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Posts posted by Paul Busby
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40 minutes ago, walkbythesea said:
What’s the base truck there Paddy?
Looks like a Tekno MT410 or SCT410 to me
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On 15/06/2021 at 20:29, Ant.p said:
My servo is clearly moving. If I remember to, I’ll take a video and post next time I’m running it. There are no loose screws, so assume the mount isn’t quite man enough. The biggest problem which is hopefully to soon be cured is the servo saver though!
Take the whole mount apart and put it back together with threadlock. I'm sure the EXB one is alloy, so it should be rock solid. Sounds like something is loose.
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That's very strange mate. I might drop a note on the Thingiverse.
I wonder if there has a been a slight tweak to the Maxx design somewhere.
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53 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
@Paul Busby circlips and pliers are on their way! Looking forward to getting them in to see if it works. Then there’s just the servo mount to reinforce/replace.
re the wheel, I assumed it would be a case of clamping something on, but wondered if there was a trick I didn’t know about. For now it drives okay, so will address when I need to remove the wheel.
im curious about the alternative wing mount which is not available. Do you have any details so I could look into trying to source one please?
I thought the EXB Servo mount was good, no? I use a JBIRC one from CustomRC Upgrades, but there is a bunch of options out there.
This is the guy that makes the really good parts. His shop has been closed a while though, so I wonder if he is only selling B2B now.
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You probably will need to fix this selling thread when the mods spin round.
Are you interested in an up front sale, and if so, how much?
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3 hours ago, m-racing said:i did love this car in beginning.
Now im not so sure.
Always diff problems after i change to 8s combo.
iM Thinking make it 6s again.
😞
The car was never intended to be run at 8s.
I have seen a bunch of people disappointed that the Kraton experience at 8s isnt great and I really don't understand it. The diffs are way too small and way too loose for 8s bashing, they can take a bit of speed running, but jumping with huge tyres on is way too much for this rig. There is no benefit to it either, it's heavy for a 1/8, but not so much that you would need the extra current capacity that 8s have to offer. I get that some people like to just do, "because I can", but why on earth would you get upset when you find that your toaster makes a crap pizza oven?Just run it at 6s geared to 50-60MPH and it's a blast. I've had my Kraton for a couple of years now and once you have it all tweaked they really are beasts. Shim the diffs, sling on a bunch of aftermarket parts and just enjoy it for what it was designed to be.
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2 hours ago, Guns said:
To be fair, the EXB to my knowledge is a fair bit different to the Notorious? Maybe see if theres a thread for them?
It is a different truck, but it's not all that different to be honest. Other than the shorter wheelbase, and therefore driveshafts and braces, there's little else to it. The issues highlighted here are the same for Kraton and Notorious.
That said, don't be afraid to start a new thread. I'll sub and continue to poke my nose in despite not owning one 😄
2 hours ago, Guns said:Ive brought some BRAND NEW CopperHeadz wheels and tyres, the electrics are in the Maxx so Im going to put it up for sale I think….
Used EXB roller with NEW wheels and tyres
Outcast tall sides to keep the chassis cleaner
Longer screws for rear wingM2C Shock Inserts (NIP)
RPM Rear Skid plate
3D Printed Rear Arm Mud Guarss
Spare Rear arm and dog bone
Boxed with instructions etc. Brought Jan 2021. Its used, shell has holes n cracks, and theres scratches/scuffs etc. Will get proper pictures etc. Its genuinely been used around 10 times, theres pretty much a picture of everytime Ive used it in this thread
What price do we rekon?
With the mudguards... £100m, don't take a penny less 😄
In all seriousness though if it's in decent nick then ~£300-350 maybe?
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14 hours ago, Ant.p said:
Main one being the steering. There is no adjustment I can see on the servo saver, and the servo itself also seems under powered? Could just be a combination with f play in the servo mount and saver, but not sure. Has anyone advise on how to correct this please.
14 hours ago, Ant.p said:other issue is that one of the wheels came off whilst using. Put it back on without inspection, but the hex in the rim must have been stripped/damaged. Now I can’t get the wheel off as the wheel hex is spinning when holding the wheel to loosen the nut. Any help here would be appreciated please.
Best bit might be to take the arm apart and use something to clamp onto the driveshaft/drive cup then spin the nut.
14 hours ago, Ant.p said:only other issue (to date) is the two bolts which go through the rear of the arms for the wheelie bar mount, through the shock tower and into the rear diff housing. I’ve sheered them off twice now. Both times I have been able to remove the tower and just get onto the remaining thread with grips to remove, reconstruct and replace. Has anyone else suffered this problem, and is there a cure other than to improve on my driving skills?
Yeah this is a common issue. Not too much in the way of solutions, other than perhaps an after market wing mount, but the one that I recommend isn't really available in the UK at the moment (POS). I think some people have drilled them out to M4, but I don't think there is a "solution" to the issue completely.
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22 hours ago, Fuzzock said:
Could maybe try to print one? Questionable how much punishment it would take, but probably more than a glued part
Speaking of which, I have been very quiet on the 3D printed parts front as i have been doing a bit of an overhaul on my printer. Installed a redesigned carriage with a far more efficient hot end, pulled all the sides off and re-organised the cables, changed some fans... with doing a full time job it's taken some time.
I can say that it was absolutely worth it though.
Just printed a part off in PA12-CF15 (Nylon with 15% carbon) and it's better than anything I have done with similar filmanets in the past.So I'm back in the game... @.AJ. - Again, I'll have to let you know how it holds up 😄
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1 minute ago, MTMIKE said:
I'm having delay issues as well and have been messing with it, and the maximum throttle stroke helps a little bit. If u mess with it
Honestly the only that really helps these Gool RC ESCs, if you get a bad one, is to get a refund and replace it with a Hobbywing.
I know this seems blunt and flippant, but it's true. The electronics are very poor.
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Me likely, but me not affordy...
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Just now, .AJ. said:
The Tekno alloy servo arm 👍Definitely this.... otherwise I think your good really. The steel centre diff might be a good idea if you're planning on going 6S, but otherwise the truck is solid stock.
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10 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:
but crap happens mate 😞
looks like you might be able get it back together tho mate
Na, screen is smashed and a bunch of the componants have broken inside. It's done for mate.
Ordered a new one 😭
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Just now, Stormbringer said:
truck looks good pity same cant be said about the controller tho
Indeed... this controller has a multi model memory, so it's the same one for all my Tekno trucks. This was a really bad way to lose my temper.
Expensive moment of stupidity... really taken the shine off this build 🤦🏼♂️- 1
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Hi mate,
Sorry I didn't see this when you posted it.
If you want a wing, then I think you can use the Kraton 4s one, you can also use the Kraton 4s shell.
Wheelbase of 330mm is quite common so actually a lot of typical truck shells will fit, but if you install a wing, it will mean you have to do some chopping up of the back to make it work.
In terms of other upgrades, have a look at Custom RC Upgrades.
I can also 3D print pretty durable parts if needs be 👍
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7 hours ago, Iain .R said:
Does it really make that much difference to get all the air out the shocks.. how long do you wait cheers
And it's a cool.looking set up .
All depends on the shocks. With a typical basher perhaps it's not as critical, but it honestly only takes leaving them alone for 20-30 mins typically and you will get less aggressive rebound.
I was actually skeptical of the way these shocks work, as they have an emulsion cap but work with bladders, I actually now think they're better than emulsion for getting consistent shocks, and might rebuild my other Tekno's in this way.
You basically build them as a bladder shock, and bleed the air out from behind the bladder using the emulsion cap to set rebound.
Gets PERFECTLY equal shocks first time without any issues.
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Made some more progress on the ET48... Basically done now.
Well I would be if I'd remembered to order the Servo arm and the battery tray had space for batteries other than ROAR 4s hardpacks 😒Going to have to print something I guess.
The electrics BARELY fit. Super tight there with an 82mm can and a max8, literally not even a mm space.
You can also see my 3D printed shock stand 💪
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I think you would be hard pressed to find a kit car for £6000
Dead Bodies Inc
in Bodyshells & Painting
Posted
Well it has Tekno arms, Tekno shocks, Tekno bumpers and a Tekno A Block 😉
It does have an Arrma wing though.