Hyper-d

Had an alien 350a for over a year now, which will finally be going into my blackout over the next few weeks. Have high hopes for this esc but with the problems others have had I bought a max 5 as back up

Hobbywing max5 cree led head torch and some syringes

It acts as a barrier to protect the paintwork.

This to keep my 4 legged friend warm next weekend

Very nice! Love the air intake. That brings the total no. of 5th scale Mt's at bashfest to 2 lol.

4x 4s 5000 30c 2x 4s 8000 30c 2x 6s 5000 30c rx 3600 lipo, xh adapter, 10 gauge wire, lipo bag, turnigy toolset, 1kg green abs, 500g blue abs and 10 pairs of xt 90's all from hobbyking.

What an animal! That wheelie bar is goona come in handy.

I put a 668 on my blackout when it was running stock motor and found it much more reliable. picked it up from irc for £30 iirc

ddm fast pipe and rpm front bumper from freeprawn. alloy rear bumper from rc modelz.

I just reset my obr 34 full mod. I done 1 3/8 low, 1 5/8 high .started and idled fine.

Yeah I've tried a hpi one and they don't last much longer. Haha yeah a cage would sort my problems but would rather stick with the buggy look.

Its not leaking, the gasket keeps melting lol. I'd love a side pipe like a bzm but they just look too exposed.

Getting sick of replacing the gasket on my km Thor pipe and fancy a change. just wondered what people would suggest other than a dom.

Awesome collection!

As its only a 2 bolt I'd be checking the head gasket. Blackouts are well known for it.

yes theyre right. where abouts are you? maybe there's someone local to you on here that can help

As above reset needles to factory and try again. also if the motor came complete with clutch, it may have a different clutch spring to your old set up so may require more (or less) revs for it to 'move'

I've had plenty of tinker time on it over the last few days and managed to print my first biggish item(5th scale beadlock) in abs with no warping i still have a little extruder clicking in places but far better than what it was . had an incident where I left it unattended, wing nuts vibrated loose, as the print warped it catched the hot end...... Came back to the glass on the floor and a ball of abs on the bed lol needless to say I have since thread locked the wing nuts

Flipped the bed and the glass still too high in the middle As I said anything bigger than a cube warps.... And that's with a brim lol

Thinking of buying this http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/201166286056 purely for the ally plate

Yes have the glass plate and have it all up to temp before levelling. I've been using squares. 5 lines thick, as big as the bed , with smaller squares leading to a 30x30 square in the middle.... Which never prints as the beds so close at that point that the extruder clicks and nothing can get out the nozzle lol

Well after several hours off attempted bed levelling I've come to the conclusion that my bed is warped lol. If I level the corners the middle is too close and if I level the middle the corners are too far. Would explain a lot really as I've had nothing but warping problems on any thing bigger than a 20mm cube.

Tbh I'm not sure if the rear pipe I'm on about is on that link but I know you can fit one to the mt....read a thread somewhere but can't bloody find it lol

There's also jet pro, but again they're in the U.S.,I think the one mounted behind the rear shock tower requires a extension bracket for the rear bumper. http://www.jetpro.com/rc-cars/redcat/