Nwmlarge

nice work dude

was a bent shock shaft. I'm looking up suitable replacements now

to adjust the speed it reacts at. I am running a Gyro on my Sakura D4 RWD and would like to experiment with slowing down the motion as the Gyro is "keen". Should smooth out any inputs.

Does anyone know if you can program a Turnigy R12 servo directly or is it another item ESC, or transmitter that is required? I have a Flysky GT3C transmitter, Hobby wing 1060.

My front end is getting stuck down and not springing back. It's fine when operate independently but not if push the truck down. Please see this video for demonstration . Torment sticky front end Back end is fine, all 4 shocks have been serviced within the last 20 hours of running. It's not been run in the wet, I don't get which bit is causing the issue. I would appreciate any pointers.

It is just the arms that are adjustable, I thought the wheel base was too but I was wrong. I have moved the arms forward using spacers, it makes very little 2.5mm difference so I think I will cut and shut the arches to where I want them.

I would like to fit a tamiya brat shell to my BSR BT-4 chassis which has been set up as a 4wd drift car. The shell looks like it will fit fine if the wheelbase is adjusted to the two inner settings front and rear. As the chassis is belt driven, do I need to replace the belt or is there a larger tensioner that I can fit to resolve the issue? The shell is a hard body and a proper beater and is being used as a trial for a mint condition hard body shell to be used later on. Photos below: https://www.instagram.com/p/By54bRKHqDF/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

So cool

Check out Mfab 4x4 on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/743455499146109/

I have a GT3 I had to swap the throttle control on the handset when I first got it as mine was flat out in reverse too. Remember to save the adjustments.

It's a BSR BT-4 WB 257.3mm Track width is 185mm - Does this mean outside of tyres or centre of the tread? Total length is 391mm It is set to the longest wheelbase using the suspension mounts as they have two sets of holes.

Are there any decent options about for an RC drift pick up truck? there are lots of Monster truck bodies. Can these be used? what info is key?

I came up with another idea. An old halfords tools box was the perfect thickness to trim up to add the protection with out too much weight. I've also been tidying up the cables and dialing in the suspension. Got turnbuckles on the way for the front to put some camber on and a new servo as the current one is not fast enough or powerful enough to get on lock quickly.

will give it a go. Thanks.

To be fair the velcro strap is doing well at holding it in place, one of my cells is slightly smaller though and it is less good at that. Or do you mean stick once side to the battery and one to the chassis? That could work potentially.

I've got some of that on order for now, I hope that will keep it fairly in place but if it takes a knock or a bump its likely to unseat.

I changed the tyres to softer rubber tyres, it's not powerful enough to drift them all the time so went back to the ebay hard tyre set up. I changed to a 23T Pinion from the 27T, this has made the car more controllable on the hard tyre setup. I changed the control setup to F/R so it brakes hard in between, this makes it easier to stop the car wandering if I fluff a transition. Overall much better, look forward to getting it on decent surface to experiment more.

I am having trouble keeping my battery in place on my BSR BT4. It has the tabs to stop it falling out and the strap to keep it on board but it travels inboard and rubs on the belt and the spindle of the motor. I am using NIMH batteries and I am loathed to upgrade to Lipos just to resolve this issue. It has a little battery stopped on the chassis but this will only stop a square body battery, nimh cells are rounded. Does anyone know of any slim battery boxes or trays that I could potentially use? There are various holes from the battery holders that I could use to keep it all in place. Please excuse the untidiness of the chassis, the control gear has since all been replaced and tidied up.

Hi Andy, Thank you for coming back to me on this. I was unsure what to do next. I have ordered some softer tyres to see if that makes it easier to control. I will order some smaller Pinion gears too to experiment. If no joy there then I will look at a 27t motor.

I am getting into Drifiting, I have a Hobbyking BSR BT-4. I have fitted some hard drift tyres and wheels. I have swapped the Diffs from front to rear so the rear is essentially locked. The gearing is a 48dp 83T Spur with a 27T Pinion The battery is 7.2V 4500mAh NiMH The Motor is a 15T brushed Dynamite DYN1172 The car is running in 4wd with both belts on. The ESC is a Hobbywing QUICRUN 1060 Brushed Waterproof ESC The transmitter is a FS-GTC3 I have had a play about with the setup, so far I find it is too powerful and is hard work to drive in a straight line as it seems to want to swap ends all the time, even with rubber tyres on. Is there a gear ratio I should be looking at to enable me to use more than 1/4 throttle to control the car? I would like to change to a hard case LIPO as the current nimh battery slops about and will come into contact with the belt if i'm not careful but I am concerned that changing to a Lipo will make it even more powerful and more of a handful. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Photos for reference.

Hi Terry, that is an amazing bit of knowledge. I will get on the right track now! thank you.

I am looking to get into drifting and have picked up a Sakura chassis. I need to get replacement belts and start looking at ESCs and Motors. I would really appreciate it if anyone can help me to confirm what model I have to start with. I think it is an M chassis.