sputnik

^^^ She looks RTG .. Read' Ta Go!

This just popped up on my radar ... Think hes open to selling it as a ROLLER [ no electronics ] for a lessor price. You could likely sell the electronics here or ebay simply, ... and / or trade for Nitro Gear. Most people are eager to go the other way - Nitro To Electric. Which I recommend a new guy to do anyhow then get the nitro stuff needed. Defo get the CNC Alum Chassis braces he has for it - then get yourself some ST Pro CNC Shock towers $40 USD approx for a pair - and you pretty much have an ST Pro there.

Pretty much how its done ... I take a flathead screwdriver - after I do essentially what you did - and make a mark across the midrange needle screw and the carb body and fill in the small etched mark with blk sharpie ... the hyper mid range needles are know to "walk" on ya and vibrate them selves out. Once you got the needle where ya like it and things running good. Mark it so ya know where to set it back. Once the mid is set and running ... no need to fiddle with IT again. Make all future adjustments on High / Low and idle screws. I tend to run my hyper .21 8 port mills on the warm side - 250*-270* F doesnt scare me [ on 30% nitro ] - you wont get a lot of life out of em but, they will scream if piped right and a stiff set of clutch springs to get the revs up before the clutch pops - gives some solid punch - which these mills lack [ bottom end torque ] Have fun

.28 is a CC displacement metric - specious at best though ;-) Its a big block and should push a truggy just fine. Not all nitro mills are created equal tho mate. Most truggies at pro level competition are racing @ .21 displacement - and they haul the mail. Racing A Mains for a solid hour with fuel pit stops only. Thats some bad ass'ry right there.

I presonally dont think Id ever buy a new kit again for a BASHER. Race kit like a Mugen / Hot Bodies D8T - yes perhaps. 1. skip 1/10th scale and go straight to the man stuff with 1/8th - durability. 10th is for kids and racers in that class. 2. since youre intrigued by nitro - perhaps getting a solid used nitro conversion vehicle. So if the Methane fumes over come you and you must burn nitro - you can put all the nitro gear on it and go do your thing. 3. Keep in mind entry level kits are heavy on plastic bits and essentially designed to be Loss Leaders to sell replacement and hop up parts. Like giving you a boss printer for $15 and selling you replacement ink supplies for a bloody fortune. 4. Buggy vs. Truggy - if park bashing - truggy ftw - track time ... either. More people running 8th scale buggy typically to race against. Im partial to truggies personally. 5. I think one of the best bangs for your buck - run time vs wrench time - Hyper ST Pro Truggy. Try and grab a solid 2nd hand one and you can refresh it with replacement parts as needed off ebay and UK distributors. Still has strong parts support for the consumeable bits. Driveshafts / bearings / arms etc. I can get fresh chassis off ebay for $70 shipped. Might just need to inventory parts like lower A Arms and Front and Rear driveshaft CVD universals. 6. If the Hyper ST doesnt suit your fancy [ its well supported here on these forums btw too ] Perhaps a newer vehicle like a Hot Bodies [ HPI ] D8T Truggy will have good parts support. Its a nice truck - hell you could race it respectably too if ya wanted in on that action. Looks tuff. Tho - not alot tuffer than a well done Hyper ST imho. Best of luck!

Pull the fuel line off the nipple on the exhaust pipe. clean it off and blow into it ... should push fuel from the tank into the fuel line leading to carb. Listen for airleaks - inspect for same. Before trying to run the car ... with no glow ignitor on ... hold a finger over the exhaust pipe outlet, crank motor over a bit ... should PRIME the fuel intake lines to the carb. Dont over do it ...

If Im not mistaken the Hyper SST truggy chassis and the Hyper GTe onroad car share same or similar chassis. Pretty sure once you got the hing pins and diff hold down bits in place all hyper 7 running gear is just bolt on. Hinge pin holders - rear toe in plates etc... Like the motor forward Idea ... however not sure what you'll do on a high speed car for spur? Will it clear chassis or will you need to relieve another slot for it on the opposite side of the diff? was one of the issues we had with some of our first iteration of brushless truggy conversions - before Hong Nor et al made real kits.

I'll jut say Happy Thanksgiving from us Yanks to my UK bros ... early of course. Cant wait to get me mitts on some o' dat Turkey ... gobble gobble.

It most always amazes me when I refresh a rig ... how much stuff was actually tweaked and jacked up and she still ran, but ya cant notice it out in the field. Shocks, nuts and bolts, snapped bits , bent driveshafts. Ive got a metric ton of those dog bone style driveshafts man - i should box em up and send -vs scrap metal recycler - lol

I luv this damn thang - one of the best rc tools I own. It gets used most every sitting, and its a champion. It has plenty of torque to get out the tuff stuff, and a really nice clutch to do just fine screwing into soft plastics - it will clutch out and not strip the plastics out. This little thing is a workhorse. Get a backup battery and 2 batss will let you wrench till the cows come home. Im running the OFNA metric tip sets and 5 - 8 - 10mm nut drivers as needed. Very pleased with mine

I stumbled across this thread here - and was interested - as I have 2 [ 1 brand new in box still ] Hyper ST mini's. Essentialy same truck just 1st iteration and a bit shorter.... a good bit shorter actually. So I grabbed a TT chassis and the needed electric conversion bits from Nitrohouse.com as they still stock all things Hobao here [ usa importer ] Anyhow, I read a really good thread on this car on rctech.net forum thats quite long and it lists the answers to most all the queries you have on this car. RCTech.net Thread for the Hyper 10TT [ 100+ pages long ] - http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/437241-hyper-tt-4wd-1-10th-truggy-thread.html Steering knuckles seem to be main issue Front diff top plate over the sterring rack / ackerman - needs to be CNC. Car shares many parts with the Hyper 10SC and Hyper ST mini ... SNR Graphite products here in USA and STRC - both have hopup parts in inventory for this car. Im going to sell them both I think ...as I already have 3 Jammin CRT .5 minis. SNR - http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=34_2 STRC - http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=61 Those driveshafts tho' bro ... ohhh yaa STRC - Hyper SC10 - http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=47

My IP seems to be blocked at this forum atm - weird ... https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Hyper+engine+tuning+guide+ofna+forum+site:www.ofna.com My buddy who raced fro OFNA wrote several solid Hyper & Tuning guides for setting al 3 needles. Need to find it in there if ya can. User RobB - your midrange [ the arrow point ] needle is NOT near flush AND is not in alignment with the High Speed needle ... Engine seems as if it is running lean - not enough fuel. 2 basic rules for nitro engine tuning. 1. Dont turn needles for adjustment on a COLD Engine - bring it up to temp then tune ... 200-240* F 2. Dont tune engine on < 1/2 Tank of fuel ... Get it up to temps - fill the tank - then play with needles. Your midrange needle appears to be turned in too far atm. Its also important to understand how these Hyper midrange needles on a 3 needle carb function. There are 4 holes in the midrange needle screw - one of them needs to be near alignment with the ANGLE of the High speed needle/fuel intake shaft. I will draw a diagram and post it ...

Responded to this in the other Hyper ST owners thread

If I may make a suggestion ... after tiring of breaking Hobao Steering knuckles - even the $50 USD PCR CNC ones over and over again at the screw holes - they kept ripping out or cracking, I opted for the superior design [ imho ] of the Jammin / Hong Nor T-Bolt Steering knuckles. As they dont "THREAD" into the knuckle. My steering knuckle breakage issues have seriously diminished to near nil ... I detailed it mainly in one of my build threads but heres the gist.

whooops - wrong thread :-)

Yes - Landscape Irrigation PVC plumbing parts. Not overly cheap - some of those fittings get expensive. Home Depot here in USA - sells Contractor Packs of the fittings and the best way to mass cut the pipe pieces once you measure to fit your area and vehicles ... is a cut list and a miter/chopsaw. Zip Zip Zip. Lucky for me my lil bro has a proper woodshop with all the good stuff ... everything is loose fit and not glued - works just fine. Use a rubber mallot to bang it all together and apart if needed Thanks for the kind words gents. Thought about making up some plans / drawings and a parts list - but then as you can see by the RC Garage area - Ive got one too many projects underway ... I may get to it as Id prefer to add more rows/shelves as Ive added a bunch more completed rigs - vs. hanging them on the walls.

You will need the newer X2 or X1 buggy's shorter Center Diff posts - dont get the old X1 CRT tall motor mount because you just got the diff with the smaller spur :-)

So Ive got the ol Hyper ST Pro electric conversion - conversion to Short Course truck back on the bench ... the swap over to a Hyper 7L +4mm buggy chassis is almost done. The ol ST Pro chassis is looking sad and lonely now ... Fear not - she shall become a fresh new ST Prop truggy run by Lipo Power .... Got a new lid to spray for the buggy layout - SC10 style lid - hope it will fit right.

X3 Sabre center diff = No Go - IIRC. Just order the center from them - Ive gotten every single part Ive ever ordered from them - in the last year and Ive got an easy $1,000 USD spent with them and seller special-rc - thats a LOT of parts bro. Dont sweat it .. are you after just the spur or do you need the diff parts too. Hell I can send you some stuff [ from USA ]

Im starting a couple of builds / rebuilds ... 1. Hong Nor Jammin CRT .5 mini Truggy - Nitro via Picco .12 2. Hong Nor Jammin CRT .5 mini Truggy - Nitro 2 Electric Conversion via the Hong Nor kit 3. Hyper ST mini to Hyper 10TT - electric Ive got two of the Hyper ST Mini [ nitro ] gunna put one of them on a 10TT chassis and convert it to electric - zoom zoom ...

^^^^ I saw in your post the one major thing Im still missing ... the interwebz and a nice large wall mounted screen / monitor. Wireless sucks out in the garage, and cable connectivity doesnt yet exist. Ahh these 1st World Problems ... Need to fix it.

Penguin Case from Fryes Electronics for the charging station on wheels ... 2 OFNA 18 Amp Power supplies underneath ... Little PVC modular rack system I slapped together - much room for improvement, as I was kinda winging it and ran out of proper parts - but its expandable and now I need a few more rows :-) Single Car side of the 3 Car Garage - Man / RC Enclave. The missus gets the whole other 2 car side ... sighhhh. Pretty much my overall RC storage / work areas. Revised the left hand side now with a much better clear plastic bin system underneath the counters - with tires and spare parts organized by vehicle, and / or engines.

I think its because these parts are not in current production runs ... so they are becoming more and more RARE. My understanding is this: Hong Nor used multiple production facilities around them to produce parts - not so much they had 1 large production facility with equipment and warehouse. So all the machine molds / templates and software files all have to be brought home in-house to the new owners. From there THE NEW OWNERS will have to establish who will be making what and where - and normal production should resume. And ... inventories from all over have to be consolidated to the new facilities. The new owners also told OFNA they would not continue working with them as the MAIN / SOLE USA Importer distributor. Hobao tried the same thing a couple years ago and gave it to HPI - but that failed miserably for Hobao in the USA. OFNA has it back now but there was a major funk with hyper/hobao stuff for 2-3 years [ here in the US ] - Hyper/Hobao parts all in stock now in USA - all good. HPI screwed the pooch. Seems dumb to me what Hong Nor is doing as there wont be ANYONE stateside who has more vested interest in making Hong Nor successful here than OFNA. But alas that ship has sailed an the relationship seems sullied. OFNA dumped everything hong nor / jammin off their site and inventory lists and Nitrohouse lists NOTHING for any Hong Nor vehicle. The mega dump.

Yes get JUST the mount no tray thingy. Here's the other bits Id recommend ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hong-Nor-395-X3-GT-Battery-Case-Receiver-Box-Top-Plate-OFNA-/181893125961?hash=item2a59acd749:g:Fb8AAOSwsB9WEXlj On a Hong Nor Jammin Conversion - you dont need RC Monster radio tray piece - thats old school ... Hong Nor has a proper electric conversion kit for the X1/X2 CRT and Buggies - in fact they use it across about 4 or 5 vehicles. I find it quite nice - battery tray - servo mount - Rx box - all bolt straight up to existing chassis holes. Simple as pie. This is their US based OFNA Ultra LX3e buggy chassis stock. All the bits with arrows pointed to them fit X2 / X1 CRT and buggies ... Heres my X2 CRT with them installed ... Installed on a 9.5 based buggy conversion from nitro to elec and from buggy to Short Course If youre at all interested in these plastic parts on the ebay store - they are in Hong Kong should get there fine. If you dont move on that kit - let me know as I will grab it for spare parts :-) For future reference - they use these on The DM-1 Spec-e Onroad cars | Ultra LX3e | Jammin X1/X2 CRT | Jammin X1/X2 CR buggy conversion kits. $45 for the mount + $23 for the plastic parts - seems a decent value for a proper tight and well functioning electric conversion with very little to NO chassis grinding drilling mods.