matt_green84

Hiya, running low on the Model Tecknics stuff i've got at the mo, which i had with the car, so can someone please reccomend me a good fuel please? I want a good compromise of cost, performance and engine longevity. I know there's plenty of arguments going on about fuel, but I need a recommendation based on my engine, driving style and also what plug i should be using. I mostly bash about doing 1/2 - 3/4 throttle stuff, rarely get up to WOT for prolonged periods of time. The engine is the one that comes in a rascal, .18 ci. Constructive points only please!!

Just to add, Q: What do you call a chav in a locked box? A: Saaaaaaaaafe.

I/C pipes that long, the thing probably don't come on boost till about the 1/8th mark!! Don't get me wrong, i can really appreciate the workmanship, and the car looks fantastic, but 8 turbos on a car like that just makes me think "Yeah, but... why?" Surely its just going to eat pistons, and with that much temperature going into it, there would need to be some serious charge cooling going on!!

From what i've been reading aswell, the Rush is on its way to obseletion, so parts supplies and so on will be drying up. The firestorm is the newer version, not sure on how much they're going for though.

This is for sale as an unwanted xmas present, on behalf of a friend. All the kit is included, sold as RTR. Here is a link to the distributors website: http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/deta...mp;activepage=1 Offers on this, as they haven't set a price yet. SRP is £119.99, and its been out of the box only a couple of times. Reply/PM but keep on topic please.

Wow, i bet with that amount of boost and so much lag, coupled with american car handling, the things probably completely undrivable.

What sort of experience have you got, and what specifically makes it rubbish? I would say if you want to recommend something, or try to advise someone to steer clear of something, you'd need to cite a few points as to why!! Saying "Its Rubbish" is about as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike.

is that a grub screw? If it is, it may be holding the equivalent of the p-shaped part of my setup. Can you get a pic of it? Which reminds me, i need to try to sort mine out!!

Rascal!! Exhaust can be a bit leaky, but its easily sealed, and also the design of it not being a tuned pipe stlye keeps it quiet. I can run mine in the car park at my apartment, which is enclosed on all sides, and its not too bad at all! As for the other points, VFM is good, power is great, its nice to work on, and stripped screws are a bit of operator error i would say. Go for it, you'll enjoy it!!

Couple of posts down: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=20878

Firestorm is basically the Rush Evo replacement as far as i know, so i'd go for that over the Rush. As for the E Savv, its up to you wether you want nitro or electric (see your other post). As for nitro maintenance, its not too bad, just clean it after a run, and check everythings still where it should be. If you get anything damaged, it can be a bit more work to sort out, but nothing to worry about. I enjoy tinkering about with mine, never run a nitro before, and i've already swapped a diff, which looking at it i reckon is the most work you can get to. The rewards are there if you put the time in, and at least you realise you need to maintain it, you can't just run it and forget it.

Another consideration is how patient are you? Ie... Imagaine the scene, winters day, very cold, but you decide to meet some mates for a play. Turn up, mate grabs his electric car out, turns it on, turns transmitter on, and goes off hooning about. You get your car out, fuel it up, grab the glow start, try to start it for a few minutes, but it wont. Check the glow plug, check the starter. Both fine. Adjust the idle. Still nothing, give it some throttle, hydrolock the engine. Plug back out, clear the fuel, then try again. Eventually get it going, and off you go. Now, which do you prefer? Knowing you'll be quicker once running, or being able to turn up and go? Also consider when you get home, cleaning the nitro gunk off, and replacing various bits and pieces, cleaning the filter etc. Now that all makes it sound like nitro is a pain in the [CENSORED]. Well, yeah it is, but once running and tuned right, sooooo much fun, and the noise and smell (bacon sarnies!!) make it all the more fun! And half the fun is pulling it all apart and maintaining it. If your only gonna be bashing, i can recommend a Schumacher Rascal, RTR for about £140 off modelsport, plus fuel and stuff, and its great fun, will beat my mates revo off the line happily.

All depends on what you post really!! Yeah when your pushing the car and the powers on, the brakes should stilll work, look at the linkages, you've normally got a long link off the servo, which runs through a P-shaped link which goes through the top of the brake itself. Basically operate the brake and have a look, you'll see whats going on. On my car the factory setting is 1mm gap behind the p-shape at neutral. Then you can alter how far out the p is which changes the braking power. Just have a play, don't lose anything and remember how it goes back, and take it apart. Its the easiest way to learn.

^^^ what he said. i would much rather do it properly as opposed to the bodgy easy solution.

Thanks for the reply. I'm wondering on how in the hell i'm supposed to get to the idle adjustment screw, as from what i can tell its buried under electronics, rear suspension and muffler. Also, i think i've made my brakes crap. I moved the p-shaped part of the linkage further in, which effectively reduces the throw and leverage on the brake itself, which made the brakes a bit crap. Will bring it out a touch, and experiment to find the best position.

Hmm, interesting. Got my new diff put together tonight, all greased up nicely and schmoove as you like! and with the minor inconvenience of losing the e-clip off the layshaft, which was fixed with a wire tie, all fairly easy!! So, filled it up, and took it for a run. First few minutes was scary coz of low batteries, so swapped 'em and went back out. And there's something wierd going on. The truck seems to be idling higher, so much so that it was spinning the wheels up when i parked it upside down. And, it also seemed to be much more powerful, occasionally popping the odd wheelie in a quick change of direction, and almost always cocking the inside wheel on turns. Thing is, i haven't touched the engine at all! So why the performance difference? Only things i can think of are outside ambient temperature, or possibly the failsafe i've installed (badly) and dosen't seem to work properly, gipping up the signal and opening the carb more. Next job would be taking out the failsafe, or turning down the idle, but enoughs enough for tonight. And looking at all that, i'm not even sure if i've asked anyone anything. So, any comments?

Right, now i'm looking at being able to get my rascal back running, i've got a couple of questions. Brakes: The brakes on the rascal seem to act like a handbrake, ie. pretty much on or off. Is there any way to adjust them to get a bit more modulation with them, coz normally its a case of brake and the back and front swap ends. Suspension: The back of the car bottoms out from a drop of only about 4 inches. I'm running stock springs and oil, what would people reccomend to make it a bit better (which springs, preload, oil etc.) ? I've started jumping it, and don't want it bottoming too much. Also are the alloy bodied shocks any better for performance, or is it just a bling ting? Stripped Threads: I'm a bit worried that a couple of screws have stripped there threads, where the rear suspension arms are attached to the chassis. Anything i can use to re thread the holes? Answers to any or all of the above would be appreciated.

When mine comes out so far that the string looks clean, i stop pulling.

Well Impressed! Its not often you get genuinely good customer service, so i'll tell everyone about this! Being the impatient bugger i am, i rang Schumacher this morning, and spoke to one of their engineers. I told him the problem, and he said "Hmm, thats unusual. Whats your adress, i'll chuck one in the post to you, with a stamped up jify bag. If you can send your old diff back, we'll be able to work out what was wrong." They even offered to pay for the truck to be sent to them for the diff to be fitted! (But i'll do it myself and save a bit of time). I really am pleased with Schumacher, as i say its not often, and not enough people praise companys when they're very good, so here it is! Thanks Schumacher!

And im sure by that you mean getting a legal back-up of media you have already purchased, thus having also purchased the licence and therefore not being in breach of copyright law, which some people are being caught for by 'confessions' on internet forums?

Yep, tried the lot!! Emailed schumacher last night, so i'll see what their reply is.

Taken it all apart tonight, not very pleased really! From what i could see, the dust cap over the hex screw was installed upside down. Not sure what impact that would have, but it would appear also that one of the dust covers was not clicked into place properly, which has allowed ingress of grit into the grease. The next problem is i can't undo the diff to clean it out, there's a grub screw in one end and a hex head the other, but they both seem rediculously tight. If anyone could shed any light on it for me, or if i'm missing something, i'd really appreciate it. Can't afford £30 for a new diff right now, but i may try to send it to Schumacher to see if they'll replace it.

I may have found the problem with my leaky exhaust, is there meant to be a grub screw in the back of the can, where it is supported by the metal rod to the chassis? If so mines gone awol. Also going to pull it apart today and try to clean the diff up properly, its got to the point now where it is really stiff, almost locking the diff. Not good really!

^^^ What he said! Whats the reason its being sold after only one run? I'd be a bit suspicious about anything like that, bearing in mind that your first use should be break in at no more than 1/4 throttle at most, so not the most fun you can have with the car!!

drop a needle and thread down the tube, put the needle into the end of the wire, and pull. Jobsagoodun!