allan1010

Yep. Anything still on it's wheels is gonna be faster than one on it's back LOL

Q1) Samij is right, but that only applies at room temperatures. All permanent magnets lose their properties above the "curie point" temperature but graphite isn't stricly speaking a magnet. Instead it exhibits a property known as "diamagnetism" which means that, although not magnetic in itself, it is repelled by a strong magnet. Liquid Oxygen is similar, but opposite. It has "paramagnetism" and is attracted to a strong magnet without actually being magnetic itself. Uses for magnets; I'm sure you can think of loads but electromagnets are used on cranes everywhere from scrapyards to factories, to move ferrous metals about. Electromagnets are also used in auxiliary braking systems on trains and HGV's. Other uses include magnetic tape (video tape and the stuff on the backs of credit cards), floppy disks and hard disks old-style (non flat screen) TV's and monitors, electric motors, dynamos and alternators, speakers, microphones and telephones, electrical transformers, Q2) Electrical conductors; All metals are conductors, plus graphite, some salt solutions and all gas plasmas. All insulators are non metals but not all non-metals are insulators, see above, although with the salts the conductive ones are all salts of metals. Conduction is based on the movability of electric charges within the atomic structure of the condutor; when a voltage is applied, electrons will flow through the material. Q3) Checking for distortion can be done by comparison against an engineers surface plate with straight edges, gauge blocks etc or it can be chucked ay each end, rotated and checked with dial indicators, height gauges etc.

"J for Joke", mate. Seriously, it depends on the track. The Marder generally comes with a 26cc motor while the baja comes with the 23cc; the 23cc revs higher and develops more top end but the 26cc lump has better bottom end tractability. I met somebody yesterday with an ex-championship winning Hormann from Holland, and he has the 23cc in that for exactly that reason but he'd swap back and forth depending on the track & conditions.

They use at least 3 different types of oil in their formulations and go down to 10%. What kind of oil and how little of it do you want in a fuel??? LOL

Either way, top gear was around long before Clarkson presented it. AFAIK he doesn't own the format so the decision as to whether or not it returns isn't his to make. If it has gone out, it's gone out on a high which is the best way but it was starting to get more stupid than funny to me; the redneck thing for one was too far fetched and staged and the reliant space shuttle stunt was a very high budget item that probably couldn't be out-done within the programme's budget. If they do bring it back I'd rather see more stuff like the incredible, indestructible Toyota Hi Ace and the budget challenges where they buy a car for an improbably low fixed sum and see how much "usability" there is left in it.

Hmm, Expert Mix mebbe? Even that comes in 5 versions from 2.5% (!!!!) to 25% nitro, ll with at least 20 to 25% oil so if you had the wrong one.... The big problem I cam see with modeltechnics isn't that it's bad fuel, it's not. No company can stay in business 30 years making bad fuel, it's that there are so many different kinds, then folk buy half and full gallons instead of buying litres to test or asking MT which would be best for their engine and model type. Their big bang fuel is only 10% oil, so there's much more methanol in the mix and better power. Same with their special mix for pullstart engines, which has about12% oil. Both have, IIRC, nitro up to 25 or 30%.

If it says it's suitable for lead acid or gel cells then yes. If it's just for NiMH/NiCD/LiPOly then no. None, technically but that's not the answer you needed. Lemme explain: mAH is a measurement of current over time and is a measurement of duration as well as capacity. 1000 mAh is 1000 miliamps in one hour, or 500 in 2 hours, 2,000 in 30 minutes and so on. So if your radio set up uses, say, 250 milliamps then on a 1,000 mAh cell it will last 4 hours, give or take. Mah lets you work out how long a battery will last doing a certain job or how long the charger is likely to take (although with the likes of the propeak it varies the charge depending on the charge cycle so that's not so easy to work out). There are 1,000 mAh in 1 Amp/hour, or 1,000 mA in 1 Amp which is probabl;y what you were looking for. Don't get the 2 mixed up they are different terms and mean different things. Good luck.

Which modeltechnics fuel are ypou talking about Ziggy? They make about 20 different blends (plus different nitro %ages within the blends) because they know different applications such as the helis you mention have different formulation needs. They make several fuels just for nitro cars. If you haven't tried all of them then you're condemning the manufacturer unfairly, the problem might lie in the place you bought the fuel advising you badly or not having the fuel you really needed in stock!

Can you qualify that? Why not? What experience do you have with them?

No, it's not confusing. You're gertting there with it. As to the top or bottom question, I don't know but the top seems to make sense to me. As for the rubbing on full lock, I found this text in the PDF that you posted at the top of this thread: Hope this helps, it sounds like you should have got an extended axle and second square driver for each side.

You should read this from the King Cobra website: So it look s to me klike you either need to stick with it or strip & rebuild your motor before you come away from it!! Looks like the guy in the model shop was right.

My toy is a 4 litre Ford Explorer XLT and the daily driver is a Chrysler Voyager 3.3 between them we manage to rack up about 30,000 miles a year.

You won't be liking it, his new marder is gonna blow your baja away anyhow LOL

Does it not go on the rearmost shock bulkhead (where the backs of the front suspecnsion arms attach to)? That's where it's shown in "pict 4" of the PDF instructions in your original post above. confused...

Can you point me to any articles that show the relationship between rolling resistance and grip, or bear you out?? It's an interesting theory but it seems to fly in the face of everything I learned on the fullsize machines so I'd be interested in checking it out.

If you swap them side-to-side they'll point the other way!! Up to you but you might like to give it a go.

The failsafe won't freeze the throttle servo unless it's stuffed. Normally if the throttle servo is freezing it's because it has lost power or signal. If the failsafe is working, when either power or signal is lost it'll go into failsafe mode.... so something's up between the receiver battery and the servo. You said you're OK technically but you haven't said what it is you've done to trace the fault. I'd try it without the failsafe and see how you get on. If it still has any problem, the failsafe isn't it. Then the thing to do is check for broken, frayed or exposed wiring anywhere between the receiver battery and the servos. I kinda suspect that you're losing recever battery power but I actually hope it's the failsafe as they're not expensive and easier to troubleshoot!

You'll know if they're the wrong ones! Either they'll be too short to reach the servvo or, if they do reach they'll be too short to release the brake so the wheels will drag. But if hobbythek say the cables are all the same length I'd take their word for it, at least for now. They really know their stuff; if there was two or more cables to choose from they'd know, and they'd have them in stock.

Odd. The whole reason for the development of that tread pattern donkeys' years ago (and not being superceded by a different design for decades) was for grip. It seems bizarre that they should work better backwards! Mebbe we should be telling the agricultural world they've been doing it all wrong :lol: :lol:

I've only seen a couple of "alternative" styles to the standard buggy, MT, stadium truck etc actually running and none of them handled as well as the buggy. Vectra, that's a cool conversion. never seen that one before. BUT there are 2 other alternatives to make your marder road-going; you can put on some (same-sized as the normal marder) slicks, hobbythek do 'em for around 90 euros a pair or the cheaper option is to do the "Marder onroad conversion kit" which gets you 2 pairs of FG rims with TC slicks (smaller diameter than the standard marder tyres, so the gearing needs to be changed), 26/40T pinion & spur to change overall ratio to compensate for the reduced gearing, new uprights and shorter steering arms to suit the new wheels. This option is about 100 euros but obviously it's a faff on to change it all around when all you have to do with the more expensive option is to put on the 4 wheels.

Yup cool front tyres but are they not the wrong way around? On my fullsize tractor the points of the "V" shaped blocks are supposed to point forwards at the top of the wheel. Dr Bacardis point backwards. Just a thought.

Vectra has a point. I was 99% convinced to buy a carson but in the end I bowed to peer pressure because my mates all run marders and I like the idea of 100% parts compatibility for breakdowns in the field. However, the Carson Attack is 80% compatible and the Hobbythek website has a list of swappable parts; those which you can swap and which you have to also swap out other things as well (such as the front end). Vectra is also a very happy carson c5 owner. The only people I know who knock Carsons are peple who DON'T have them!!. More choices!!

Ultimately it's your choice. The HT edition contains almost 275 euros' worth of hop-ups that you will EVENTUALLY use, including some very good quality bearings, the essential diff tube and ally diff conversion and more. In short, it's all the stuff any marder owner will tell you that you'll need. Whether or not you buy them with the model or piece by piece as you break stuff is up to you. Unless you seriously abuse the model you certainly won't be needing all of the parts straight away so if cost is an issue then consider getting the parts later in more affordable chunks or as you need them (albeit at a higher overall cost). The monsters have a higher centre of gravity and this affects their handling & speed across terrain, but on the upside they do have more ground clearance and so can go some places that marders & bajas can't. TBH, my preference would be to stick with the Marder if you're going to use them together as the performance difference is noticeable, but of you want something that'll go where your baja can't then get the MT. Decisions decisions!! Enjoy. Oh, BTW hobbythek are excellent. You'll have parts in 3 or 4 days and new vehicles in 4 or 5 days max. Their customer service is excellent.

Sticks all the way. When I started you couldn't get wheel radios, except in the USA. When I came back into the hobby I always said I wasn't bothered which I used but now I'm into sticks again I lovce them. I've never had a problem with thumbs slipping off and I don't wear gloves at all for R/C, sticks just work perfectly for me.

Why not use the "ask seller a question" feature, and just ask him?