behappy2755

Wouldn't it be much cheaper to install defibs in more public places? They already have some at airports and sports centers, but adding more would cost much less than a drone network. Let's say a defib costs

What ever you do don't go and let it ride free (ie not on the table with blocks). Throttle servo problems could mean a nasty run away.

If it isn't the diff, make sure the wheel is properly connected to the diff. So check any drive screws or anything. With the servo, take off the servo horn, turn on the electrics, set throttle trim to 0, and put the servo horn back carefully- as close to the middle as possible.

The diffs are there to provide power to a perpendicular axle, and distribute it between the wheels. Inside the diff there is some oil, which makes it more difficult for the cogs to move past each other. When you move two wheels forward or backward at the same rate, then the gears inside the diff don't move, because they are working against each other. This makes the diff spur gear move. If you would do the process backwards you would mimic what the engine does. However, when you move the wheels in opposite directions, or stop one, therefore not at the same rate, the gears inside the diff start to move around. In reality, this scenario happens when turning. As the car rolls to one side, the outside wheel is under more pressure, just as if you were holding it still. The diff then gets to work, it distributes the engine power to the inside wheel- not what we want because this wheel doesn't have enough traction (it is almost off the ground in a powerful turn). To stop this, you add thicker diff oil. It makes the diff harder to move (just the inside diff), making it more difficult to move the wheels at different rates, and therefore the power has to be distributed more equally between the wheels. This means more power (more than before, but not more than the inside wheel) will go to the outside wheel with more traction- you will get better acceleration out of corners! On the other hand, thicker oil will make the car harder to turn. This is because the outside wheel has a longer arc to travel, and the inside wheel has a shorter arc. To make up for this, the wheels have to be free to spin at their individual RPM's. The thinner the oil, the more free the movement becomes, resulting in better handling! It's all about getting the balance right. However it is a real chore to replace diff oil, so you have to be very average with your setting. I'm not sure about the specific 'wt' numbers, but any wild choices have to be made with a reason. If you are racing, you would look at how much throttle you are using a lap, and at the corners. If you aren't using much throttle, then you don't need thick oil to distribute power evenly. Drifters put a thick oil, or even lock the rear diff, so that the rear of the car slides about more- the wheels cannot spin at their individual RPM. The ratio between front and rear diff oil thickness changes the oversteer/understeer factor- just like spring stiffness and ride height. With your center diff, I'm not sure. It's either your brake is on- noticeable loss in power, or there is something wrong with your clutch like you said. You could check by taking the engine out (therefore the clutch won't be affecting the spur gear), and moving the car about.

The collet isn't snapping- there is a cut in it so when it gets squished by the flywheel the cut gets smaller making the collet grip the crankshaft tighter. Get a new one anyway. And you're right, the groove is fine for the rs4, probably because the whole clutch nut is a hex shape, and the springs need a circular surface to grip. My clutch nut is only hex on the two edges, and in the middle it is round, and smaller in diameter. (As if the groove was very very wide and tapered) But if your groove became deeper it would cause the springs to fail.

No, the clutch nut starts clean, and if there is something wrong with the flywheel, the clutch nut spins with the springs scratching against it, making a groove, which then frees the worn springs.

E-bay guy is a big time liar! The engine would cut out whenever the car would stop if there is a groove in the clutch nut! Don't spare careful disassembly time, just rip the things off... Shopping list- Collet Flywheel Clutch nut x2 (2 just in case another is eaten) Clutch shoes Clutch springs

Do not open the clutch shoes all the way until the spring gives to take them off! If you don't have a tool (like me) then open one shoe a little bit, put a spare small screwdriver in between so it stays open. Then open the next shoe forward, and try to pull it up as much as possible without any big stress. Then try to get the little spring that is toughing the clutch nut to go over it smoothly. Then go to the clutch shoe without the screwdriver holding it open (that way it will be free, and the other one would still be held back by the one before if you see what I mean). The more you open the clutch shoes the more damage you will do, if you are reasonable it is absolutely fine. Check the clutch nut for grip, and the flywheel and collet.

Yeah, I love the functionality and weight! And the range is awesome- it's further than you would even imagine driving: the car is just a black dot. There is almost no lag, most of it is from the servos, engine response, clutch and drivetrain. Only downside is the scroll wheel doesn't feel too natural. and the ch3 buttons are not in the best positions, apart from that it's great.

Flysky GT3C- absolutely brilliant. I really don't see why people pay for spectrums and others. Its worth the extra from the GT3B because of the lightweight rechargable battery, not 8 AA.

Use a piston stopper (basically a deep glowplug with a screwdriver like grip on the end and with no wire), OR take the pullstart off, turn the OWB around, and grab it with some pliers. (Take the engine assembly out first). I don't have a piston stopper, so I use the later method even though it is more dangerous.

That looks exactly as my aluminium Carnage pipe!

Filthy!

Don't run it through puddles! The foam in the tyres get ruined, and unbalanced, everything will rust unless you clean it all out (not worth the time), The engine hates water, and if some gets in your battery box, electrics are on their way out ASAP, for safety reasons (it could do a run away). Therefore having 'waterproof' things (splashproof), doesn't make much of a difference in most cases.

Don't run on grass! It slows the car down, there is no quick handling, and stresses the engine and clutch. A golfing green would be ideal if you insist on grass, but otherwise there is no point. And I'd think a 1/10 truggy would be a better option for someone who is just starting out.

Yeah, the ending...

not easy. Start by taking apart the front of the car, keep going until you open up the diff gearbox. You will find the diff drive gear, and the diff spur gear, both will need replacing. This might be a good time to change the diff oil inside. (Ask if you want to know more) You need to order FTX6230 and FTX6229 It will cost you just over

I have a carnage! and once i lost rear power. Its either going to be the front diff, the dogbone (obvious), or the center gearbox assembly. Check the front dog-bone, if it's fine, unscrew the 4 screws under the center gearbox, take it out, and see if the tiny screw holding the dog bone connector is tight against the flattened side of the gear box shaft. It is the nozzle-like thing on the opposite side to the brake assembly, where the dog bone ball fits into. If that's fine, it must be the diff, listen up for crackling sounds- its the teeth slipping.

My reaction- OH WOW, TYYYYYRE SMOOOOKE!!!! wait a minute... It's photoshopped!!! What a bunch of liars! no tyre smoke... Have a look yourself, the trees are real scale and far too close, shadows are too fine, and lightening and saturation dont mix. I'm so dissapointed.

For a speaker small enough and energy efficient enough there would be no real bass. That is the problem. Play a video with a car on your phone, and you will see how 'toy-ish' the engine sound sounds, with no bass. If you play the same vid on something with a bass speaker it will sound great. Otherwise, get an IC engine.

From what I've learned, anti-roll bars even out tyre wear, and change the over/under steer. You can change the steering by changing the spring stiffness- stiffer in the rear = over steer, and vice versa. And in RC tyre wear isn't as important as in F1, so I think it might be too much hassle.

How do sway bars actually work? And what are they meant to do?

If the wheels were off the ground it could have gone into very high revvs, did it scream very loud? If it wasn't turning or changing the throttle it's probably your receiver batteries, or servos. Check if it responds every time before you start the engine!!!

Yeah, I have a spare rx already. Thanks