Shudson

I am in Keighley. What is your problem?

In the past they have met up in the car park at the rear of Showcase Cinema, rear of Spen Baths by, but not on Batley Buggy Club track and Templenewsam. Don't know if they still do, as I haven't been out much with my cars over the last year due to mobility problems. Think it is time to get rid of them.

Assuming that your receiver battery is good and your linkage isn't binding, there isn't really anything you can do wrong. Just check voltage to receiver. If they are both OK, then it is probably a faulty servo.

That is a "turbo" plug and not interchangeable with a "normal" one.

Just keep an eye on temperature - it will run hot if nitro content too high. Not knowing anything about that engine, but based purely on appearance of head, personally, I might be tempted to try 10% for a start and work up or down from there.

Better to err on the lower nitro side, if you don't know what an engine is designed for. Too low a nitro content will not kill an engine, but too high a content than it was designed for can do.

Yes, it is a charging socket. Fairly easy to convert to 2.4Ghz as well - I have 10 of them.

Could the Wheelspin spur be an improved replacement?

I was heavily into boats from late fifties to mid seventies (initially exclusively diesel and later "glow" (nitro). My "standard" method of engine mounting was a ply shelf across the hull, with a generous cut-out to accommodate different size crankcases, secured with fibreglass resin.The engine was then mounted on metal plates screwed to the ply. This made engine removal easy and a simple job to fit a different engine. At that time, if you did not have access to industrial sources, resin/fibreglass car body kits were relatively new, as were two part epoxies - the only brand generally available was Araldite. The fibreglass resin was often mixed with various "fillers" to make a paste as well as the commercial powders, talc was also used. It may well be some form of this that you have. I have known a bit of paint to be added to match the hull. The "glue" of choice for building wooden hulls at the time was Cascamite - a powder mixed with water. Prior to that it had been Croid Aero Glue, an animal based substance that was applied hot. Neither of these would be particularly suitable for metal. Frequently, the whole of the inside of the hull would be "painted" with fibreglass resin, sometimes with colour added, for re-inforcement and sealing. I competed extensively throughout that period at local regattas and regional and national championships, so came across all sorts of variations in construction and I cannot think of anything that would have incorporated asbestos. Having said that, we were not burdened by that growth industry "Health & Safety" in those days, and wouldn't have cared anyway!

If they are no bigger than the "standard" 5m 5050 LED strips, a 2amp supply, as suggested by RoverMan should be more than adequate, but 6 amp supplies are not much dearer and gives you extra capacity if you decide to add more. Look at CCTV power supplies as well as those for LED strips.

Daughter of a teacher might explain it!

That is the problem I have with fuel. Whilst there is a local model shop, he seems to only stock mainly 25% because he reckons there is no demand for anything else and I too have to travel about 20 miles for a proper source). Try your 25% but don't "wring it's neck" and keep it slightly rich. At least you will find out whether your problem is the plug. If that is the case, you can get a couple for stock (I always keep about a dozen of each type in stock, but I do have a few cars to go at, although most of them tend to get given away to others who blow a plug but don't keep spares) You can then get a different fuel when convenient and use up your 25% in the meantime.

Mainly Model Technics Duraglow 16%, Quick Fire 10%, Big Bang 20% and, currently, Zzip 20% (all I could get hold of at the time). Which particular one depends on which I have in at the time and which other cars I am taking out at the same time. Might be a quarter turn on HSN difference between different fuels, but I don't find that a problem. A lot of people on here criticise Model Technics, but I must have been using it for 50 years or so (used to buy ingredients from them when I mixed my own for competiton (boats) and have just stuck with it. As a matter of interest, I still run some 50 year old marine engines occasionally, so they haven't come to much harm on it! Plug N4 (N5 if hot weather) - Brand - whatever I can get cheapest in bulk at the time. Main thing is not to let it run too hot (lean); not worth wrecking your engine for a few extra RPM.

Most manufacturers do an "N4" plug (I suspect they are probably made in the same factory and merely branded differently). They do vary slightly, but not a lot. Lot of people swear by OS No 8, but I have to say that I haven't been impressed. In very many cases of people having poor running, changing from OS 8 has solved it. Whilst they frequently last longer, 2 months can be a long time for a plug; just one run too hot can cause deterioration. Everyone seems to advocate 25% nitro but out of over 40 nitro cars and 8 nitro boats, there are only 2 that I run on 25%. The rest are run on 10 - 20%. Out of curiosity, I have tried 25% in some of these with no improvement in running. The MacStar 28 has a reputation for unstable running and not holding a tune. I have one which is run on 16 - 20% nitro and I have no problems whatsoever.

How old is your plug? They don't last forever, particularly if engine has been running hot, and deteriorate, even though they might still "glow".

Yes, and a leak there could produce your symptoms. Think you may have answered your own question.

Certainly feel it!! But 30 years out! I do have cars that haven't run for 10 years that usually start and run. Couple of months ago I started a Rossi .60 in one of my boats - hadn't been run since 1974 when I retired from competition. Haven't plucked up courage yet to try any of my OPS .60s. Anyway, don't have any 40% nitro, which is what they were set up for!

So Modelsport appear to have (innocently) mis-described an item. They have offered you a full refund (the most you would get anywhere) - you are not out of pocket, so should be happy. If you are not happy, then simply don't patronise Modelsport again - I am sure that will make them VERY happy!

Fairly simple - whatever (max) current the ESC is going to be drawing! Failing that, it's max rated output. Considerations are same as those in deciding what voltage and max current (Ah x C) battery you need. ESC doesn't know (and doesn't care) whether it is supplied by a battery or (properly stabilised) mains unit. Unfortunately, DAZP's calculations fall down, because he is working on the average current over the run - the peak may be significantly higher and could blow your power supply. Basically, you need to emulate the voltage and current it is going to use in practice. Simplest way is use a battery!

Little switch on underside of transmitter, below steering stick. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1064392/Carson-Reflex-Stick-Pro-3.html?page=21#manual

Looks as though that Carson does have dual rate (it is the knob on the top right corner), although not all descriptions seem to mention it. Under £40 including a servo: that is going to be the most economic way of getting basic functions.

Like you, I can't get on with wheel type radios, having used sticks since the 60s. I have about 40 2.4ghz stick sets of various makes, primarily converted from 40mhz sets. I do, however, have a number of Core/Pulse/Tamco 3 channel sets, one of which I have in a brushless Carnage. These sets have lots of adjustments, including steering dual rate, which I regard as essential. Unfortunately, these sets do not seem to be available any more, unless anyone still has stock. Personally, I would not go for any of the two channel stick sets I've come across, as these are, to my mind rather basic. I would be tempted to look for a decent 40mhz transmitter to convert to FrSky 2.4ghz - Hitec, Futaba and JR can be converted with simple plug in RF modules; most other makes require a little more work, including soldering 4 wires.

Found these. Claim to be in UK, but I suspect they may not be. You can save a few quid if you are prepared to wait 2 or 3 weeks to come from China. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flysky-FS-GT2E-AFHDS-2A-2-4ghz-2CH-Radio-System-Transmitter-for-RC-Car-Z4Y9/112972718876?epid=18018844253&hash=item1a4db2e31c:g:DnIAAOSw7eda59S7 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Flysky-2-4G-Radio-Model-RC-Transmitter-Receiver-UK-Stock-U3Z1/253597916739?epid=7018846743&hash=item3b0b9d1e43:g:pRIAAOSwqMRa51sq

Either of the options you have shown would suffice but, if you are looking for minimum expenditure, it could be argued that there is an element of overkill with both. The 27Mhz. set includes receiver and servos that you (presumably) don't need, but spare servos are always handy and would work with 27mhz or 2.4ghz if you eventually upgraded. Yes, it would just be a matter of swapping the receiver crystal. As far as the 2.4ghz set is concerned, the one you have mentioned would be OK, and extra settings might be useful eventually, but you could get a cheaper one (maybe £20 or so) with fewer "bells & whistles".

The crystals just plug in to sockets. They need to be the same "colour" and the transmitter is marked TX and receiver RX. Don't suppose you are anywhere local to West Yorkshire? If you were able to pick them up, I could let you have what you need.