TurboFurball

It really isn't, by the time you've thrown a few upgrades at it you may as well have gone with a SCX10, Ascender, or Sawback, which are all vastly superior. I only have this CC01 because I'm an impatient masochist.

Great, thanks guys

1: Yes 2: No, the M series chassis are smaller than regular 190/200s but there are lots of interesting bodies available (though for realism most would benefit from an M06 chassis for that RWD oversteering )

A regular TT01 won't fit, and the M03 is an older chassis now. I have an M03 and M05, both are very good (compared to the M01) and a lot of fun to drive

Yeah, the Tamiya Mini body is very very good for a lexan one. The HPI one is quite crap, but now discontinued, and the Kyosho one had really nice details but looked a bit out of proportion IMO. There might be large scale classic Mini toys that could be adapted, but given the speed of on-road RCs having a lexan shell makes logistical sense (whereas crawlers don't tend to hit things at speed, lol)

That would be Kamtec

Whats a good source of plastic for making wheel wells and interior supporting bits? Does anyone have links for a guide on a good way of constructing that kinda stuff? I could probably throw something together out of discarded plastic bottles etc, but I want it to be as durable as possible, and take paint.

Anything that takes a long time to arrive (because China). Anything where there's a bunch of cheap little bits, you go to the checkout and suddenly there's

Snapped the secondary steering linkage boss off the chassis after a bit of a tumble (it had already cracked, I suspect it's quite an old chassis so might be a bit brittle). Can't just bolt through the hole as there's a gear right on the other side, so epoxied up the hole and made a 2mm ally strap across instead - not a super slick solution, bit its nice and strong Also, added the adjustable top wishbones (in blue, they were on sale) and found out why the ally ones kept popping apart - there wasn't enough range of movement for the shocks to fully extend before! It's gained quite a lot of flex as a result, I'm pleased to say

Well, if they do break it won't be in the same way, lol ... but they look like they'll work

A reasonable servo should set you back

The adjustable ones. I don't know if my problems with the alloy ones are typical, but it's happened on both sides

I feel like I've pushed the envelope with my CC01 ... my build thread is HERE. Work is still ongoing (I'm replacing the alloy front upper wishbones with linkage style ones, as the alloy ones kept falling apart under heavy duress, even when held together with epoxy) ... it'll get there Good luck with your project!

The stock chassis is fine IMO. The front wheels tend to break (in a way that's easy to repair), and a high-torque metal-gear servo is definitely a good idea as normal ones can get sheared easily in collisions with hard objects ... the body mounts tend to go too, but if you're using a different body I guess that's unlikely to be an issue!

There's local area sub-forums, I'm sure there's many recommendations in them! Crawlers have the upper hand in this regard - they're quieter, lower environmental impact, and need much less space to run.

On mine: CC01 through-the-chassis shock mod. Went from trails to trials On a friend's: Lunchbox 5th shock mod. It just looks factory when done right, and results in a proper articulating back axle.

Fair point, maybe like the M05 rally spec it'll have under-guards to keep the muck out. Apart from that it looks like quite a nice compact chassis - I could be tempted at some point

Pride comes before a fall, lol I think I'll have to have a look at Hungerford Common as well then ... at Greenham I avoid the dog doo by walking 100m or so from any gate, as there seems to be a radius around it (not foolproof, but significantly better odds). Also, never had a problem with cow pats, though that might be because my stuff isn't heavy enough to squish them unless they were 100% fresh. In other news, I've mostly just been crawling and doing road stuff for the past couple of months as I broke my Stampede for parts. That will be fixed later this month though :-)

So, when accellerating does it just stay on the spot and turn the Earth instead?

Probably an unpopular opinion, but I had a Tamiya Neo Fighter. The kits about

By unscrewing the battery holder a bit it'll take a hard case 2s lipo, that's what I've been running mine on (I picked a couple up from Hobbyking for not a lot, make sure you read up on proper Lipo charging / storage practices as unlike Nimh they're volatile if handled incorrectly). As for the shocks, I just popped some pre-load on the springs (though the handling did suffer as a result, lol)

Oooh, hardcore off-road Minis await! There's so many great bodies for the M chassis, fingers crossed it handles as good as it looks

That Sand Scorcher has nice detail on it ... looks like the roof racks missing a surfboard or something, though

They look good for an entry level machine, I went for a Vaterra V100 instead but it was a tough call (very similar, and drifts just fine with only a swap of wheels and locked back diff). I'd also be interested to know if they'll take a standard lipo, the Vaterra does with just minor adjustment of a couple of bolts.

That is looking cracking, be interesting to see it all lit up!