Big-Savage14

^^ good choice, you will be defo dissapointed if you go with ACME or Nitrotek, pile of crap, although i have heard there 1/5th scales are not as bad as the nitro/leccy models off them but still hard for parts and a pain in the arse when it comes to customer care, none of your local stores would stock parts either. take a look at hpi/losi/thunder tiger/kyosho all decent bits of kit with easily available spares and customer care, not to mention many people own or have owned the same car(s) as yourself so will be able to help with every little detail. Himoto isnt a brand ive ever had experience with or heard of a great deal of before from what ive searched i think these fall into the same categary as nitrotek and ACME, cheap and nasty and hard to get hold of spares, upgrades and would be hard getting help as many peeps on here and down at your local hobbyshop would of drove/repaired these things before, i would go for the TS-4N by thunder tiger which is a steal at that price, there are 2 options to choose from either a 129.99 version which will be quick enough for a newbie or a 3.5 version for 169.99 which will go much better but also have a chance of breaking your new car if you get to throttle happy.... have you not considered a stadium truck or something which can go on road but also deal with the mud/rough stuff once in a while?? theres even some 1/8th scale monster trucks i.e. Thunder tiger MTA4 S28 on jepsares for under

starter box is your best bet! but i would go with rotostart, both have a one way bearing and they will need replacing every now and again, try removing pullstart back plate and wiping the shaft and the one way bearing a wipe down inside as excess grease/fuel can cause these to slip and try tapping the bearing but make sure you dont tap it so hard the bearings fall out as they can be tricky to get back in

decisions decisions.... anyone selling an LRP engine on here by any chance?? and for

the twitching will probably be due to arial length pal, new RX's are pretty cheap to buy anyhow so it may be worth getting a new one to save the hassle of the break re-occuring and is it the bit that screws into the servo that has gone or the full servo arm? double check over the car and make sure all bolts/nuts are tought but not too tight it will snap certain plastic items and if linked to the drive chain may prevent it from free rolling. hope you find someone nearby who can give it the once over for you, once you familiar with all the parts it will become second nature, id just check over engine mountings, pull start and all fuel lines too.

bear with me and i shall post some pics up tonight or first thing in the morning, will try upload a video of it running too. are you in the birmingham area??

gorgeous car mate, every scrape on that shell is going to be heart wrenching, thing looks evil =D

any nice tracks around the birmingham area?? usually take them into some nearby bmx tracks and fields but need to find a proper track nearby or some new bashing spots as im bored of the same old, bmx track tends to be the best spot upto now but busy at times and a crash with a bike isnt really going to end well

smooth the head down with a bit of grinding paste but be sure there are no left over bits when you re-build the engine, what you experienced is fairly uncommon, have you pulled the roto/pull start off and checked beneath the piston to ensure no depris worked its way down to the bottom?? if so this will be a costly thing to replace.

ive got the s.28 engine in the MTA4, was going to get the .50 but decided the money i saved would be better spent on radio gear, these are mega sized engines too so i take it a custom mounting would be needed, that beast would eat my drive train after a few days, many worn out spur gears etc i suspect. the LRP sounds nice enough, just having a look for some reviews.

yeah speedy delivery, very helpful staff, found some stuff to be a tad dearer price wise though to my usual store,

use softer shock oil/springs, also some kits you can buy rear and front ARB's to help reduce the lift when cornering at speed, for all 3 your probably looking at about

going into a hyper 7 pal, im guessing though this should just drop right in if im correct looking at the specs of the engine??

fuel lines are generally the biggest cause of air leaks, these rub against say the exhaust or tank and get tiny holes in, check the little connector were the pipes hold onto the exhaust and the fuel tank as these can split and bend. If new fuel lines dont help then i say check the seal on the lid of the fuel tank and if all else fails new tank, these can be picked up dirt cheap.

melt it but be sure there is no fuel in the tank as this could ignite dependant on what your using to heat up the plastic, i just use to use a red hot nail (use cooker to heat) and a pair of pliars, has always helped me out when ive been out in the fields and had a cracked tank and needed a quick time repair.

Anyone recommend a decent engine above .28 for bigger HP's??? have tried the force R36 in an old buggy and it flew with that in but was a cheap engine and had lots of hassle after a few months of owning it, ive heard STS do a .30 but have no idea about power on these things, will have upto about

Joy-e-tech evic which is adjustable wattage/voltage, perfect vape, a bit larger than your average e-cig though, battery lasts for days. love the blackjack flavour!! anyone recommend any cheap places to buy liquid in bulk? i.e. 10-20 bottles at a time????

Hello!! Fairly new to the forum so i thought id list my MTA4 seen as though it has been lying about for a while! gave her a run yesterday to make sure everything was ok, runs perfect!! new clutch shoes fitted around 3 weeks ago, fuel filter aluminium, larger motorsaver air filter, standard parts on the car, fuel lines on cooling head to stop marks/dents and help stop split/cracked fins, rechargeable battery pack for in vehicle, (AA batteries for controller). comes with box, wheel spanner and a couple of allen keys, original body supplied which is in great condition (no cracks, just the odd few scratches) need so i can buy some new parts for the Baja to get it in spec for winter

clutch bell or clutch shoes, check the springs that hold the clutch shoes back too, some cars also have a slipper clutch so this may be worth a check, is it 4wd or 2wd? sometimes if you have a slipper clutch a little nut on the drivetrain needs tightening or a new clutch pad.

Thunder Tiger TS-4n Sport V2 is better than nitrotek or acme, these tend to be crappy makes and its hard to get all the spares as easily as a well known brand such as thunder tiger or HPI, traxxas etc would be your best bet for an easy to run (less problematic) cars with spares cheaply and easily avalable on modelsport, ebay etc.

pretty good for the price!! had the kit a couple of years back, shame gone bust, still no comparison to the good old hyper buggies.