neiloid1

Great tip for loose rod ends, I agree, I'm not swapping them until I get a problem and I've not had one pop off yet. Do you recommend marigold or thinner doctor style?

I've got HPI touring car rims with rally cross tyres and also a set of Schumacher white dish wheels with pin tyres and both sets are smaller than the stock wheels and tyres so you loose a bit of top end speed as a result. The other thing to consider is you loose a bit of ground clearance but I guess that's less important on road. Fit is perfect and no rubbing the turn buckles/rod ends. Definitely worth a go.

Mainamigo runs these and said that they transformed the ride, but he's an indoor racer and Im not sure as to how much difference you would notice if you are just a basher. Real shame that they are green as that matches nothing and clashes with everything on my rig

If you still have the stock parts you'd make more converting it back to RTR or a roller and selling off the upgrades. Takes more time but makes more money. I'd take the CF upper chassis brace and CF rear shock mount for a start - if you're interested bung me a PM

Shelf Queen ! If you want to off load any carbon or aluminum just let me know Good luck with your 1/10 ventures - got a linky?

Very nice shell and worth the wait, where did you get it done in the end? Is that it for mods now? Hope you continue to get the good results you were getting, she must be pretty dialed now

I put a couple of Hitec HS65MG in mine, just need to shave off a little of the mounting ear to get them snug. You can use RC18 servo savers but need longer screws to mount them but I just used small servo arms and no saver and it's not missed a beat. A great upgrade if you don't want to go single servo. My diffs are still holding up too, which is a constant source of surprise to me. Bought a Mini8, it's pretty bullet proof and don't have the worry that I won't get through a full pack without something failing - highly recommended. Just wish the MLST2 had metal diffs.

Mature = monied from the spec of you 8ight

Jesus Danny, I thought you were a student ! Keep us informed of your race progress.

Oh, one other thing, do you have any play in your front end now Danny ?

Danny, I thought you said you'd spent some money on this ? Looks great !! So I guess the aluminium from Thailand turned up ok? Can't wait to see the new shell. Heres mine neil as promised. Shell will arrive this week I think, I post another pic then. Spec is as follows; > Novak mongoose 10.5t combo > Savox sh-1250mg servo with kimsbrough saver > CF Shock towers and chassis brace (with alloy rear section) > Custom CF battery strap > Alloy front hinge pin holders > Alloy hubs, spindles carriers and wheel hexes > White RPM ball cups > stainless steel screw set > HPI worx emotion wheel with schumacher white rally block tyres > Green anodized lock nuts all round > Phat bodies rear wing > Soft anti roll bar front and rear > Carisma GT14B shocks with soft progressive shock springs Car handles like its on rails on slippy floor. For carpet, medium springs make it hook up nice, too much grip with soft springs. (maybe stiffer anti roll bar may also help. Any questions, feel free to ask, Danny

Looks like Losi have answered the call and are releasing CV drive shafts, TiNi shock shafts, lightweight racing out drives and hard anodized shock bodies You read it here first ! Late April and June release dates. http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?IsNew=True&SortBy=LatestRelease

Second product from DP for the M8 coming soon. Really love their front shock tower. http://www.thetoyz.com/Driven-Productions/Driven-Productions/Gears-Covers/Driven-Productions/15297/ The first people to give us a spur/pinion cover - just a pity the delrin upper chassis brace is so dull looking.

Cheers ! Parts numbers are Ofna tops are indeed #37100 and you need two to do all four and its the longer of the two and the Traxxas ends are #5349. You get six in a pack and you use the original Losi balls top and bottom - the Traxxas balls are huge. Lucky I got them as i landed a 10 foot jump on the left rear and broke the stock shock bottom. All fixed now.

Here's mine. Rims, tyres and lipo's thanks to Danny aka mainamigo. Shell was by Jon Miller of www.rcgraphicworx.com. DP front shock mount. Spring covers and rear axle guards (home made). CF and clear chassis guards from Andy www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95831 Very nice product with holes that line up a treat. HS-225MG ready to instal along with the Traxxas/Ofna shock mod. Hope you like.

Is this available in the UK or Europe, or will I have to import from the US and pay import duty? Thanks in advance. Neil

Thanks for the diagram Rockers. bb2120 is absolutely correct - the polarity of the connecting tabs is clearly shown on the plugs next to each tab, but on the "inner faces" of the plug so they are not visible once the two parts of the plug are connected. Thanks again for all your help, Neil.

My mistake, I meant pinion... Before I do anything I need to get the ball diff sorted and that looks like a trip to the LHS as I'm getting nowhere. I'm waiting for a new carbon chassis that I got off ebay to arrive, then I'm looking to build that up and sell my existing T after using it as a test bed for the bits that I get through for the build. I'm new to all this, only got my T a month ago and I'm addicted. Thanks for the brushless tip, but they just seem too hairy to me at the moment, though their low maintainance is very appealing. Not going to go Lipo though. Looking at something like a Hitec Aggressor FM radio, with a Novak spy and an Orion Baja.. Steering servo would likely be an HS65MG. Deans plugs throughout.

Hi, Still using push on plastic pinion as I've not seen a need to change it. I'll get aluminium when the plastic spur is worn or I want to experiment with gearing. The most important thing at the moment is getting the steering sorted, it seems to be a bit unpredictable at the moment - will turn left but not right etc. Not sure if it's the servo or the steering links... Also need to get the ball diff working - I fully tightened it (I think) backed off an 8th and whilst the motor turned the slipper the out drives only turned slowly and occasionally. So the stock diff is in at the moment and all is well.

Hi, I now have the answer. The out drive cup that is easily removed gives access to the adjuster screw and should thefore exit the transmission on the left when you Mini T is viewed from the rear. Hope this helps others. Cheers, Neil

Hi all, I've looked through all the posts on this site and can see nothing about installing the Losi mini T ball diff. All I want to know is this - I understand that the side with the adjuster screw goes on the opposite side to the motors pinion gear, but which side is the adjuster screw in? One side has the dog bone cup that comes off easily, the other side does not, and I don't want to force things, so I'm guessing that the side which has the cup that comes off easily id the side without the adjuster screw and therefore should exit the gearbox on the same side as the slipper gear.... Confused yet? Thanks, as always, in advance for any advice given. Cheers, Neil

Hi all, Got a package from the States containing a Losi ball diff, slipper clutch & cover which I'm going to install tonight. The question is should I get an aluminium pinion gear for my speed motor and if I do should I also get an aluminium or Ti Slipper clutch gear? Metal on plastic or metal on metal - or is this overkill with a speed motor and 7.2volt battery? Thoughts, comments and guidance, as always, greatly appreciated ! Cheers, Neil Just need MIP CVD and I'm done for a while.

Thanks for the replies. Is there a standard as to which tab on the plug is positive and which is negative? I've got the plugs but there is no guidance included. I could wait for by new battery to come which has a female Deans plug attached but was looking to start soldering before it arrives. Thanks in advance. Neil

Sorry chaps, think I confused you James. Losi Mini Baja - comes with oil shocks, FM transmitter, separate receiver and ESC, ball bearing throughout, speed motor, 3 wire servo. I got my mini T used off Ebay so shouldn't loose too much selling that. - Sorry, I'm confused. I'll check out the Sanwa radio. Why did you choose it? Thanks for the quick replies.

Hi all, I've posted this on another forum, but you chaps are much more helpful, especially as this is a UK site. I'm torn between importing a Baja and settling for the FM transmitter and all the other goodies that it comes with, or sticking with what I've got and buying an FM transmitter and upgrading the electrics for my mini T. Whilst I really like my mini T I can't help thinking that the first options is the better one as I should be able to sell my mini T for what I paid for it making the move to a Baja cheaper than the second option of circa £125 on a new transmitter. Reason for the change - the range on the stock one is poor. I'd also like to know the state its' batteries as the stock one seems very hit and miss. Your thoughts would be appreciated, as would suggestions for an after market transmitter - looking at things like the Hi-Tech Aggressor. Thanks in advance. ps - also after a good 3mm turnbuckle spanner.....