sputnik

Proline D8T Bulldog shell fitted on a Jammin Hong Nor X2 CRT - with the Chad Bradley modded rear tower and reversed front mounts. Rig on the left obvi. Tower / mount mods - Note fronts are reversed and note the lowered rear mount - holes drilled - 16.5mm lower [ each ]

Twinning ? So Im much happier with these 1950KV motors from Sky RC / Toro in the truggy. Plenty of power - run nice smooth and cool. I need to work on my tires and gearing in the hyper st short course methinks. Twin'd it with a new [ to me ] scratch build of a Hing Nor X2 truggy + more kingheadz bling Runing Castle Mamba Monster / MM2 - and these toro motors - burnt up the first toro 150A ESC [ hear their junky ] My sons Hong Nor X2 crt is near identical - but with a castle 2200KV motor.

I was under the impression low cost computer power supplies like those found in rack mount servers from Dell were the cats arse for this kind of thing? takes a bit of customizing - but in the end a good cost/benefit ratio ?

Well well well ... I thought I bought them out - but their listing 2 at a time - this is cheeeeeap! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Picco-Piston-Sleeve-28-Pullstart-Part-1371-OFNA-51549-/161772199173 $35 shipped for a .28 piston and liner - go get em boys!

So .. OFNA had a picco clearance on old parts. I picked up [ 3 ] Picco P3 .28 P/S for "Pullstart" engine sets for cheap! I got one - compared it to my damaged p/s for the P3 Factory Team Turbo I had. I checked it over with digital calipers and the "pullstart" version is identical to the non - pullstart turbo version I had. That myth that they differed is debunked. Further research from a US based importer who was bringing in the Picco 5TR/TX engine line for a few years confirms in a Q/A thread about them - that the timing on the cranks is different .... Picco P3 Turbo .28 vs Picco 5TR/Tx .28 Crank/crank timings = different Headbutton - different Crankcase = different Cooling Head = different Piston / Sleeve = same Conrod = same desotoracing.com is now the current importer of Picco engines They have the conrods in stock .... http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/product.php?productid=6891&cat=223&page=1 Wristpins http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/product.php?productid=6892&cat=223&page=1 Piston/Wristpin Clips http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/product.php?productid=6893&cat=223&page=1 Wheelspin Models website indicates that the P3 Turbo .28 and the 2012 Picco 5TR .28 p/s/liner are interchangeable ... so then hence the Team Spec 5TR .28 parts are as well. poster RCRenew was the direct importer of the Picco .21/.28 5TR/Tx line for several years. Here's his comments. http://www.rctech.net/forum/13225694-post1239.html hope this helps some folks locate and use picco .28's Picco P3 .28 Turbo/Non Turbo ... Pullstart / Non Pullstart - below Picco Boost 5TR .28 - below [ opposite side of sleeve / liner ]

Almost got the twins ready to roll ... Lefty has been aces so far ... jsut missing motor mount for righty and she'll be ready for action ...

Pro Line Bulldog for D8T fits it with a few mods as well - chad bradley ran that for a bit. theres interwebz images of it ...

They've heard you :-) If its the same units I had in my hands here in the states about 3-4 weeks ago [ and I suspect it is ] - its alot of hyper 8 chassis and arms w/ driveline and steering knuckles of hyper ss - with diffs of a hyper 7. Electric and nitro versions were on display. Going to be a lot of what youve already seen before - mashed up and layed out a little different. Over here OFNA calls it the Ultra LX3

Seems USA will be last to get the goods, should be availed to you all "over there" pretty soon. Got word the USA units are in boxes on a boat and another 1-2 months before theyre offloaded. So .. keep yer eyes peeled folks Not sure what it will be called in EU / Asia, but in USA - its an OFNA and its an Ultra LX3 ... Think ... Hyper 7 meets Hyper SS meets Hyper 8.5 with a few new twists and tweeks. RTRs Nitro and Electric versions. Not sure if there is a truggy in the mix - didnt get the impression there was. Designed to compete with a Mugen race bugy or XRay or Hot Bodies D8 ??? Remains to be seen. This aint no ground up redesign, its a mashup of existing tech ... refined.

Get yer mits on a .45 ACP 1911 :-) ballistic nirvana

T Maxx guys are using firm large rubber o rings from Grainger - 2 of them on the outside of the tires - badlands to reduce the balooning

This happens frequently to my hyper 7 when the front upper control arm has a brokem knuckle, stripped bolt - or a bent turnbuckle. Shim the inside of the metal front steering knuckles either behind the inner bearing a few mm, or on the outside of the inner bearing - between the universal and the steering knuckle bearing - to push the simple end [ no u joint ] of the driveshaft deeper into the outdrive cup.

Do they discount the BLUE ones?

Friggin Awesome! Love the 8 / 8.5 platform. Never cared for the 9.0's personally or those that have come after ... I too sold off my 8.5 buggies ages ago - I had the first [ USA ] retail sale 8.0 back in the day - the day the crate offloaded the UPS truck at OFNA's building. Regretted selling them still to this day even after I replaced em. Wish Id never sold the original I had. Best cornering buggy Ive driven. I think it can compete at CLUB level to this day - jsut put her on a diet. Personally Id pull the motor off and replace the bearings ... soak the the carb in nitro fuel over night - sans rubber bits. I suspect it will be a challenge to tune as all the o rings and gaskets will likely have cracked - and cause air leaks. Love that radio too bro! Just like mine Futaba 3PK :-) Resurrecting my nitro mills here : You can see the stack of bearings there ... thats why you pullstart was hard to pull ... the oils from the nitro left behind are GOO ... I had ot replace mine - front and mains. See the glove and hotplate? $17 at Walmart - heat bare engine block with bearings up to 220* F - wear gloves - bang on wood block - steel bearings fall right out. Install same way - use crank as the bearing press. Freeze new bearings, re heat block - there YouTubes on this. simple! We both seem to have a keen eye for the Vintage Gear :-) Vintage Go Engine = check Vintage Hyper 8.5 = check Vintage Futaba 3PK = check Soul bruthahs! lol .... My two Hyper 8's on their way to ressurrection These would be raceworthy by now if it werent for like 5 or 6 other builds distracting me. Ive been on an "electric truck" bender as of late. But my Nitro race weekend rigs are next priority. Best of luck with your re-build man. Long live the 8! Drop me a note if you need any reminders or assistance on how things go together etc ... Parts or whatnot. MORE PICS :-)

Id say that budget gets you into a 2nd hand quality rig - sans electronics. MT sized brushless is Mamba Monster 2 ESC and a 2200KV motor - new kit pulls on those two items alone exceed $250 USD. I just dont think a brushless MT that doesnt spend more time on the shelf with broken transmission bits and misc cheap rtr parts being replaced - is to be had on that budget - ready to bash. My rc rules are : 3 diffs - no transmissions Cost effective parts availability [ cuz kids break stuff - alot ] Durability ... When its time to run ... its time to run .... and when its time to wrench - its time to wrench. Less wrench, more run for the buck ... is key. Good compromise might be a hyper 7 buggy as a Shortcourse truck - gets you "truck" - just not Monster.

Ive used the paper method prolly 100+ times over the years on my nitros ... However; after using it and setting gear mesh 100's of times, I feel like I have the gap / play ... down by sight, feel and sound without the paper process. I dont use it anymore. For a beginning modeler - paper is likely a good idea until you get the setup down to second nature.

Update: This part is a bust ... The ST Pro style center braces are a slightly different design - and will not directly bolt up. This will work - but requires some mods to the center brace [ which I may ultimately do. It would save weight too .

Still holding out faith for this 1950KV motor. Have it on good authority he is pushing around an all alum tmaxx rather well on 4S with a proper ESC and the 1950kv motor I have there.

Updates: Sorry for the delay in videos. Truth is - so far the actual running of this beast has been a BUST! Hahahaha .... s'ok tho - I think ive got it sorted Had I gone with my spare Castle 2200kv system vs. the recommended unit seen in pix from SkyRC/Toro - the story prolly would be different. Ive managed to melt the ESC in just 2 packs of running. 4S pack at 50C did her in. Granted it got very warm - but all our cars were running warm that day - about 89*-95* F outside air temps - and the loose sandy dirt track we were on was conducive to excessive wheelspin and slip - my castle systems came off track hot too - theyre fine. Im geared ok I think with this truck - stock Hyper 7 center spur at 47T and a 16T motor pinion. Tires are smaller than buggy - Shortcourse 2.2/3.0 ... I dont think im over geared at all - perhaps others can advise. Is it possible to be undergeared - in the context of getting ESC too hot? Personally I think its just a POS cheap chinese hunk of steaming excriment ESC and thats what happened. Looks to me like a got a couple of over priced 1950Kv motors and some paperweights made of Asian dung disguised as 150A Speed Controllers for $150 USD. meh. The running - when it did run - truck had no ballz ... it drove "heavy heavy heavy" ... extreme NOSE Down attitude when airborn. Will adjust shock oil weights and spring rates on all 4 corners. Motor and battz felt "soft" as we say - like when stuff is rather warm and just not outputting fresh pack and cool motor - power. Suspect that was from the garbage ESC that was prolly smoking like a freight train from the first lap - lol. Can you tell I hate that stupid thing? Motor felt very underpowered for the weight of the truck. Not only that - but when I went to test things out and remove electronic bits - grub screw on pinion rounded out and crapped the bed. Meh .. $13 USD 16T pinion down the crapper. I jsut went Medieval on its Azz and got it off ... Corrective actions in process: Putting this pig on a DIET. Shock rebuilds and spring rate testing Starting with one of these ... Then I will take the Center Brace system apart and lighten it on the drill press ... swiss cheese away some of the phat. Perhaps go for a stock hyper 7 front diff vs the 8 gear steel cased spyders Looking at front shock tower - and adding some holes to it strategically to remove some grams Titanium screws Considering relocating the RX box to the rear of vehicle somehow - to reduce nose weight. Perhaps even forgo a BOX for that altogether. May try and affix a sturdy lexan wing - a stubby lil one kinda like the LOSI Mini T stadiums have - just scaled up for 1/8th scale SC Air Vents / Holes in body to add more airflow over components Hoping the new Castle ESC mated to the motor + some of the above will cure the cars in air attitude and flight to make it more driveable and enjoyable - now its just a big phat endo machine - and not much fun. [ other than looking bad ass going on the flats ]

For the record - there is a New Hyper car coming out soon. Its an OFNA labeled hobao made car called the Ultra LX3. Looked pretty nice. cross of a Hyper 8 / hyper 9 and a Hyper SS [ imho ] ... I think they will have 4 or 5 new versions - nitro / electric / pro kit / rtr - should be interesting.

the maker - Hong Nor - recently sold the company - brand and intellectual property to a new company who created Hong Nor XYZ, LLC or something .... there is no current Hong Nor parts inventory to be had really - other than taiwan ebay sellers - until the transition is complete. Id expect a couple more months for the distribution channels to get re stocked. US folks are S.O.L. - because new hong nor has decided to be their own distribution and start from scratch - vs using the established OFNA pipeline. good luck mate - ive been needing hong nor parts for a few weeks now .... ebay is the only source Im aware of. For the time being

sounds like a loose glow plug. 1st thing - make sure all head bolts are snug - do NOT over tighten. Change glow plug and new copper crimp washer full charge on the igniter - so its getting the plug nice n warm. Make sure the glow plug youre using is proper spec for the motor you have in your SS. Stock ss now ship with Force Engines as I recall [ in the usa ] - Im not positive but - Ive been to the ofna factory over 100 times and gotten plugs and parts recommendations over the years - never had them send me away with an OS plug. Pretty sure we ran McCoys MC8 and MC9 s in ours. Depends on your fuel and nitro content and shims as well ... Id just make sure its NOT a turbo plug - unless your engine has a turbo head buttton [ which I doubt ] http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/beginners-85/8376353-good-guide-selecting-correct-glow-plug.html

Any idea of the cost to box these and send across the pond to USA via UPS or similar? Super tempted - would pay shipping and boxing ... Everything in the remaining pictures is included - correct? I could do without the tires to save on shipping ...

Thank you .... My build thread is here : http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/206471-hyper-st-pro-eshort-course-conversion-build-2015/ A bloody fortune - LOL Mainly all new from scratch Hyper ST Pro bits - as youd expect ... TEam Assoc - SC8 Body Shell - $45 usd TEam Assoc - Rear Bumper Kit - $20 USD TEam Assoc - Rockstar/Makita sticker kit - ebay $21 usd Stock Front Bumper / modded and mated to a RPM SC10 front bumper kit [ see build thread ] RC Monster Brushless Motor Mount for Hyper 7/8 LOSI Battery Tray Jammin Hong Nor Side Mudguards Jammin Hong Nor e-conversion kit Rx Box - modded - see build thread Hyper 7 suspension [ arms - universal drive shafts etc ... ] Hyper 8 rear upper camber links Hyper 9 CNC Rear Hub Carriers 2 Front ST Pro CNC towers run on front AND rear Off the top o' the old noggin - thats the majority of non Hobao parts or out of the ordinary. I did a pretty detailed build thread - so that will prolly cure any un answered questions. Ping me anytime if anything else needs more detail. Thanx again Sputnik

Hey there C ... Hey there Mr. C ... Sadly the older 9.5 hong nor diff parts are not interchangeable [ internal diff gears/pins/washers/paper gaskets only ] ... outdrive cups and gear boxes are NOT compatible. Reason is and this affects your direct needs for a cnc hingepin / toe in plate ... the gearboxes are much smaller in diemension - height and width. You'll need X1/X2 parts in this situation. I think King Headz still inventory sweet CNC bits for your bent up ones .. if that suits your fancy. PS - took my my Jammin Hong Nor e-Truggy out for a bash at a little track along with my Hyper ST Pro Short Course ... the Hong Nor truggy ruled the day. X2 is Geared perfectly for the 2200KV and handled fantastic! I may make an SC8 1/8th scale type conversion for the Jammin X2 truggy like I did the ST Pro. Same concepts - or follow in your lead and make a hong nor X2 buggy ... but a e-shortcourse conversion with a SC10 lid on it.