Paul Busby

Na I'm pretty happy with the angle. If anything mine is more gentle. My material is a bit thicker (being plastic, it has to be to stay rigid rather that flexing about loads), but that space underneatht the motor mount is just so small I can't get a proper nut in there without fouling.

I don't get it though 😆 I worked so hard and it still doesn't fit, but it looks identical to that in terms of design of the side bracket mount.

So the mount is actually milled out and the washer slots inside them?

Do the washers also go completely around the nub in the side guard, or on top of it? The way I have tried to do it looks very similar to this so it's puzzling me how it works for his design and not mine. It must be VERY close to the bottom of the motor mount when it's all assembled.

@BashingBrian- With your fan moount you posted earlier, how thick is the steel, and did you have to trim off the little nubs that are ont he sideguard for it to work? I've designed a bunch of plastic ones but it seems the space undernearth the motor mount is a real issue for actually getting that screw in, can't figure out how it was done given it looks like you have normal nuts on there?

Yeah I totally agree with you. There is massive room for improvement, especially for the EXB, they should have addressed it. I guess it comes down to cost. The Arrma 2 bits of injection moulded Arrma-grade (i.e. you don't know how good this batch is till it breaks) plastic are replaced by 6 pieces in the POS one. He seems to machine the plastic, and it's a very good quality nylon. People were asking me to make one when I made the bumpers, and I dont think they really understand how compex a part it is to get right for a novice... but I have tried to imagine how I would over-engineer it when I get confident in my ability. I think they need to seperate the part that connects the bulkhead to the centre->rear brace from the bit that goes to the wing, brace the internal section on the tower (will need new body posts). Connect that part somehow to the wing section using a "soft" plastic spacer/washer, also brace that on the on the outside of the tower again with a softer plastic so it has some give/flex. Maybe even use a soft plastic rubbery composite for the whole external section that usually breaks... Reading that probaby made you go cross eyed... I need to make it in Fusion 360 to help visualise it... but I really CBA 😄 I think there is a certain cold truth to what Brian is saying though. The cars are not really designed to land on those, and then to give credit also to MB, the wing snapping off there and replacing it with a £10-15 part is far easier to stomach than some of the alternative solutions. The issue could also be improved by Arrma improving the consistency of their parts quality. The one that originally came on my V3 lasted for months through some big crashes with no problems, but others have had it break on the first crash. Arrma have had a supplier issue stretching back long before the 8S and EXB were released, but those releases certainly brought it to light.

TBF, my stock one put up with an absolute pounding before it broke, as this was the car I actually learned with. It's definitely a weak point, no denying that. The design or material need certainly needs to be improved. But just a note; the POS one absolutely is an improvement. I have it and it's bloody invincible.

The POS one is awesome.... but it's from Germany mand he's not shipping to the UK 😞 Modelsport usually stock them, I guess they're having trouble at the moment: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=1332634 There is an RPM one, but I don't think it's a lot better than the stock one: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=397447

Still annoys me that it's different... What bit of maths am I missing 😠

In fairness, I was calculating the stock motor as 2200kv, when it's actually 2050kv... that was my error. This is what my calculator spits out now with more correct info and a 13T: Sounds about right to me.

I'm a bit upset noone replied to my post on this ☹️

OK I'll PM you

DO you mean the basic one, or the one with the screen? I have a few of the basic ones that just light up to tell you what the setting is.

Pretty much yeah. It doesn't do any harm (as long as you don't get water in the sensor port) but it also doesn't add a massive amount. I wouldn't take it out of my MT410 though, it just feels "right" in there.

I haven't run my MMX8S yet (what's wrong with me?) but from the experience with my sensored set up in the MT410, I would say that it definitely helps during acceleration. Sensorless set ups with typical 4 pole motors have a bit of a "kick" to get past the cogging which can make it difficult to get the power down without doing a standing backflip. The delivery of torque with sensored is very consistent right from the starting line. If you have a decent ESC with calibration software, you can usually even adjust the power curve so it's possible to get an awful lot more control. Is it enough for me to say, "go out and buy a sensored set up"? No, definitely not, especially with a Kraton. The Kraton is an animal, it's supposed to be a bit bonkers so the lairyness of a sensored set-up kinda works for it. You could probably tune it so that would get the best out of a sensored set-up, but I don't think it would really be worth the time, and I don't think it would be worth the extra money for an out the box Kraton. If you have an MT410 or an ET48, however, I would suggest considering it, as these are super agile race trucks that are also incredibly tough, so they benefit from it out the box.

Grass was short, it was a cool summers day on a football pitch, conditions couldn't really have been better for it.... don't remember if I was running the backflips of the LPs though. TBH It might not have been 19T... I think 19T was what I had on my MT410 (1500kv) Either way, this was certainly a lame duck. I was recommended them by a couple of people so was severely disappointed when it couldn't manage the exact same punishment as my fake castle 1518 1800KV could, which is an awesome cheapo motor. Both blown out the water by the TP Power though. On the topic of those, I haven't checked but the main distributors for them was TP Power DE, and TP Power Europe (NL). The German fella carries stock, and the NL guy doesn't... but both in Europe and Brexit still being a complete nightmare for companies like this.... I'd check with him before ordering. I know Alien Power sometimes stocks them, but his range is more boat focussed. I wonder what these are like: https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/40mm/aps-4092-inrunner-brushless-motor-rc-boat-4200w/ The sensored rocket motor on my MT410 is extremely good and all the surpass ones on my mini's are great, so im certainly not ragging on Surpass as a whole, I just think their QC leaves a little to be desired in certain areas.

It's more of a QC issue. Mine overheated with a 19T pinion on a flat field test and I had fans on it... it was just garbage. I'm not the only one with this experience, it's basically the same with any of the Surpass stuff, bit of a gamble, even if they're genrally better than most of the cheap chinese parts.

Those are pot luck, I got one and it was dreadful, overheated within minutes. I then gave it to someone else and he had the same experience, so it wasnt just me.

The stock motor for the Kraton is actually about right really, thats 2050kv. Although I have never tried one, I cant help but feel that the 4585 can is absolutely unnecessary, you're never ever going to use the torque. I have been running 4285 motors for a while, and when geared right, I also don't hit max throttle. As far as the ESC is concerned, the Max 6 is, IMO, a much better ESC for the Kraton EXB (or otherwise upgraded Kraton) than the Max8, if only because you don't need to put a stupid cap pack on for it to be warranteed for 6s.

Really don't know. I suppose they presume most people running it will be 4s rather than 6s. I'd buy a 1700-2000kv can in a heartbeat. Would be perfect for my MT410.

Thanks Tony, but I think Guns has me covered 👍

Great thanks!

Could I ask a favour of anyone who has the original sideguards and replaced them with the outcast ones... would you be willing to sell me your old stock ones? Could do with some spares as a reference. Also could you tell me if the side skirts are the same width? As in the distance from the screw to the outside of the guard. Some direct side by side photos of them detached would be awesome, but only if you're in the process of installing... definitely not asking anyone to risk stripping the plastic by taking them off just for a photo.

I wish they would do a 1900kv 4274

Seems odd that they don't come with that stock if it fits under the shell.