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suicideneil

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Everything posted by suicideneil

  1. Yeah, it seems to be a false-positive issue that's been ongoing forever. Have no fear, there are no nasties on the site; disable the anti-virus for the site and enjoy all the info. Yes, it will stop on it's own, usually with a nice loud beep. Just check the end voltage and current that has been pumped in by cycling the display screen with the arrow keys. End voltage should be 4.20v per cell, current pumped in will vary depending on how much was in there before hand- if the lipos are new, they should have arrived half charged so expect about 2000-3000mAh to have been put in.
  2. http://www.robotwars.00server.com/tutorials.html Section 4.4, enjoy.
  3. Nope, it's all witchcraft, none of this is real. I guess things have changed a bit in the last few years- probably in an effort to reduce the chances of people stripping gears or popping speedos trying to pull wheelies...
  4. HobbyKing lipos have a proven track record of being cheap, that's for sure, but they are also proven to be quite unreliable and prone to failure, hence why people buy loads of them and just ditch the dud packs. I can attest to that myself. I went lipo shopping for some new ones recently and saw the Floureons, but I went with Dynamic lipos instead- very cheap and good specs, and from UK sellers too. I think it is rather wise to look for other options, especially when you consider the issues with shipping and import charges, total lack of a meaningful warranty and stock issues with HK lipos. More options = good.
  5. There is no such thing as brakes when going from reverse to forwards, not on any esc I've ever seen or heard of. It's all in your heads.... All you are seeing in the video is the truck rolling to a near stop in reverse at low speed, then instantly moving forwards, also at a fairly low speed; due to the low speeds and the natural magnetically induced braking of BL motors it appears that the motor is 'applying brakes in reverse', but it really isn't- it's just slowing down and taking off more gently. Try doing the same test with reverse speed set to 50% , and at a higher speed from reverse to forwards without being so gentle on the throttle; you will quickly see there are no brakes when going from reverse to forwards- the truck will either spin its wheels or do a wheelie, or maybe cog violently.
  6. Click my sig for the Tutorials page, scroll down to the Lipo chargers & charging section; enjoy
  7. Yeah, lockout rear hubs only work with lockout rear arms, its a custom RPM setup and not compatible with any other brand. I'd stick with the FLM for general use, swap over to the RPM for jumping or serious bashing maybe...
  8. As title, 5 male and 5 female EC3 connectors, all brand new and unused, surplus to requirements- includes some heatshrink tubing. Ideal for 1/10 models with up to 80 amp escs, easy to solder with a 25-60watt iron and much easier to plug/unplug compared to deans plugs and wont melt like tamiya/molex connectors.
  9. Buy a boat for playing in water with. Anyway, you can seal them up fairly easily, just splodge some silicon sealant or plasti-dip where the wires exit the case. Just bear in mind that you can't effectively seal the radio or esc as there are connectors and seams and gaps that you just can't seal 100%- sticking the receiver in a balloon works to an extent though, if your model has no sealed radio box. A water proof cover for your model would be a worthy investment: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/dustymotorseu?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
  10. suicideneil

    Axial Yeti

    I'm inclined to agree that a lower kv motor and 5-6s is the way to go- this thing is bigger than pretty much any 1/8 truck I've seen...
  11. Yeah, that'd work fine- a few brands sell these lipos with round edges: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NVision-Sport-3700-7-4v-45C-LiPo-RC-Hard-Case-Battery-Pack-Deans-Con-NV01110-/321651737183?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4ae3f0025f http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Plazma-7-4V-4000mAh-20C-LiPo-Round-Case-Stick-Pack-Sprint-2-Sport-/281480147408?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item41898631d0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnigy-Nanotech-4200mah-2s-7-4v-40c-80c-Hardcase-Lipo-Rounded-Stick-Pack-Style-/131187297408?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&var=&hash=item1e8b5f4c80 etc etc So long as the capacity is 4000mah or higher, and rated for at least 20C, should still be fine for 4x4 1/10 scale models.
  12. Bit of a cheap lipo but it should be okay for a 1/10 2wd model. Your motor will be fine with 8.4v- fully charged nimhs tend to be a fair bit higher than their rated voltage too. As for different battery types- doesn't matter, voltage is voltage, all you need to think about is draining the lipos too low and damaging them. If your esc doesn't have a lipo mode ( cut off voltage setting ), then you need to get a cheap lipo alarm that warns you when the voltage is low & when to stop running the model. Look on ebay for 'lipo alarm' and you'll see what you need.
  13. New radio gear means you need to recalibrate the esc to the radio in order to set forwards-neutral-reverse end points- should be instructions in the esc manual ( might need to google for them ).
  14. Set the charger for lipo, balance charge ( or just charge ) mode, 6s, 5amps. Make sure you plug in the 2 main leads and the smaller balance lead to the side of the charger. More info and step by step instructions down in my Tutorials page, link in my sig
  15. Check ebay, or look for some 'local' hobby retailers in Europe- must be some surely on the web. That adaptor will be fine, just don't short out the unused connectors during use. They are nimhs, and probably more expensive than half decent lipos. If you want to stick with nimhs, look on ebay for Vapextech nimhs- very good quality and much cheaper than branded packs.
  16. Click the Tutorials link in my sig, scroll down to lipo chargers and charging, look at the section on multiple lipo chargers, enjoy.
  17. Yes, but consider that a ~900mah charger will take 5-6 hours just to charge a single lipo ( 5000mah for example ). Stop being a peasant, spend
  18. Doesn't seem to have changed much since it was the 'Twinforce'- even has the same dual motor mount for running two brushed motors, ugh.
  19. suicideneil

    Axial Yeti

    Are we taking bets on the UK price? I'm guessing
  20. suicideneil

    Axial Yeti

    Well, don't go much on the shell ( easily fixed ), but it looks kinda fun and you know it'll be well supported, spares and aftermarket upgrades wise. That rear axle though; my TXT-1 just started smiling, knowing that when that day comes that it can't be fixed or replaced any more, there is an off the shelf option to replace hers...
  21. Yeah, seems to be an issue with some AV programs not liking my site ( false-positives due to adverts at the bottom of the pages probably )- try and add it to your white-listed sites if it has that feature, or disable it to view the site.
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