coldcuppatea

Nope, no warming but I did use a new plug and also gave the starter 30 or so pulls with the plug out first before priming it. Should probably do that immediately after finishing rather than before taking it out now I think about it.

Much better run with it tonight. Only flipped it once when it was sliding sideways and caught a raised section in the road. This is with the chassis practically on the floor. Must say I'm impressed with the range of adjustability in the car. Now I've stopped it flipping over, it's easy to get it to power slide, however it still doesn't turn very quickly when not under power. I'm wondering if maybe I have the range of steering limited. Will have a look at it later. Fired no problem tonight once I had replaced a dead glo plug. Definitely loosened up now. Re: the upgrade parts, I'm very keen on those shocks & springs. Having seen how fragile the upper arms are, I'd be very keen to get some of those in metal. I've got my eye on eBay to see if I can find some adjustable ones that I could use.

I think it's the same shell with different stickers. I've already trimmed the black strip off the bottom of the bumper. I've found a proper RC dirt track not too far from me so will try and go up there very soon. I might be rolling it because I'm a crap driver with a quick car in a small space

I've had anoth A few frustrating days as my glued upper arm kept breaking. Got to work with some old Grasshopper 2 suspension parts and a dremel...problem temporarily resolved! The engine has loosened up a bit and is a bit easier to get started now. The big difference over my TG10 is that the idle is rock solid and it doesn't creep at tick-over. Had my first proper drive around with it last night. However, on tarmac with the gravel wheels/tyres it's not all that brilliant tbh. It's got lots of body roll, lots of understeer and a tendency to roll over. Until the nights get longer, I can't really use it on any off road places that are local to me. Quite tempted to look at getting the tarmac wheels and tyres. Anyone know if the Ken Block version has different suspension set up? I've got mine as low as it will go on the standard suspension, but it's clearly set up for much bumpier terrain. Those Proline dampers look tempting, but are quite expensive. You can see my attempt to remove some the body roll in the pic above. I've used some spring clamps from a TA01 to stiffen them up, but it's not really done much for it tbh. Bobby288 - we still need to see a pic of your car with the springs/dampers and hop-up parts

Thanks, have found them. Going to see if they can do me a similar deal. I can then share body & wheels between nitro & electric which is money saving & wife friendly

Answered my own question re: nitro> electric: http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/635956-hpi-wr8-3-0-a-3.html Looks to be a pain / expensive. Just took the car out in Tarmac in light snow. Got going okay but then cut out after a couple of mins and wouldn't restart. Must not like the weather!

I think I'd miss the noise too much, although there are times I wish I could just turn on and go. I wonder how much expense / effort there would be in getting the bits to convert the nitro car to electric so I could swap between the two!

A bit hit and miss so far. Any over priming seems to lock it almost solid. I'm also finding it difficult to pin the car down sufficiently to keep it in place should the engine not want to turn on pull start. Managed to totally skin my knuckles. I've put a couple more tankfuls through this evening but then glued upper arm came apart. This is all a bit frustrating! Seems incredibly quick when I do get it going, and that low down response that I was worried about is just great.

Will take the advice...! Running a couple more tanks full through on the workbench and with do a few more circles, hopefully this time without crashing it... Bobby288....I was at Modelsport earlier and did consider the alloy parts, they they're extremely expensive. I was able to repair two of the parts for

Where did you get these from?

Yes, in the UK. Modelsport have the most badly broken part in so I'm going to take a trip up there this afternoon. No one seems to have the upper arms in stock, so will just have to hope my repair holds up for a while. Failing that I'll have to see if I can find adjustable arms from som other car to improvise with.

Thank **** for superglue. At least it should be usable while I get replacement parts. Where is best to source these from? Is there much in the way of up rated parts available yet? My own fault for being clumsy, but quite surprised how much damage it did. I've hit curbs with my Tamiya's plenty of times and never had a breakage.

It was going so well. Did the half throttle circles for two tanks. Started tuning, got confused with the trigger style controller (never used one before) and accelerated into a curb. Smashed 3 pieces of suspension to pieces. AAAARGH!

Two tanks through it sat on a workbench, ready to go and drive in circles for another two tanks now I've seen a lot of comments on other forums about how it's not a real 1/8th scale car, but it certainly dwarfs my 1/10th TG10: Camera Roll-294 by rhysturner, on Flickr Camera Roll-290 by rhysturner, on Flickr Seal of approval granted: Camera Roll-298 by rhysturner, on Flickr

Yup, just picked up a nitro model :-D

Ordered! Can't wait!

Well, I think that video you've linked to convinces me of its off road capabilities. It was the RC Universe review of the ken block version that got me thinking. I did have a brief look at the Kyosho DRX but there is just something about the HPI that is making me feel like having a bad wallet accident tomorrow. I've found a place doing them for

I've just turned up this thread on Google. I'm in a similar position having just heard about the WR8 and being very very tempted to go and get one tomorrow. I'm just mulling over whether to go nitro or electric. I have a Tamiya TG10 1999 Impreza which is just no good off road and can be a total pain to start some days, yet others fires first time. The snarl of an internal combustion engine is always going to sound better than an electric motor, but some days I just wish nitro was just a bit less fiddly. How responsive is the WR8 3.0 engine at lower revs? The old FS12LT in the TG10 is really sluggish to get going which makes powering out of tight turns pretty miserable. It's the only nitro car I've had though so don't know if that's usual or just because its old and worn out. I'm looking for some reassurance that the WR8 has sufficient suspension travel and clearance to manage on rougher ground, that the seemingly lesser covered Nitro model is as good as the Flux version and that it's going be worth spending over