

If, by chance, the fuel line between the carb and the fuel tank ran a little too close to the exhaust, could that theoretically affect anything? All fuel lines were replaced and done one at a time to ensure that they all went in the same place, same length and same routing but I could swap the exhaust line and the fuel line routing over so that the fuel line isn’t running alongside the exhaust.

Thanks! Hopefully then a new conrod and gaskets should sort it out! Can’t wait to actually have fun with this car after all this! Tbh, troubleshooting and tinkering with the engines are why I’ve grown so fond of nitros! I don’t necessarily want something that just works, and love the maintenance that comes with them! I’m not going to lie, I was hoping that I’d actually get to run the car for more than a couple minutes before having to do this, but never mind eh?

So that could be the answer then? When the exhaust gets hot it could leak and lean itself out maybe?

I’m using a calibrated thermocouple to check engine temps to prevent possible errors or anomalies. When it’s cold, the exhaust gaskets weren’t leaking but I couldn’t test when hot without burning myself! It did shut down quickly by blocking the stinger though so I’m not too sure on that one, hence new gaskets needed too! It’s what’s caused that I’m wondering about... that might be a side effect of what’s happened? Or a cause? That’s why I’m here! Thanks all!

Be that as it may, it’s suitable for running in and is perfectly clean. I’ve replaced all fuel lines and checked for blockages or air leaks (non found unfortunately).

Hope this helps. I checked and there were no bubbles before or after the fuel filter either.

This is when warmed up, only blipping throttle but you can see it moves well and is nice and free! -Josh BB23D1B0-34E2-431F-A31C-DCE9C3B2BD9F.MP4

Hi there! Im using Optmix RTR 25 which has an oil content of 15%. The engine simply will not run any richer than this without flooding as soon as the throttle is opened even slightly (as you saw in the beginning of the video actually). Once it finally gets moving, it’s off the line pretty quick! Not silly fast because as I said both the low end and the high end needles are set rich. Oh, there is a fuel filter fitted! Even though it’s this rich, it still got very hot the first few times I ran it to break it in. As soon as the temps got too high, I shut the engine off and left the piston BDC. I’ve checked the clutch, brakes etc and everything is fine. The flywheel was also very tight but is now off due to the dismantle. Honestly once it had moved, it’d move off the line pretty quick. Carb is currently off as the engine is dismantled and it’s all clean, nothing sticking etc and I’d already checked the servos to make sure they worked correctly and weren’t touching anything, slowing them down. The engine wasn’t actually cold when starting in the vid, it had been running a couple minutes prior. I didn’t preheat it but did back off the glow plug about a 1/4 turn just to help starting before tightening it like you suggested actually! Can’t do much now until the conrod gets here... When I took the backplate off there was a decent amount of oil in there so I’m not sure lack of oil caused it but I really don’t know. I have oil stains on my driveway from where it moved off from! Coming from the exhaust. I hope all of that made sense! If there is anything else you could think of that might have caused this? I’ve been searching forum posts for hours trying to find a solution!! Thanks 1111!

Ahh I only put a drop of oil down the chamber for the first start that’s all! And yeah but once it’s hot and cleared out it’s like s#*t of a shovel! Yes I’ve had to play with the needles just to get it to run. I’ve read on this forum that the factory settings in the manual are way off and I’d does seem like it. I’m using fresh 25% nitro fuel which has been recommended to me on here as well. Once I get a new conrod and exhaust gaskets and put the engine back together I’ll put it to factory settings and see but I won’t hold my breath. I’m sure my issue has something to do with the exhaust gaskets melting but if the engine temp is reasonable and there is plenty of smoke, I’m not sure what I can do. Burnt my hand touching the exhaust after it had been running! Yet the engine I could touch fine! Thanks all!

At the start, it would bearly move! I’ve contacted the supplier and waiting for them to get back to me. Can you see what I mean about it leaning itself out almost? Or is it? Don't suppose you can shed any light on why the exhaust gaskets (silicone) have melted? Before it went, I changed all the fuel lines from white to clear to make sure there was no bubbles and to visually aid in priming. I’ve checked the fuel tank and lines for leaks, the exhaust wasn’t leaking when it was cold either but may have once it was hot. Hopefully I’ll be back up and running again soon. I’ve also been looking at the fastrax enduro engine because for the price they look really well made and supposedly are really hard wearing. Anyway, thank you Jumper!

I pre-heated it with a hat gun the first time I started it and even put a drop of oil into the piston so it didn’t move dry for the first pull. But I haven’t pre-heated since. Compression was nice but didn’t feel like it would get stuck at TDC so I didn’t bother afterwards. An air leak is what I’m thinking, I’ve uploaded a video on YouTube so you can see how rich it runs to start with then leans itself out!