sputnik

Thanks Noj - she will be a runner with 1717 up under the hood - Mission Control - We Have Launch!

Thanks Al, Yeah me neither brother! The proper parts to correct that are on their way - being made actually. I may even trace out the strobe braces face and make some out of some extra Carbon Fiber sheet I have laying about. However; these are the parts we use to resolve that:

Its very simple Gents - read the exclusions. 35 yr insurance veteran here ... skip the crap at the beginning and move onto the exclusions. The front of the policy gives coverage - very broadly - then they exclude away what they wish not to cover. Also important to read the definitions after the exclusions or during for clarifications. Its not what they feel, or imply or intend to cover or exclude or what some guy on the phone from the BRCA, the USAA the NAACP or even the US of A - its whats WRITTEN in their contract - to the letter. If they dont have a written exclusion for "land owners permission" or a defined area - they will be obligated to cover it.

These are my very first ever Maxx builds - I learned and got everything from these guys at these locations - as well as UE Forums. https://www.facebook.com/groups/centralemaxxrc/ http://maxxparts.forumactif.org/

Now that we know why my Aluminum isnt shiny / polished and like a mirror, here's what else got slapped together as a dry fit run over the last weekends "DIFF Day" Pretty good progress - lots of little odds n ends still to sort out ... Even MORE DIFFS were added to the workspace: Kyosho 50T for the Magneto as a spare and the Mugen Center Diff goodies for the Ph@ntom v2 build CEN Diffs in GPM bead blasted bulkheads / Bead Blasted Strobe braces and Raw DUH Tall Titanium Shock Towers ... with G.A.R.C. 7075 Bulks as contrast. These bits are on their way to fill the void do to the DUH Ti tower thickness difference over stock ... Found an old OFNA 9.5 Shock standoff fits perf to fill the void on the strobe braces support in rear... Center Diff mounted onto center bottom of Magneto Chassis More testing and Dry Fittin' This shot features the CentraleMaxx Rear Chassis extension - as well as the CentraleMaxx custom Servo Saver In this configuration - Ive test fitted Hong Nor / Jammin X2 CRT center driveline universals to be a solid direct fit --- ^^^^^ ---- That caps build day / dry / test fit Day 1's activities and progress ... PM or post any questions.

A little bit of a backtrack here ... All the parts started life as shiny and new - but a friend in another group made the aluminum look 'Frosted". I liked it and copied the look. Truth be told - its a great way to make older used parts look like brand new again, and brand new look out of the ordinary and cool - white'ish frosted ... BEFORE. Mmmmmm shiny AFTER: Bead Blasted with 70% walnut husks and 30% glass bead The Harbor Freight $150 Bead Blast Cabinet ... Before: AFTER: [ partial ] AFTER: more So .... for all three trucks im building - if the part has that frosted look - it spent some time in that box - taking a beating ... speaking of taking a beating. Never Bead Blast Yer Self Mates - not fun ... [ removing parts and hit the trigger for a short blast to the forearm ] DUOH! Just a little blast embedded walnut and glass into the skin enough to make me bleed out of all those lil holes. Thats after it stopped a bit.

For me ... it almost always starts with - The DIFFs - so a major DIFF Day was scheduled - and it took all day! [ and more ] The Magneto is going to run CEN Genesis diffs - beefy mofo's ... Front and Rear and a Hobao Spyder 8 with 52T Lightweight Spurin Center Here's the start of Diff Day. 3 CEN on the left - Hobao Spyder 8s for center and F/R of some of the other builds ... UE, unlimited engineering outdrive cups in plastic - and some alternative lower final drive ratio options for the CEN in case the standard set are too tall to run in the Magneto The CEN diffs use a much larger diameter pin to hold their outdrive cups in place and attach to the internal sun gear than the UE/Unlimited Engineering units. The OFNA/UE pins are too long so I had to mark them to length and use the dremel cutoff wheel and vice grips to hold the lil buggarz and snip them to length. once measured up - its a 20 min job to get 4 or 6 of them done. Piece o' cake - they work a treat too. CEN on right OFNA / Hobao / UE on Left - snipped. Cleaned up the diff a little too and removed extra rtv .. I decided on the UE outdrive cups - because at the time the decision was made - the CEN hexigonical outdrive cups that came with my diffs were being turnt into shrapnel by 200kv / 4s combos as they were too soft - and the older beefy CEN units were not yet back in stock. They are now stocked up and I recall the part # as MX301 [ checked ] - so if you want to run CEN get those outdrive cups before running and you can avoid the UE pin steps. Diff Day - 1/2 way point of the day. Progress = 2 CEN DIFFS and 1 Hobao Spyder 8 for the center. 120k silicon center / 50k Front / 30k Rear These oil weights are super heavy and go against my experience and testing , but the SuperMaxx guys are telling me 1717 on 6s with these gears and trucks - its what to run - giving it a whirl. Note the CEN Diffs all snuggled up in their KMaxx 7075 Bombshelter Diff Housings? Sick! Here's the other Hobao Spyder 8 / Center - next to its new home - Kmaxx Customs Center Diff + Moto Mount - Holds up to 1717!!! This ^^^^ was the 1st iteration - learned a lesson - the UE outdrive cups dont fit thru the mount I have - or the UE cups I have are old and too phat - so I had to rebuild that diff again! Arrrrghhhhh .... note stock outdrive cups on this one .... The 2nd half of the days progress shall follow in next post ....

I was asked by a couple other members in a different thread to document my Magneto / Blackbird / Ph@ntom SuperMaxx Builds ... Kmaxx Magneto Starts off like this: [ but will morph into some changes ] The DUH Blackbird build will start out like this: [ will be detailed in a separate thread / post ] The CentraleMaxx PH@NTOM V. 2 Just arrived and so it starts off like this: [ will be detailed in a separate thread / post ]

Step 1: Cut a few alum soda cans in half. Used and empty of course Step 2: Find an old toothbrush or two Step 3: WD40 Step 4: Dismantle diffs into bottom half of soda can Step 5: Spray liberal amounts of WD40 all over diff parts - fill with wd40 to cover parts if you can Step 6: Let soak after all parts well coated with WD40 use toothbrush to mix parts around and scrub them in the soda can. Step 7: After good soak - WD40 turns all the grease and silicon oils to a gooo ... Step 8: Scrub well with toothbrush Step 9: use a magnet and get all parts into a clean empty soda can bottom [ can #2 ] Step 10: Spray with Simple Green and soak in it ... 50/50 water and simple green mix Step 11: scrub with simple green and toothbrush Step 12: after all clean in Simple Green - rinse with water Step 13: drop all parts into denatured alcohol - removes water from parts - let air dry. Ive done this a lot of years and tried all types of cleaners and solvents and methods - Ive settled on this. Only better way I could see to do it is with a gallon of wd40 and a large jewelry vibratory cleaner and let them run over night or longer - would eliminate the need for the toothbrushing. WD40 is the key - it somehow has ingredients that breaks down the grease grime and silicon oils and separates them from the metal and plastic parts. Simple Green is the most effective thing Ive found to quickly and easily clean the WD40 off. You want the wd40 off - if youre going to rebuild the diffs - else it will break down your new diff oil ...and rubber gaskets. These CEN Diffs and Hobao Spyders were all cleaned and setup ready for a T-Maxx / SuperMaxx build via this method. Took an hr to clean the CEN diffs on the left via this process - like new :-)

Offroad - proline Badlands Onroad - sorry never do that unless just testing for a few minutes [ badlands can handle that ]

wonder what fedex ground to USA is ?

I'll takes the diffs - both of them and will pay actual shipping to the states ... interested in the servos too I think - need to check speed and torque specs again to see if they are what I remember. CORRECTION: Shivenkleister - I was thinking in US Dollars mate - not pounds! Will pass on the servos - thought they were high voltage. Maybe we can meet in the middle on the diffs between pounds and dollars? Drop me a line

You Gents fancy those stock tires wheels and foams? I have a stockpile and bin full of them Id love to unload. Perhaps an across the pond trade of some sort?

Very nice ride bro. Looks like a gem to me. Surprised youre having nose diving issues - sure none of the universal driveshafts are not bent - there is no drag on the front wheels or diffs? The truggie was known to fly pretty good as a nitro .... I havent run my rig as an electric conversion truggy yet. Perhaps slap a few lead racing weights on the ass end of the chassis under the center driveline close to the rear diff? Remove weight from the front end somehow? How are the tires? Do they have dirt in them in the fronts? trying to sort out things that would be causing the weight imbalance. Increase the angle of the wing some for a bit more drag? Make sure your radio has epas set right too and not causing some accidental braking ? [ grasping at straws now ] Good luck man - nice truck!

Id prolly recommend a Jammin X2 CRT 2nd hand and fixed up. The secondary market for these is still pretty solid and parts arent too hard to get. Still IMHO the strongest of the "lighter" trucks out there. The CRTs are tough - as tough IMHO as the Hyper ST pros. I have several of both. If the Hyper ST Pro [ excellent choice ] doesnt float yer boat - the Jammin X2 CRT makes an excellent electric conversion basher. Have fun!

As far as Ive ever seen the X3 has unique universals up front. Dogbones in front would severely limit steering throw. Never seen that - except on a savage. Dogbones in rear is standard as well - unless a pro kit. But this is a rtr as I recall. Dont believe the solution to the issue is thicker driveshafts on the universals - just better steel :-) May try and compare Mugen MBX6/7 buggy driveshafts to see if they may be compatible. Longshot with the PBS vs. X3 C-Hub design tho. who knows may get lucky

Wish shipping wasnt such a spendy endeavor - else I could hook a brutha up. On the PBS .. wheels off, and give the retaining screws usually 5mm - that adjust the pbs snuggness or looseness and hold them into place - a good cinching down over nite. Then back them out to preferred looseness of steering throw desired. Cinching them down over nite seats the new plastic inner parts to the "balls" ... if you will - lol. Well thats how an old pro onroad guy told me to do it on mugen pbs stuff.

I think youd have better luck breaking that down into like 4 or 5 different listings. Sell the cars as rollers with spare parts. Sell the nitro engines cheap by themselves [ after you clean them up ] People like to buy nitro engines cheap and scavenge the good working parts - rods cranks bearings crankcases heads with the hopes that the piston and liner still have some pinch - or they send out for a re-pinch - if they arent hacked up inside. Advantage of parting them as a roller is you can remove all electronics and douse with Simple green to clean and spray and wipe with WD-40 to give them that cared for look. I have a jumbo sink in my laundry room and clean up the cars and blow them off with a 100 psi air compressor - they get nice and clean. The buyers then can spruce up the diffs and bearings as they see fit. Thats a lot of stuff to try and pitch in one listing - need a Hyper enthusiast or someone interested in reselling for that lot.

Whoooaaaa - Yikes. Sorry champ. I missed the part about links to pics on your lower advert on the listing. Im truly sorry. Just saw the rest of the pix. Pretty big lot o stuff there sir. Prolly too big for listing like that on ebay - methinks

Yeah - I pretty much [ for me ] identified anything that had any meaningful value to me. Used fuel parts are valued at zero for me

2 Center Diffs = $5 ea [ USD ] Jammin Big Bore Shocks - $18-20 a pair w/ springs Hyper 7 shocks - $2-3 dollars for the lot Center Uni driveshafts - $15-18 set Front/Rear Uni Driveshafts - $18-20 pair Misc bumbers and plastics - $7.50 total Servos - for me not much - perhaps the specs on the savox units make them worth $20 total - maybe 30-35 for the right buyer Plastic Diff Gearboxes - $10 for lot

gradually switching out all my gear to High Voltage servos + micro rx + small light LIPO rx batts. Done with AA's and recharging low performance NiMh packs. Prolly not sage advice for a budget minded basher [ which I can be as well ] but I just want all my race / bash gear same / same ... getting kinda spendy though across so much rc. to the OP - think ahead a bit, after you bash in your stock steering servo - which is inevitable really - what will you upgrade it to? High Voltage I say - then ya need to power that properly. Just sayin' - so u dont end up buying stuff 3 and 4 times.

Perhaps he s playing on the fact that the supply line is dry ... and no end of that in sight atm Stupid Hong Nor. Starting to feel like the new owners are also owner of a competitor and trying to kill off Hong Nor for good.

Wow - they really did just rip a hyper 7 off - lol. And here I was all along ragging on Hobao for ripping off Kyosho all those years ago. Pretty cool - does it come stock with those F/R bumper kits? would they mount to a H7 gearbox ? That lil can sure looks small for that rig. Be sure to advise how she goes. I ran my real H7 sct on MM2 + 2650kv and 3S and was pretty underwhelmed. Think I need taller pinion. Interesting that its a PBS suspension too ... and that the holes all line up the same as a H7 - even for the Losi8e batt tray - and motot mount - hahahaha - straight up DUPED it. Looks like a fun lil runner man. I do agree tho' - needs some SC wheels tires. SC Badlands bro - ftw. Curious tho', with all your past history with hypers and likely spare bits and the low cost of getting a solid roller to convert - why not go for the real deal [ Hyper 7 ] and convert one o' them instead? You like that PBS ?

OK got most of it sorted now ... Done and ready to run. Not much excited about the SC10 Rapter body - I rushed it and was frankly very impatient with the paint trimming and decal placements. Not willing to expend the additional energy atm on this rig until after I take it out for a good solid bashing and see how it turns and flies. Hoping this shorter than a truggy Hyper 7L chassis changes things for the better. Here's how it is now. With Chassis almost 100% flat on the deck - oversized tires still have enough clearance. The lid does have to ride a little high tho' - still looks pretty good IMHO.