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Obvious thing that i can think of is are your end points turned up on your Tx? If it was something like say a Blitz then my first suspicions would be the servo, but on the ERevo with the stock wheels and tyres in my experience the stock servo's are more than up to the job. That of course is IF they are working right, so it's worth spending a few mins looking around your steering components checking everything is tight but nothing is binding. Failing that here's a couple of things i'd suggest to try: 1/ If your using smaller battery packs you can really tweak the handling of the ERevo by simply moving them around. In your case it seems like getting a bit more weight over the front will help, so try sliding the packs as far forward as they'll go then adding any packing (to stop the packs sliding around) at the rear of the pack. 2/ A really easy thing to try is adjusting the ride height front and rear. In your case i'd try winding down the front as low as it goes and the rear to it's max height. Again this should put weight over the front and give more front bite. Only other thing i can think of is your running the stock pushes/ride height right? Did you buy this new or used? Is it stock, if not what's been changed? Cheers Mark

I think we need to be clear here, because if the problem is as stated understeer you can have 5 of the best servo's ever invented installed and it won't do diddly squat for understeer. So can you please describe exactly what is happening under what circumstances? My ERevo was exactly the same as yours and i had no steering problems, so it's also worth saying under what terrain your having these problems.

I think that if noobs choose the right motors and gears from the start most RC companies would go out of business. Time and time and time again we see noobs come on here wanting the fastest car, fastest motor, most extreme batteries but they ALL get bored with their new impossible to control and expensive to repair hobby and move on. This coming from an absolute speed fanatic. Power is nothing without control, a vid of a Blitz spinning out every time the throttle is open past 1/4 i'd get pretty boring. My advice is forget about trying to impress folks on forums you'll more than likely never meet and mates that don't know any better. All because the car has the potential to reach 80mph it for 100% sure doesn't mean the driver can control it at even half that speed. Being a bloke i have the potential to go out with Monica Bellucci, doesn't mean it's likely though does it

Been beating the hell out of my Blitz for a couple of years now, apart from the stock X-rings leaking i've had no problems with either the MIP ball diff or the geared diff. Absolutely pointless running a Blitz on 4S though as you'll just spin the wheels on anything more than 1/4 throttle. I've tried everything from 1900kv to 6000kv on 2S and have settled on 2500kv for off-road as anything more gets very boring very quickly, as it's always spinning the wheels which mostly leads the car to spinning out. Your also going to have a nightmare trying to fit any decent mAh 4s packs in the chassis and even if you do the weight is going to ruin the handling. The Blitz is a cheap pretty much indestructible reasonably fast mega fun RC car, if you want the sort of speed 4S will give you need to look at 4x4 for sure and preferably something bigger like a Savage or ERevo.

Absolutely agree 100% Get a dog from the RSPCA and you need means testing, your home and garden checked and a background check. To have a kid they need absolutely nothing. When i go back to the UK, there are folks that live in the area i grew up in that do nothing but complain about money. Yet they have 3 kids and another on the way, brand new latest version Iphone, thousands of pounds on toys be it RC, decks, bikes etc, all the time sucking the system dry as the can't be arsed to get up in the morning and go to work. Then these jerks have the nerve to complain their paid for or heavily subsidised council house is no longer big enough to house their 4 kids. Makes my blood boil. You can walk around these areas and it's no exaggeration to call these kids feral kids, as they're like feral dogs. To make matters worse, these "parents" (loosest possible term) failed on their first 2 kids as their in the cop shop at least twice a month yet the STILL have more kids They should bring in sterilisation for everyone at birth, then the only way they can have kids is if they pass a selection committee first. I'm not saying you need to be wealthy to have kids, but you at the very least should be working and earning money. What kinda role model is a doley setting.

Sorry mate, i've not even seen a TF5 in the flesh never mind driven one, so i have no idea. Certainly looks the part mind. Only worry i'd have with that is that you'll have to find some way of securing the LiPo packs as it's NiMh chassis.

There is no right answer to that mate. A car is really worth how much someone is willing to pay for it, if you love Tamiya and like that chassis by all means jump on it, don't let the shell cloud your judgement though as it's only a few quid to change that. Personally i like to get a bit of carbon fibre for my money. If i'm being 100% honest it probably does nothing with regards to drifting better, but hey i like the stuff. I've also found that it helps on resale as carbon chassis's seem to hold their price better. Not seen the 2012 Xray's yet, i'm in no doubt they'll be absolutely stonking cars. That's a HELL of a lot of money to through at a drifter though Had my drifters for a while now, but i've not paid over £100 for any of them, most were around the £60 mark. Hell even with my motor, Esc, hop up's, chassis, Rx, servo etc i don't think everything together cost me more than £300. If it's quiet at work tomorrow i'll take a look round the usual forums and ebay and see if i can find a decent used TC chassis that'll be MORE than up to the job I know where your coming from, your thinking the more money the better. With drifters though we are really only using a fraction of the chassis's potential, plus as TC racing tends to be door slamming aggressive the cars are usually very well built and even when racing with fast motors and grippy tyres they tend to survive most impacts unscathed. For drifting our speeds are a LOT LOT LOT slower, so strength really isn't a problem. The only failures i've had drifting over the years are drivetrain related, and all of those were down to pure idleness on my part (not carrying out maintenance). For me the beauty of drifting is: 1/ It's easy i.e. you don't have to spend hours on setup 2/ It's cheap Slow speeds so very very little crash failures Drift tyres last aggessssssssssssss You don't need top quality motors esc's etc 3/ With only a few hours practice you can really start to string drifts together This also makes it great drifting with mates as you can have some mega close drifting, shells bashing and nudging but with no damage other than a few "character enhancing" scratches and paint swaps 1 thing i personally believe is essential though are these: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5888d3e810 Throwing the car around in a wide open car park is great, for about 10 mins, it gets very boring very quickly though. You throw the car into a long ass drift get it 90° and think your a drifting God. It's really only when you mark out a course that it really shows how good (or in my case how crap) you are. They make drifting a LOT more challenging and enable you to see what you really drive like and how you improve. Cheers Mark

Holy Tamiya batman that's a LOT of money for a bog basic plastic chassis I'm on my way out the house now, but when i get back tonight i'll have a search see what else i can find

Not a Tamiya fan personally, but with regards to drifting all half decent used touring car chassis's are all pretty much the same. Even if they don't drift too well straight off they're all adjustable enough to get there. For me if it was my first drifter it'd all boil down to what's available on Ebay at the time i'm buying, even though i'm not a Tamiya fan if i saw a TA at the right price then i'd be tempted.

Another option if your Esc can handle it, is to volt up. If your running 2S try a 3S pack, or if your feeling brave try 2 x 2S to give you 4S.

Out of the 10 or so RC cars i own 6 are HPI/HB, so please don't think i'm a Traxxas/Tamiya etc fan boy slagging off HPI. With that in mind it must be said: The Sprint 2 is crap. Sure it drifts ok out the box, but it soon starts getting raged round the edges and it goes down hill from there. This guy is bang on the money I've been RC drifting for a couple of years now and a used touring car like a Cyclone, Xray, Tamiya etc etc is cheaper AND better than even the most hopped up Sprint 2 in existence. Personally i run 2 x Cyclone WCE's for comps and a HPI Pro3 and Pro4 for mates, bashing etc. Pretty much any used touring car will be better than a Sprint 2, it's just for me the cars listed have many interchangeable parts so it keeps the spares down. Plus since the TCX came out prices of Cyclones have dropped slightly. My advice is do NOT buy the Sprint 2 Cheers Mark

Looks fantastic, great job on the build and colour scheme. Was planning on buying one of these, but the XR10 has cost more to get right than i planned so...... It's a real shame Axial have discontinued the kit now .

+1 Added to my bookmarks, i'll check back every now and then to see if they've added them to their store

Nice

I'd really appreciate a heads up if anyone sees these available for sale anywhere please. Fantastic idea, well executed Cheers Mark

There is no real "right choice" on servo's, it's really just a case of what you prefer, no doubt the Savox is man enough for the job if provided with enough power. Interesting about the MIP CVD's, i'll look into them thanks. The TRX CVD's seem fine on the stock arms, but tend to bend when the softer more flexible RPM arms are used. As i tend to go through stock arms at a fair rate i really have to stick with CVD's that work with the RPM arms unfortunately. Cheers Mark

Yep, i can't think of any reason why not. Make sure you remove the power wire from the Esc though, otherwise you'll have power going into the Rx from the Esc AND the BEC which could well burn it out. Do not cut the Esc power wire though if (like in the case of Castle Esc's and XeRuns) you need to use the Rx plug to program the Esc.

That's a weird one. Here's what i'd do, remove the plug from the steering position (on the Rx) and plug it into the throttle position. Now try that, the steering servo should now move with the throttle. If it does then try moving the steering and see if you get the same problem as you were getting before. If you are then 100% it's your wiring. To prove the Rx is ok, just plug the servo directly into the Rx and try again. If it does exactly the same thing it sounds to me as though something is wrong with the Rx or your Tx is programmed into some kind of mixing mode.

Is this a new design? I looked into MIP CVD's a while ago, but didn't read 1 good report, many said the Traxxas CVD's were better. So i went for Summit drive shafts in the end.

Honestly can't remember. Usually i just do a search on Ebay, then find the cheapest with the best feedback. Just to forewarn you again, the 7980 does NOT fit straight into the ERevo servo hole. You will need to open up the servo cut out with a file or dremel and drill out 2 of the servo holes. I have a spare chassis so wasn't to bothered about "modifying" mine. For the BEC it really is a piece of **** to fit. I did a write up a while ago that might help you: For me folks spend £14 on chrome crap that does nothing, so £14 on something that at worst is a bit of insurance, at best solves some glitching, brown outs, short range etc etc is an absolute bargain. The only downside is, it's a bit more wiring knocking about. On my off-road cars i don't care, but for my on-road cars it's tough to get find somewhere to tuck the BEC and the extra wiring. So to sum up. The are many advantages with running a separate BEC. Can solve some glitching, brown outs Allows you to run the servo on it's own separate power source Gives cleaner power to the Rx and Esc (if the Servo is wired separate) Allows full control of the servo voltage (again if wired separately to the Rx) At worst it supplies more power than the servo can pull At best it supplies a LOT more power than nearly all Esc based BEC's Is a very cheap mod at around £14 Is easy to fit Has a small footprint The disadvantages are: It's a bit more wiring in your car It's a no brainier as far as i'm concerned Cheers Mark

The only Esc i know of with a half decent BEC is the Holmes Hobbies BR-XL, even then it starts getting over powered by the bigger servo's. Castle Esc BEC's are notoriously poor. I have noticed a dramatic difference on every RC i have tried a BEC on. Even my on-road touring car/drifters felt a LOT better with a BEC (i don't run a BEC on these though purely to keep the wring tidy). Even with an extremely light load (on the servo) as drifting i'm consistently seeing the servo pull 2.5amps from the BEC. With peaks at over 5 amps. On off-road cars with the big heavy wheels and tyres it's even worse. There is absolutely no point in paying any more that £20 for a servo on a off-road car if your going to power it from the esc. It's pointless and a waste of money. Even on a poor stock servo, £14 on a BEC will give a noticeable improvement. Running any half decent servo on a stock Esc BEC is like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw. Possible, but pointless and achieves no where near it's full potential. Another thing worth thinking about when buying servo's is, if you have the money then go as big as the installation allows. A 7980 run at 6v under light load will run more efficiently and reliably than a smaller servo being pushed to it's limits. It's like driving 100 miles down the motorway in a Smart car. Sure it'll do it, but a diesel Mondeo will do it with more comfort, efficiency and reliably. To be honest i used to think exactly the same with regards to BEC's, i saw them as ugly and pointless. Since fitting them and having monitored exactly how much power servo's are pulling i'm absolutely 100% sure they will give a noticeable gain in performance over most stock Esc BEC's.

Very very nice What did you use for light buckets, or did they come with the shell?

Bit confusing sorry mate, i meant the castle BEC (IMO absolutely essential no matter what servo you get). The servo i recommend is the Hitec 7980TH http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/digital/hv-ultra-premium-digital/hs-7980th.html Speed: 0.17 Torque: 611 oz/in (46 kg/cm) That's at 7.4v which it'll run til the sun burns out. I was running it at 8v in my crawler and this servo could physically lift the truck up a ledge by the wheels. The servo choice is really down to personal choice though. What i would say is, there is absolutely no point paying more than a few quid for a servo if your not going to fit a BEC. Esc's BEC's are notoriously weak and even most crap stock servo's will quickly over power them. Stick on a decent servo and it stands absolutely no chance. I'm using the blue CC BEC in every one of my off-road cars. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html Good thing about this is, you can plug in your castlelink and program the BEC to operate at what ever voltage you want. Cheers Mark

No if's but's or maybe's. Get yourself a castle BEC and a 7980 You will need to open up the servo hole slightly though as the 7980 is slightly bigger than a stock servo Cheers Mark

These days they are extremely rare. Reasons for this are many, but the 2 biggest contributing factors are awareness and better Lithium charging technology. As most things in life there is a risk, if your careful though and take a few precautions those risks are reduced to an extremely small amount. Never charge unattended Never leave in your RC vehicle Never ever leave plugged in Store safely (i recommend both a LiPo bag AND something like a lockable petty cash tin) Careful with physical damage, i've seen a LiPo pack from a crashed copter (that looked fine) flare up the next trip as the owner was strapping the pack in To be honest these are precaution that you'd be wise to follow (except maybe the storage) with any chemistry cell. I know even when i'm recharging my AA cells i always keep an eye on them. The only cells i've seen what i'd term explode where NiMh's, because the owner had soldered over the vent, LiPo's on the other hand tend to flame rather then explode, even then not all the time a lot will depend on how fully charged they are (the more charge = more energy = bigger flames) Cheers Mark