No need for a massive mechanical switch - using a FET as a high-side power switch would be suitable. Adding a small amount of components wouldn't make the physical size much bigger. ESCs already use FETs to control the speed and carry the full load to the motor. I can only guess manufacturers are trying to keep costs down.
But ESCs (particularly in combination with LiPo batteries) don't seem to be as safe as they could or should be.
Anyway, I'm going back to thinking I know what I'm talking about now...
Solder station is best (I do a lot of soldering work) but for occasional use a mains iron of at least 40W will see you through most tasks. Look for Weller or Antex, they're both good brands.
Spent several hours last night setting-up the front suspension and steering geometry. When the steering servo was at rest the right wheel had much more toe-out than the left. After much adjustment on the servo horn > turnbuckle > servo-saver it's now spot-on. I knew it was out when I got the buggy but didn't realise just how much until I started set-up.
I started break-in at Christmas and it's been pretty cold round here, but all is well so far.
I use one of these > http://ibprostart.com/product.php?id=3
Less than 10 minutes connected to a 9Ah SLA and our MacStar .28 is up and running even on the coldest day
Good reply!
I'm gona do some reading on ESCs, so far I'm seeing a lot of people saying that they are not necessarily the safest or best-designed bits of kit.
If that's true then they are bad designs, to the point of being dangerous. A switch should be the first device between the power source and the load - unless a fuse is incorporated, in which case the switch should be after the fuse.