Paul Busby
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Posts posted by Paul Busby
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51 minutes ago, Guns said:
That ET48 2.0 looks epic, didnt realise they had such a high RRP though !!
Yeah that's tekno 😞
You can see why when you're building it, but It's hard to show on photos as there is just so many really small details that you look at and go... "aaaah that's cool".
Even in comparison to the MT410, this kit is pretty next level stuff. Bearings on the roll bar, adjustable pills on the end of the arm for the hub carrier, flanged bearings in really logical places with mouldings in the plastic for them to sit perfectly into, UJ instead of dog bone for the rear drive shaft.... I'm really looking forward to drivign it!
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Did a couple more bags on the ET48 and although I haven't been posting about it, I also made some progress on the TC-01
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N4PT3ST/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F5MGA8YWB1D6QCWHEJKC
I think this is the one I have. On offer at the moment it's a lot of drill for the money, especially with 2 batts and a charger.
Ergonomics are excellent, with the proviso that you can't, "stand them up" like bigger drills/drivers.
It is for sure overpowered for those tasks, but the clutch is decent so you can probably set that, and let it yield for most IKEA furniture. For RC this would also probably work, but I wouldn't risk it. I'd manually stop a mm or two away from snug.
The key here is that it has a 2 speed gearbox, and variable speed trigger, so as long as you control it and don't always just smash screws in, it will work a treat.
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Started the ET48 2.0....
Not got far, but this new job is really draining my energy.
Have to say there is some touches that leads me to think they have gone out the gate with this design to satisfy the basher.
The towers are super chunky and the plastic for the rear diffs is insanely tough (hopefully it doesn't turn out to be brittle). It looks like it has very long strains of filler material in (carbon/graphite/glass?).
Super easy to swap between the fugly low body, and a more normal truggy body. It's 1 screw per body post. Will make an incredible long MT, if that is anyones ultimate goal (might be for me).
Diffs were perfect with no shims inside or outside for me too, which is typical of Tekno diffs. Absolutely no faffing, just bosh everything in the case and crack on.
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I have one almost identical to this that's branded "Vonhaus" from amazon I think... except it's orange. Note that this doesn't have a variable speed trigger.
It will do the job, just about, the soft clutch is pretty good for RC as you can set it to yield a good mm or two before snug to make sure you do it up by hand. It's still a naff cheap tool though and 9/10 times I reach for my Makita that's way overpowered for the job.
@jimbulsara - If I was you, I would invest in a proper drill driver. The Bosch 12v range are great, going to set you back quite a bit more... but its a proper tool. The video mentioned by @Tug is a good watch if you really are set on a screwdriver. I think the "no cry" came out pretty well given it has variable speed, clutch, and a decent amount of torque.
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1 hour ago, Guns said:
The rear A Arms are still out of stock, and the date is getting further and further away...... buy an Arrma they said, spare parts avaliability is fine they said.....
(tongue in cheek, not great for RC stock full stop at the mo.....)
I think the fact that everyone has said this has made the situation worse, lots of demand!
I do have a set of EXB arms here that are for testing various parts, I'd rather keep them but if anyone is absolutely desperate for them, I can part with them. -
Yeah get it scratched. Once you scratch it up, fill the scratches in with paint and they start to look much less like a bin lid, and a bit more like an RC body.
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3 hours ago, Ant.p said:
Hi guys. Just before I bite the bullet, can I get some input to help me make a final decision. I’m heavily leaning one way at the moment, but that’s based purely on what I’ve read/seen on YouTube. Would be good to get some feedback from actual owners...
so I’m torn between the notorious and Kraton. I’m not looking at a roller, so not worried so much about the setup (initially). More the chassis.
I most enjoy jumping and flips etc, but that’s not all I do. I’m concerned the notorious will be a one trick pony and be pants at general driving with the short wheelbase.
sorry if this is in the wrong thread, I’ve not managed to find anything more suitable. I’m thinking most here will be biased towards the kraton, but hopeful that some of you may have had a bash with both.
The notorious won't be pants at general driving, that said, the Kraton does pretty much anything the Notorious can, and is a bit more stable .
A kraton is unlikely to do a triple backflip with ease, and a Notorious is unlikely to get around a corner without letting off the throttle.... but neither will disappoint in either aspect.
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That trailing arm stuff looks noiceeeee!
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11 hours ago, Ant.p said:
Is there a notorious v5 owners thread or similar? I’ve just done a search and can’t find anything. Was wondering what I may need/want to do to the car out the box if anything. I’m hoping to pick mine up before the weekend if I can get to the shop before it closes one day... 😁
All the Arrma 6s cars are pretty similar really, so you can also look through threads related to Kraton/Typhon/Mojave to get ideas.
Personally I would suggest not dong too much out the box, just enjoy the car the way it was designed. It's a decent truck and they're relatively tough... just don't try and "Kevin Talbot" your car... as outside the XMaxx and Maxx, there really isn't any cars that can take THAT kind of punishment without mods.You can do jumps and whizz about fields etc just fine, then when you break something, perhaps think about upgrades at that point. Don't be tempted to do the "alloy everything" path though, be selective. Sometimes things break because you made a mistake, not because the car needs an upgrade.
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10 hours ago, PraetoR said:
I'm with you there! Although, if it's all crossheads then I don't mind.
It's when some are hex and others aren't; I hate mismatched screws, almost as much as I hate glitter!
I bin all cross heads, immediately 😄
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11 hours ago, broon said:
I'm not far from you, there's a few little dirt jumps down near seaham I've been to a couple of times. There's great ayton quarry a bit further south and I think hetton park in Houghton has a BMX track that could be worth a visit.
I was planning on going along there on Sunday but had other plans unfortunately.
I reckon I will make the trip once I have my Tekno ET
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I found that a little bit of heat helped normal stickers stay on better. Mine have only come off due to my terrible driving.
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Thats a good idea mate. Look forward to seeing it.
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48 minutes ago, GMballistic said:
Totally agree.
It's like the Tamiya Ford Escort Mk2 Rally that is 4WD, ...that should be RWD too imho.
However Losi do make a no prep drag car, the Losi 22S, which has a 69' Camaro bodyshell so if you wanted just RWD you could get that and if you prefer this new Camaro body shell then you could always fit it to the drag car as they're both 1/10th scale.
Link: http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOS03035T1
Either that or build a 4WD 1:1 muscle car to justify the RC existance... that one might be the better option 😄
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Am I the only one who thinks that this should NOT be AWD?
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Only difference is you can’t run a cage.
if your running an unbreakable shell then they’re pointless anyway.
i haven’t run a cage for ages.
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50 minutes ago, BashingBrian said:
Where do you think the HW stuff comes from..?? 🤔🤣
They all come from China... of course... but the QC for Surpass and the QC for Hobbywing is for sure, two different leagues.
I recomend people buy Surpass al the the time, as they're so damn cheap, and the performance is overall very close to hobbywing, but there is for sure a difference in QC.
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This guy....
When you get a guy who comes from a background of engineering sports bikes who puts his energy into RC... you get this. Outrageous!
Have to say all my Scorched parts... parts... have been incredible.-
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Very similar to the style I'm going for for the front, but I wanna put a cage over the bumper/headlights... no idea if Im going to be able to actually print it though!
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You have already tweaked the Kraton quite a bit so I would go the approach of getting that going rather than starting on a new platform.
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They're a bit heavy for 4s tbh, but if you put a bigger pinion on they can do it just fine... just make sure you have batteries with a decent C rating and keep an eye on the ESC temp.
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8 minutes ago, Guns said:
Ive got a 1650kv HW 4985 in it. But no esc as I put that in my X Maxx.
I can buy another Max 6, sell the motor and buy something else. Or just buy a Max 8/2200kv combo. I just think the motor is too much for this IMO
Well I have a spare max 6 (unsed, but I would like to keep it) and a "castle" 1518 that you're welcome to try out and then send back to me... or I guess you could keep the Max and buy me a replacement... up to you, just give me a shout if you wanna try. Could possibly part with the motor if you really like it, but it was earmarked for the ET48 2.0.
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13 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:
It voids warranty on Arrmas too. And on Hobaos. And any other company that doesn't explicitly mentions "it's okay to change connectors", because otherwise it's considered a rewiring and rewiring voids warranty. In fact MSUK issues a blanket warning for their ESC resolder service, that it can void manufacturers warranty.
Indeed, but the Traxxas connector is specifically very unique to their trucks. This was a consideration to me when I bought my first RC, and it's a consideration whenever I'm looking at them now. If I was buying a new Arrma now, they come with IC5 which is a pretty decent and relatively universal one, also used by Axial, Losi... and other "horizon" brand at least, not to mention the support from battery manufacturers. I'm sure there is a good range who offer batteries pre-supplied with IC5. If I was splashing out for a really nice RTR now, I would contemplate switching everything over from XT90 (which is what was on my Kraton 6s when I bought it, and so it has become my in-house standard) to IC5 to accommodate that warranty. In reality I would likely always look for a roller/slider and put in my own electronics so we don't need to have this discussion at all.
Traxxas connectors are for traxxas cars and you need traxxas batteries... with that comes compatibility and to a certain degree safety, but against it is cost and flexibility. I mean, It doesnt make sense to put a traxxas connector onto a non-traxxas car... if you ask me... so I wouldn't make that my "standard".
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What did you do to your model today?
in General RC
Posted
I'd pre-order 3 if they announced an 1800KV Motor.