matt_green84

Put it in a box, with all the bits, and send it to me. I'll pay the postage.

I use chrome, the only problem is that some websites have been written for IE, so it pays to keep a couple of browsers. As for Open Source, chrome is the popular face of the chromium project, an open source collaborative project which is forming a big part of ChromeOS.

could you not set up a VPN to access your home PC from school, then browse t'internet through that? Or alternatively, if you really are at a loose end, as if you can help out the techs? They will have you playing with whatever they are doing, and eventually will see that you know what your doing, and then the perks and priviledges will start coming.

That's what I was thinking, cheers mate!

Right, see what the diagnosis from the group is: Schumacher Rascal, standard transmission. There's a strange thing happening with it. When you start the car at idle, the engine fires fine, but when its idling you can hear a strange noise, like a scrapey kind of sound. Imaging zipping up a zip really fast. The rear wheels will twitch and kick aswell. If they have too much traction, instead of kicking a little, they will grip and the engine will cut off. With the engine off, you can rotate the spur gear probably somewhere between 1/8th and 1/4 turn without the rear wheels moving, feels like a spring building up pressure, and will return to the same place. My spider senses say clutch, but wanted some input and other ideas. Ta.

I have an ikea set, which when coupled with a made of cheese petrol station ratchet driver does me fine. Although, I only ever need a torx bit, 7mm, 5mm and a flat screwdriver.

Engine dying at full throttle is definately down to High Speed Needle setting. From where you have it set, turn it an eighth of a turn clockwise. Do a high speed pass. Better or worse? If its better, your going the right way. If its worse, go an eighth the other way. Better? Go another eigth the same way. Better or worse? If its better, keep going, worse, go a 16th of a turn back etc etc. Its hard to get right, and it is a bit of a black art initially, but take your time, make small changes and don't change more than one thing at a time. Awkward starting is down to it being new, and not tuned quite right. If it starts, you'll get there with a bit of tuning. Smoky grass isn't really a problem, my mate's revo does exactly the same, and smoke means that the engine isn't running too lean, which can cause damage. Finally, revs rising may be clutch slip, but its more likely that as the engine warms up, it is running leaner, which is causing higher revs. Which is why you should tune your car for when its warm. Hope this helps, if so click the + down there >>>

The problem with ebay is that its becoming a victim of its own success. With so many commercial sellers, Ebay has to do something to protect buyers, however they don't think about the little guy trying to flog odd bits and pieces. Buyer protection is now so good that I am scared selling things on ebay. I sold a Wii the other day, couldn't charge more than

Just fitted a new Y Lead on my rascal, the efforts where you can charge your receiver pack without removing it, as my old one was a bit melted. Seems now that not a lot works. Now i'm not 100% on this, because the battery is flat, but after an hour on charge plugged it in, flicked the switch and the servos didn't even twitch. What i'm wondering is this: The lead has one female into the switch (which connects to the male on the battery), and two males, one of which goes to the Rx and the other stays free to plug into the charger. Would there be a difference in using either male? IE have i plugged the wrong one in? I did use the lead for charging, but the light on the charger only came on when i flicked the switch on the car, which is what started me wondering.

Cutting is easiest done with a scalpel, craft knife or blade. Score the line you want to cut, and then break the lexan by folding it in. Wheelarches and stuff are especially tricky, but score your line, then use a decent pair of scissors to cut 'spokes' up to the line you scored. Then break off each tab. Gives a nice clean line, and don't need any special tools.

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Some amber LED strobe's for the other half's 1:1 car, not actually sure why I wanted them, just did.

Modelsport take paypal.

Got mine half way done, receiver out and washed out with WD40 to get all the sand out, put everything back inside a condom, just got to get a few cableties to seal it all up. As an aside, and I know this isn't a great subject, will condom lube do any damage?

I store mine in a cupboard, slung under a shelf on two loops of string. Will have to get a pic as its brilliant, takes up NO space, but you can't really do it with anything much bigger than a rascal.

Its all done, on and fitted very pleased. I also took the front end apart, cleaned out the receiver which was full of sand, and waterproofed it with a condom, chucked it all back together. The only problem I have now is that the insulation has melted on the power switch wiring, due to running past the engine, so thats occasionaly shorting and draining the battery very quickly. So that'll be a new one soon! Replaced the rear driveshaft aswell, due to losing the eclip in the universal joint, and then losing the pin, and subsequently all drive. Getting expensive again.

Now lined the windows, with a big 'sunstrip' to cover the main run above the vent hole. Looks good, just needs another racing-cars.com sticker over it. Just need to find a drill now and drill body post holes. What diameter should i be going for? 5mm?

Well i've bitten the bullet, and bought a clear shell to replace my slightly battered one. The current one is the second one I have had, but was the red factory screen printed jobbie, which did the job but I fancied painting one. My other half decided she wanted a go with the truck the other day, and proceeded to do three quarters of a front flip ending in a concrete fence post. Luckily the shell took most of the damage, but broke across the bottom of the windscreen pillar, which seems to be a weak point, the first shell went the same place. So, the other day I ordered a clear shell, and a couple of tins of spray. The plan was, marble cadbury's purple front, a flourescent orange flash up the side, then silver on the back. However, after looking at the paint that arrived, i decided that i'd not try and be too adventurous and stick to a one colour wonder. I was pleasantly surprised with how easy everything has gone, cutting out took about an hour, then probably half an hour to paint. Its not a fantastic job, but good enough for me for now. For me, the important thing was to keep the windscreen in to make it stronger. Pics: Paint has bled slightly under windscreen masking, so i'm going to outline the window tomorrow with some 2mm black tape, used for lining white boards. Should be finished then!

Just to keep everyone up to date, this is the conversation me and a-x-l-e have been having with regard to this problem: Alex Sent 27 September 2009 - 11:48 PM Hi, I saw the thread, was gonna post in a bit. I think its going to be slightly trickier than it seems. The front end you might be able to get away with moving the bottoms of the shocks down onto the wishbone so they are mounted the same as they are on the rear. The rears will be more problematic as the wishbones rest on the chassis which prevents them from dropping any lower. The only quick alternative I can think of is to use a taller tyre but that can also be a bit problematic. If you follow this link and this one you can see a few mods I made to mine. The ride height did increase but in all honesty the Masher 2000's were perhaps a bit excessive for the size of the Rascal and didn't solve much in the long term:lol:. Matt Sent Yesterday, 12:00 AM Hmm, see what you mean. I've seen pics of a rascal somewhere with the chassis chamfered off under the wishbones, which i guess was for the same problem. I've got Proline Dirt Hawgs on at the moment, and they're pretty good and a little taller. may just have to deal with it and find lots of bowling greens. Alex Sent Yesterday, 12:06 AM You'll be popular with the pensioners:lol: There probably is a way around it, I did consider cutting my chassis back a little but am worried it might cause some issues with the wishbones. I guess a 2.2 truck tyre would give you a little more height than the buggy tyres do. It might be worth trying to raise the front and see what happens, if you can get the higher front over an obstacle it might drag the backend with it with a bit of speed, might look a bit odd though. Should of said, check your shocks, I discovered there was hardly any oil in mine, topped them up with either 40W or 50W (cant remember which) and it did make it stand up better. Don't overfill the shock though, there is no bleed hole so if they are full they pop the seals at the top:confused:. Matt Sent Yesterday, 02:09 PM Shocks were redone a while ago, but yeah lots more oil went in than came out. Going to have a look later, either cut chassis, notch the wishbones or possibly raise the wishbone pivots up with a plastic spacer. Not sure yet. Cheers, Matt I'm not sure if raising the pivots will work as the spur gear may foul on the block. I'm assuming you just have the single speed right now which might give you enough clearance, I found when I added the Riot 3 speed I had to cut the pivot block down a little as it kept locking the spur. Posted Image Sent 35 minutes ago Seen that after having a look tonight. I think the dremel may have to come out to play, and take a little off the chassis plate. Cheers, Matt

No bother. Drop me a pm if you change your mind. Cheers mate.

Take

Would you take

For anyone else looking at it, apparently the fronts are fairly easy, but the rears are a problem, as at stock ride height the wishbones sit parallel to the chassis, any higher and they would foul. Going to have a look at it tonight, i'm thinking of either raising the pivots with spacers, or chopping some of the chassis away. Keep everyone posted.