Shokka

I reckon you should've bought a new esc about 3 pages ago lol. Nah, hopefully he can find the issue. I bet its more of a pride thing now, wanting answers!! lol

Have you check the end points. Have a look through your controller manual to set them properly.

i like the idea of a paint splatter design. Do some flurescent yellow flecks and then the rest flurescent pink lol when i get a new shell thats what i'm doing except black and flurescent green.

For ref its usually, with the wires closest to you and the motor shaft facing away, ABC left to right. And on the esc the wires closest to you and battery wires the opposite side, ABC left to right.

I may give this a try up to a point, my steering doesnt hold very well. Although it has improved slightly (on tarmac) using the buggy wheels instead if the stock ribbed ones. Need some decent road tyres really though. They will make all the difference.

I've also been using the ones everclear recommended and everything is good so far. Had a few runs on tarmac on both 2s and 3s with 25/87 gearing. Held just fine, a lot better than others I've tried from eBay that seem to allow the wheels to wiggle a bit which causes issues at high speed as my poor shocks found out once lol.

Yea man I'm sure it'll be grand dude

I believe it's said never to let a lipo cell drop below 2.7v however I'd recommend steering clear of that point completely. Setting your cut off to 3.4 gives you plenty of run time but will stop you discharging your lipo too much and causing damage. Storage is usually around 3.8v per cell. Most decent lipo chargers automatically have storage charge set in them, so you just have to set it to the right cell count and amps and away it goes.

Yea I'd say 3.4 is a good solid cut off point, you may even want to go to 3.2 but I personally never go below 3.4.

It landed a few times on 2 of the wheels, then one, then 2 again for a bit lol. Ended up on the roof .... Think it flipped around 7 / 8 times and all that broke .... I lost the rubber stopper that goes on the top of the antenna tube lol.

I need to take mine to the local skate park and try out some flips. I'm yet to do one, unless crashing and cartwheeling counts XD

It's the esc inside the vehicle that contains the cut off usually. Which can on most escs be programmed to different voltages ranging from off, 2.7,3.0,3.2 etc etc. If you have an ESC that for whatever reason doesn't have a cut off point, you can just attach a low voltage alarm to the balance lead while running and set it to your chosen value. Then just keep an ear out for the ear piercing beeps.

Small bit of tweaking done today. Chucked out the GoolRC esc and lovingly fitted and programmed my new HW sc8 that i got from turok007. Tidied it all up and it's looking good i think. Especially now I'm back on 1/8th buggy wheels thanks to different adaptors, gave it a run the other day and even on 3s no shock pops, that was without any jumping though. One of the wheels nuts came loose, god knows how as I'd tightened them good and proper. Anyway, here it is hooked up to my 4300kv GoolRC motor. The difference swapping the esc made is insane, and still on 2s.

You're really not lol. My esc has decided it won't let me program it through the set key so I'm hoping once i get my cable for the program card all will be well

XD Don't worry mate, I'm more than happy with the deal you gave me.

19/87 is the stock Firestorm gearing. I've got a GoolRC 4300kv motor and it's done well so far. Running 2s and 25/87 gearing it's more than enough speed for bashing. Although I'm also using the GoolRC esc which ... Works well enough, but when i tried with my sc8 it was even better So yea, anything around the 4000kv mark should be ideal and a few of us can vouch for GoolRC cans.

Brilliant that's what i needed, it's actual name. Thanks mate.

Hi. I'm looking for literally just the cable as seen in the picture below. I have the program card but it seems a waste to buy just a whole new set even if it is less than a tenner. So just wondered if anyone had or knew where to get JUST the cable? Can't find it on its own anywhere. Cheers.

I have pretty much the same GoolRC setup as noj has described and can vouch that it is a perky upgrade for sure. It was my first branch out into brushless too so wanted something cheap to test and it turned out to be pretty decent.

looks awesome. That shell looks boss, especially now it's been bashed a bit

Stock for the regular storm is 19/87 i think so ive only upped the pinion. I may next use the 77 spur to go 25/77 and see how she runs. Definitely only 2s on that though i think. Either that or get a lower kv motor and try 3s

Okay so i took it out again today, for a gentle spin on a nice smooth car park. I go over a small drain and bosh, the front left shock unthreads the shaft from the bottom bit (what's that bit called?) That attaches to the a arms. Definitely need some new shocks i think.the gearing is spot on for 2s though. Running 25/87. Motor gets warm but just ... Mildly warm and no heat on the esc or battery, but still has a great kick. Gonna be trying it on 3s soon so will probably bring down the gearing a bit as it is a 4000kv so i reckon 3s would get some heat in it.

Still awaiting reply to pm

Would i need the program card for it to be able to run properly?

If it can be run sensorless I'm interested in the xerun esc.