t2boats

@rct congrats on your new RC! 3S is where I like to run my Outlaw, can still drive it steadily but also have that punch for some serious performance. The 13.5T motor (which is somewhere around the 3000 to 3300kv ish!?!) will be fun on 3S too. Also worthwhile to pick up the ali motor mount aswell, minimise any flex in the gearbox between the pinion and spur so will help things last.

I’ve never used the stock esc in the 959, I fitted a different one. But mine now runs 3S and it’s mental, and brilliant! However, I’ve since bought the M10DB which uses the same stock esc as the 959, and as said above the manual doesn’t mention 3S, but there are article reviews of the 959 a few years back where they tested the car on 3S and it worked fine with the stock esc. I briefly tried a 3S in the M10DB and for some reason it didn’t like it, as the revs built to max it would maintain its peak rpm for only 1 or 2 seconds then would trip out and the revs would drop to nothing as the esc would go into a safe mode. Switch it off, back on and it’s back to normal again. So I’m sticking with a 2S in the M10DB.

Hello all, as the title says really. Wondering if someone out there has any old 1/6 GV Rambo spares kicking around, particularly a 1st gear... I’ve found some gears in Australia - but would take a while to arrive and would rather give my money to someone here in the uk.

Yeah it takes some cleaning! I’ve got a little air compressor so I blow off whatever I can at first, either brush off some more or wait until the sand becomes dry then blow the rest off. Then spray it all with either wd40 or 3-in-1 oil spray. Always worked for me!

I’ve just fitted the one battery tray to my Hyper 7, I either use a single 4S or 3S lipo.

@Welsh40 ah mate unlucky! Yeah it’s best to just renew the electrics. And running on sand is absolutely great, but the cleaning afterwards Receivers are cheap as chips, the FlySky receiver binds to the eTronix Rx no problems (they’re the same thing!). But for quick postage I’d go for one from modelsport again, or see if someone in the UK on eBay are selling the FlySky 3ch receivers. The twitching could just be your receiver. But, as for steering servo’s - are ten a penny, so many to choose from. Could be a good opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful servo. I’ve used allsorts of makes over the years, my Outlaw now has a TowerPro 20kg servo fitted. Very powerful! You can try Turnigy, and recently I’ve bought and tried a HDKJ 15kg - proved itself very well indeed, and they’re waterproof.

@TMaxxDave & @Markswebpages thanks for the heads up chaps! Much appreciated. With mine being low geared and mostly running at slower speeds (for fpv) then hopefully it won’t experience the shaft problem. The propshafts I’ve fitted appear to be a lot beefier than the stock shafts I took off. With me fitting the LWB chassis I bought different shafts thinking they’d fit straight away - I was wrong - I had to shorten them slightly so they must’ve been off another Traxxas model?!? Anyway, they’ve worked out well in the end and move the car back n fore. In a few weeks when I’m back home I’ll set up the FPV and give it a try.

You’ve got me thinking now?! I’m sure mine’s 19/55?? I could be wrong.. Do you use a different size gear carrier @evssv ?

Sorry John, posted same time then, ha!

They can come either glued or separately bought. Once they're glued they can be a pig to remove, there's some methods out there like baking the bond free, using chemicals, or heat lamp. I just buy a new set of tyres and wheels of my own choice, like a set of 2.2" ali beadlocks which I've recently picked up to go inside the stock tyres.

Diffs are fine, I'm running 3800kv / 23t pinion / 120A esc on 3S with no issues at all, it's handled it. You can spend mega money on an expensive brand name RC - and still crunch the diffs from an awkward landing and break other components. For £125ish it is what it is. A decent base to start modding if you want that sort of thing. Brushless combo's can be had (or even make up your own) for under £50, there's so many to choose from.

Yes, thicker the oil, the more resistance the diff has to spin up a wheel, it'll engage a more direct drive to both wheels and not favour the easiest. The Mauler on the other hand is built as a crawler, so it doesn't have the familiar planet/moon gears as a normal differential does. The crawlers I've seen simply have two gears set at 90° to each other driving a solid axle. The Outlaw isn't designed as a crawler, more for off-road at much higher speeds.

@Nickarla You could try extremely thick diff oil in both diffs, would give a more positive drive to both wheels on the axle and still offer some steering capabilities.

You could fit those yes, but locking the diffs on a car with such a wide track as what the Outlaw has would make steering very poor, and put tremendous strain on the drivetrain.

Yeah it works fine, a nice strong bond, so long as the faces are clean.

You must have an Aladdin's Cave up there

We call it Ali Brazing on the ships, it's surprisingly quick!

Not sure if you have the same model IMAX as I do but it can also charge NIMH's too using another program! But yeah, I've found Lipo's leagues ahead of NIMH's..

Ha! Don't ya just love the random finds.. at first I thought the truck was a Kyosho Ultima until I read your post.

You could stick with that and run 3S..? That way you'd have best of both worlds, excellent acceleration and respectable top end speed.

@Euphoria which kv are you going for? I tried mine with a few different motors, one being a 5200kv on 2S, it was lairy to say the least. Then tried 3S... (only for a brief moment) to put it simply, "if it had wings".... it was horrendously fast in a straight line, corners were alright once the traction overcame the g-forces. But no matter what tyres I fitted it was just too much, so went for the 4300kv in the end. That still returns a nice high top end speed and off the line acceleration complies with the chassis setup.

I just used the original and added an interface plate to go between the stock skid and new gearbox, that way I'm not butchering the original skid plate. So far it's performed well, had it down on the rocks at the beach a few weeks back with the Ascender. My only doubt are the short driveshafts with the 540, they're not meaty at all as they're meant for the 370, but should a wheel become stuck between two rocks for instance and you engage a bit too much drive, then I reckon one would give way with the 55T 540 it's got. So I avoided that sort of driving angle, like I would with any RC. But slow-speed crawling control now is immense and effortless.

Good luck on finding what model you want anyway guaranteed you'll go brushless!

I went for higher kv straight away - it handles it easily. So with the 4300kv, 11t pinion (not sure if that's stock size or not?!), 120A esc set up with fairly advanced timing on 2S it notched up close to 40mph, 3S propels it to 47.

@Nickarla err crikey to be honest I couldn't tell you, I don't really look or else I'd probably end up buying another model.. I took the brushed route with the Outlaw, knowing the two versions were the same other than the running gear, I already had plenty of various bits n pieces laying around to make up a brushless combo. The Outlaw set me back £125 at the time if I remember right, approx £75 to 80 cheaper than the brushless version. Seen as I had the brushless motors and esc's at home, there's no point in spending that extra money. So I went for the brushed version while I waited on a few parts to arrive to begin changing things to how I wanted it (the 23t pinion and ali motor mount being two of them!). It's ended up a very sturdy, quick, and solid car. It's been undergoing a few changes the last few months whenever I get some time, namely the body and wheels (which have taken an eternity to arrive...) I'll be posting that up in its thread soon hopefully.