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Mike_J_Smith

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Everything posted by Mike_J_Smith

  1. I just did the same thing, see my recent sales post. It’s a win win win situation, I get some cash, buyer gets a brand new item at a good price and a donation to the charity of their choice. Better than the item gathering dust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Sold. Thanks for the interest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Ive pm’d the guy who contacted me first, he hasn’t been online since he initially asked so I’ll give him a little while longer first, then will contact in order of interest in this thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Provisionally sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. After much deliberation I’ve decided to sell on my FTX Outback 2 Rolling Chassis, which was won in one of the Gold Member prize draws. I was going to build this up, but in reality I’m not going to get round to it and have little interest in it once built anyway as I have a Vaterra Ascender I haven’t finished either. It’s opened and taken out of the box to look at and then put back in the box. I’ve chatted with other members & admin for advice on selling a prize and decided to go for a price where another forum member will get a good deal on a new item and give a donation to charity as well; plus I get some cash to spend on my Tekno ET48 so a win, win, win! It’s this one https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=425372&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrtmIhany3QIVab7tCh3hkw31EAQYBCABEgIEBPD_BwE with a D90 shell. How about £80 delivered, £20 will be donated to charity of your choice (or Make-a-wish if you have no preference!) Cheers, Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Well, I'm not an expert and tend to go with recommendations here and on other forums. KV affects torque and rpm, so lower kv = better torque for larger, heavier cars & lower rpm; higher kv = less torque, more speed. So for a heavy truggy that I want to fly through the air and add more stuff to make it stronger (and heavier), lower kv is what I'd prefer. On the US forums, I see a lot of people go with even lower KV on 6s as the preference. I also think there will be something about temperatures in their too? higher rpm sounds like it would run hotter, therefore may need fans etc which I don't have. As it happens, I've glued my original motor together and not had a chance to run it since. It'll either work or it will fail fast I reckon, so should be a quick test.
  7. I have a vaterra Ascender I’ve been thinking of selling. I’ve shortened the wheel base to fit a d90 hardbody. Would that be of interest? Difficult to get it to fit a d90 with interior due to the motor mount but I’ve seen it done but not sure how. I do have a d90 hardbody to go with it and some cheap smaller wheels for scale. Unfortunately I mangled the interior of the d90 trying to get it to fit, tried to tint the windows instead then started to styrene up the rear windows. Let’s call it a project! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Painted up a new shell, nothing fancy but nice n bright. When Tamiya says fluorescent, they mean it [emoji41] This is going to be reinforced and shoe gooed up so hopefully will last longer than the last one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Prize winnings! Not sure what to do now, I have a Vaterra Ascender which I never finished building and I don’t need two crawlers. May move the Ascender on and build this one up instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Some payday goodies: LFR body, harder springs and replacement bumper for my Tekno ET48, and paints for the body. Hex power drivers and temperature gun. Q32 because I went into Wheelspin on our way back from a weekend break and thought what the hell, I quite fancy one! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Where did you order them from? The website doesn’t seem to give UK as a shipping destination. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Whoop whoop! Thanks all, 53HRA and MSUK in general. A great site, one of the friendliest, informative and approachable forums I have come across. £5 a year is nothing in return for everything this forum gives and prizes are a total bonus! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Yeah jb weld or something similar is the plan I think. May also glue a hose clamp around it to strengthen it up, see if that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Yeah maybe, this guys fitted in a 102mm can though, granted with a smaller footprint esc but hasn’t used an esc mount so could possibly get both in. Just need to get creative! https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/my-slow-truggy.176/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Depending on model you can get esc mounts which free up plenty of space for longer cans / bigger esc’s. I’ve seen people do it, but not sure how much of a good idea having the esc mounted high is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. The other thing I liked about Tekno was parts availability, the fact they are raced and have lots of interchangeable parts across the models means (I hope) decent part supply for some time. I’ve only broken one shock stand from the car, plus a body and I’ve been doing some really hard jumping with little landing skills! Did manage to do this last time out, but that’s not the cars fault: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Thanks, I think that is more buggy orientated? I think I’d rather a lower kv, but then I don’t have much experience of anything other than the 2200kv. Drop me a pm with your price if you can and then I’ll see what else comes up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Looking for a 1/8 truggy motor to run on 4s, ~2200kv would be ideal. Cheaper = better as it'll probably be temporary until I work out what I want to do and get the cash together to do it. Cheers, Mike
  19. Went to my local skate park, a small area really not a park but still good fun. Managed to shear the end of my motor where it bolts together (no idea what this part is called!) Must have given a hard knock at some point then took a hard landing into concrete [emoji24]. Thought it had just knocked the motor out of mesh but then I saw this: Can’t think of any obvious fix and can’t see any spares, so will need a new motor unless any bright ideas? May try some kind of metal adhesive just to see if it works. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Fitted one of the chassis braces I got from Michael Meyer off the Facebook: The other brace will only work once/if I relocate the esc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Some metal from Germany! Chassis braces and and esc mount for a Tekno ET48. Hopefully try and mount them up later. Don’t need the esc mount yet, but got carried away! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. These look pretty bad ass! They seem to be marketed towards crawlers, but I assume they’ll work well in a 1/8 truggy? High torque and not exactly slow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Where did you get them from? Looking to get the power tool ones so I don’t have to do everything by hand. Modelsport looks like the only place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Had a big air bashing session here: The Tekno ET48 took it all in its stride, which given my minimal skills is impressive! No breakages apart from the shell, which seems to work fine despite not being attached at the rear. And then I forgot to route the rx wire through the shell and it wrapped itself round the rear driveshaft, oops Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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