Badcrumble

What’s that you say, Mrs BC? I’m not required to attend Young BC’s trip to see his mates? That means its... JK time!! First up, reinstalled the centre console and dashboard. I’ll be taking them out again at some point but I want them in so I can start panelling the back. Removed the spare wheel as it is out of scale with the Rock Beasts. Undecided on what to do with the post that has been left behind. Reinstalled the 70mm King dampers in the rear. Despite drilling quite a few holes in the mounts, I somehow didn’t have one in the right place to make the dampers vertical! I have, however, demonstrated that it was worth making my own mounts. Put the 85mm GMade dampers on the front and...panhard binding on the steering horn. Removed the spacer that came with the panhard mount and it clears the horn again. Put the body back on. Hmm, lots of effort and it looks...no different! I did have a look at cable routing and found somewhere for the on/off switch too. If I get soldering I can have some shorter motor wires and my Holmes Hobbies motor in. Once I get the 90mm King dampers back on the front and the ride height finally defined I’ll feel like I can move on with the rear bed. I came very close to a test run this afternoon. If only I’d charged that battery...

Shout out for RC4WD customer support! They found a shock body (in the overseas warehouse) and worked out the cost to have it shipped - should arrive in a couple of weeks! Fingers crossed that it arrives and I have asked for the correct part! No other progress on the JK - life has got in the way...

Congratulations @stimpy! Looking forward to seeing what you make of this little rig...

Bring the thread back on track😀, I have rebuild the dampers I haven’t busted. RC4WD asked for a photo of my knackered damper...and then went dark. Hoping I get a reply from them this week.

With you there, my daily wear is mechanical.

Just discoloration - you can just make it out if you zoom into the photo above. Of course, probably moot now given that you can't seem to buy replacement bodies. I have emailed RC4WD to check.

Thanks @Andy-Roo, they seem OK, a bit tarnished in places. Of course, I've just ruined a thread on one of the bodies so I'll have to order a replacement. Had to be one of the 90mm ones too...

Question: should I be polishing my shafts? Oooer.

You're welcome. I couldn't sleep at 4am, I'm sorry if it came across a little 'bald'. I hope it is useful! I was really surprised that there is such a difference between the RTR and the kit, I had assumed they are the same but this appears to be an Axial trait.

The Axial website details the differences between the UMG RTR and kit transmissions and the thinking behind each approach together with noting the FDR of each (details copied below). Though the RTR listing omits that it has a slipper clutch the same as the kit. The kit allows for a 2 speed conversion, the RTR doesn’t. You can view the pitch of the individual gears contained in each in the respective manuals. The UMG kit instructions - https://www.horizonhobby.com/on/demandware.static/Sites-horizon-us-Site/Sites-horizon-master/default/Manuals/AXI90075-Manual-MULTI.pdf The 6x6 RTR instructions - https://www.horizonhobby.com/on/demandware.static/Sites-horizon-us-Site/Sites-horizon-master/default/Manuals/AXI03002-Manual-MULTI.pdf The RTR 6x6 transmission - AX10™ TRANSMISSION - ALL METAL GEARS The ultra compact transmission allows for a wide range of gearing choices. The overall ratio can be adjusted using different pinion and spur gear choices allowing super high speed or competition level crawling speed. The new transmission housing design still retains the basic function of the original transmission but in a new more scale looking case. • Final drive ratio (FDR) 42.00 – Original SCX10 was 33.06 • All metal internal gears! • Scale looks – silver color looks like cast aluminum • Better mounting points at the base of the transmission – no more stripped screws! The 6x6 kit transmission - SCX10™ II TRANSMISSION Scale looks on the outside, genuine Axial gears on the inside! The SCX10™ transmission received a design makeover with special attention paid towards aesthetics by mimicking a real transmission with a bell housing, oil pan and a 4X4 transfer case! And that’s just the beginning. By sitting the transfer case lower into the chassis and centering the driveshafts with the axle input housings, Axial has created a more efficient driveline with better driveshaft angles which puts less stress on moving parts. Better driveshaft angles coupled with hi-pinion axles IS scale realism backed with performance. Also includes full set of ball bearings and all metal internal gears for strength and durability. • Transfer case design helps keep the driveshafts centered and as low as possible in the chassis • Final drive ratio range 33.69 – 54.15 with available spur - pinion gear combinations • Comes with 56T spur gear and 15T pinion / 32-pitch for durability • All metal internal gears for strength and durability • Final drive ratio (FDR) 40.44 with a range from 33.69 - 54.15 - Original SCX10 was 33.06 • Scale looks mimics a full size transmission and transfer case OPTIONAL: For a functional low/high speed transmission, install the optional 2-speed gear set (part number AX31440 — requires an additional servo for the steering fork). DUAL SLIPPER CLUTCH Our dual slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface area. This allows for more precise tuning and holding power. The spur gear features strong, 32 pitch gearing for high torque applications. • Slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface contact area • More precise tuning and holding power • Strong 32P gear pitch for high torque applications

Started the tear down of the King shocks Hoping I can get the bottom off the shock bodies so I can grease the o-ring in there with my SRAM butter.

I like the tools racked behind the cab! Lots of great details.

Not just you 😪

There is such a thing as too much choice 😄 EDIT: as the expected delivery date on my dampers is now the end of November I have resolved to revisit the King dampers that came with the chassis.

Having taken a straw poll at work, there is division over black / steel wheels. Does seem to have an impact on the overall look. As for a driver, I think my 80s Action Force figures are a tad small, which is a shame. I might have another candidate, however...

I think it was this shot that made me decide on the bigger tyre I felt I could go just a bit bigger but not as far as the 120mm BFGs. Of course, the car wasn't level which doesn't help. Hmm, more fettling to do...

Do you mean you prefer the MT109s @Stormbringer? Looking at the photos again they do look good but I wasn't convinced when I had them on the truck. Then again, that was with the 62mm dampers on the rear. In theory there would be a few more mm between chassis tyre with the current 75mm dampers. Once I get the longer XD dampers on front of the truck and two 75mm on the rear I will take another look but TBH, I am probably with @Andy-Roo - Rock Beasts FTW! Now I think I need to mull over some magnetic mounts for the body. Even pondering some form of hinge arrangement at the front if I can fab something from Acetal and attach it securely to the body.

Soo...should I have tried the MT109s on the LockedUp wheels before going for the Rock Beasts? Nah, I’m pretty sure the front dampers are another hole higher in the photo with the MT109s. Which would have meant that the rear damper mounts would have needed another hole to accommodate the 75mm XD dampers (or the dampers would need angling) to bring the rear level. Or if the dampers stayed in the current positions there would be too big a gap between arch and tyre. I might try it one day to check!

As I am a few pages in to this thread, I thought I would do a wheel / tyre re-cap... LockedUp 1.9s and Pit Bull Rock Beast LockedUp 1.9s and Pro-Line BFGs GMade 1.9s and MT109 tyres RC4WD Deep Dish 1.55s and Wrangler M/Ts

Not the greatest of photos but I couldn’t resist. Dampers moved up one hole so the panhard link will fit again and wheels refitted, now with Rock Beast goodness. Looks like a tight fit but just about there. Will get the panhard link refitted and then the second 75mm damper on the rear. Then some 85mm on the front. At which point I might as well have stuck with the original King dampers!!! And guess what, I may just do that to bring down the top of the rear damper mounts and make my rear cover. And as they are slimmer they will fit better too - really the bottom of the current front dampers need spacing out a couple of mm, which will need some longer screws. No such problem with the King dampers but they need a rebuild. Round in circles we go!

Gotta get this right as my photo hosting site keeps rotating photos... BFGs on the left, Rock Beasts on the right All four transferred over now.

It really does look like you’re getting the hang of this brazing lark! Looks really cool. There must be a good satisfaction level with brazing - proper ‘I made this!’ stuff.

That looks like great inspiration @DartmoorTrails. I followed the eBay link - it is listed as 313mm wheelbase but shows the 275mm 2dr body like mine? Or is displaying incorrectly for me?

Prices on the 313mm bodies appear to have dropped recently, which is good as they went really high for a while - they are even cheaper at the moment than the 2dr versions I have seen on eBay! Looking forward to seeing your purchases and your (and your son's) adventures with them .

I hope so @DartmoorTrails! I'm pretty sure that the hard top on both the 2DR and 4DR China JKs unscrews as one piece. My roll cage was a purchase from Shapeways but you can get cages for the 313mm 4dr on eBay. Like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313mm-Wheelbase-Jeep-Wrangler-Body-Roll-Cage-Bar-for-1-10-RC-Axial-SCX10-90046-/133141400112