crazyfrog

Its a shame most of you cant model and 3d print. I'd have that modelled and printed in a couple of hours.

You can usually do a repair with shoe goo and plasterers tape. I’m guessing it’s ripped around the pull start

I’ve had an HPI Trophy Trophy Truggy 4.6 in storage for a couple of years ready to convert to brushless, in the time I’ve been out of the hobby I’ve bought some new tools including a 3d printer and ultrasonic cleaner. The car was very clean before going into storage but smells a little (slight BO/weed smell from grass/oil) so I decided to do a full tear down and clean out in my new 15 Litre ultrasonic cleaner. And yes the water was clear before starting. Here’s the car clean I’ve still got it partially disassembled while I wait on hpi 101674 motor Mount and 101801 gearbox mounting plate, 7k, 5k and 10k cst diff oil and 22x688 Abec 5 bearings. For the motor I could have gone for something lighter but here’s the 4074 2250kv and hobby king ESC I bought.

Hows that motor over stock? Looks like a quicrun

Seriously it would really help me out if someone would measure the stock o-ring with calipers. It's a common thing where these o-rings stretch and become unusable and could potentially save people from needing to buy new fuel tanks for £15

I thought the guide I linked to had some cheap tamiya CVDs linked but I couldn't see the link. It's probably another guide that I've seen but I'll try to link to that when I get home

Here's the guide which gives you links and part numbers for different CVDs.

Completely wrong!!! Its all to do witht the exhuast manifold not the engine itself. I was speaking to the guys at the local model store and they verified that there are two main sizes of silicone gaskets and the trophy uses the smaller size. They sold me some answer rc gaskets which are about half the thickness of the BSP(which I bought expecting to fit a trophy) and the HPI 87049 which I own already from when I fixed up and resold a hellfire.

While I'm on does anyone know the o-ring size for the fuel tank lid?

The HPIracing website says its for a K series engine so I'll not bother.

Is anyone selling part 101002 exhaust ghaskets

Building this up. Way better than a trophy

Its stated very clearly on the Flux scream specs 5.5mm bullet. http://hpiracing.world/en/part/101713

Yup HPI the parent company rebranded the hot bodies lightning 2 to hpi trophy 3.5 and shrunk the engine, its understandable as the D8 is clearly better and the lightning needed some major changes to make a better car which ended up being the d8. Here's a pic of the original chinese clone notice the similarities to the kyosho and the differences in the suspension arms. I can assure you the chassis and most parts are the same. Also notice how the front upper suspension arm brace is metal not plastic

I'm not stating an opinion I'm stating the facts that you are using the same weak materials with a worse mounting method than stock to those same plastic tabs, which is not a capable method to Brace the car. You should look at mods other people do as your brace mod is poor. There is a simple solution as to how you managed to bend your chassis in the way you said you did and that's if the rear brace was simply loose or not connected as a bend in the chassis would simply crack the plastic tabs that hold the rear brace lol.

I'm saying you're doing it wrong!! Your brace design is weak, cheap and a terrible match for the buggy and I'm going out of my way to discourage anyone from doing it. From experience none of the dozens of buggies I've fixed and resold have bent chassis there, its always between the front and rear braces. I jump my trophy flux and never had a bend between the rear gearbox and support that wasn't caused by a single weak brace, the plastic tab always breaks first and adding a second brace puts more stress on that weak point.

I own two trophy flux buggies and recondition non working trophy 3.5s every week, I know where they bend. if yours is bending in that place you need a different type of brace not two weak ones.

lmao like I said thats not the area where trophy buggy chassies bend. Adapting a truggy style brace would be effective as a stronger brace as it wouldnt put as much stress on the plastic tabs that hold the brace. Truggy owners can do the best mod and I dont think this would work on a trophy buggy flux, only the truggy. An end to end brace would also work

Who knew that the Hpi trophy originally started as a Chinese clone of the kyosho mp7.5 with all the optional kyosho pats added.

That extra brace is useless the chassis is meant to flex a little and that brace stops that but more importantly it doesn't reinforce the chassis as that's not the area where the chassis bends. The weak areas are between the front and rear braces around the differential, an end to end brace fixes this.

yeah we'll do that

not to leeds I'm towards preston. Could you post and price? I need a front and rear set to mount these https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F85107%5F%5FTrackStar%5F1%5F8%5FAluminum%5FShock%5FAbsorber%5FSet%5F106mm%5F2%5FSN%5F814102.html

Yes that bit. The shocks I bought have a 5mm wide bushing so need to standoffs with a 5mm width. I need to know to the mm as the 6mm standoffs I have dont fit.

Could someone tell me the width of the D8/Vorza shock mounts. I want to fit some shocks with a 5mm top shock mounting hole.

Not even vaguely similar at all. I'd like to buy a Carson King of dirt not a 'same' car under a different brand.