teshi

Man need to come jam with you lot again. Still using the place I came up to? Soul is pretty much drift central atm with a good vibe and some crazy sessions. Radshape as you know , as Will said, the Teesliders but then there is also the D1RC in Essex which have open days every so often usually a Sunday. If im not at Soul, ill go to my (semi) local track in High Wycombe, indoor carpet and same again, good vibe with a constantly evolving track setup. You also have McTracks in Ireland which we still need to visit but other than that, very little in terms of tracks "worth@ going out of your way for. Im looking at hitting more the European tracks this year, first stop Amsterdam

Speak to a few offices in the area, see if they have any old carpet they are throwing away. Those carpet tiles are actually not bad to run on. Wooden flooring aint bad but if you get the owners of the hall on a bad day, they could just kick you out because of a mark that wasnt you. If its a laminated wooden floor, see no issues as long as its clean and so are the chassis that will run on it.

Personally dont do anything just yet other than practice. Not in a rude way but a lot of people give up because they have no idea what they are doing and get bored of just hitting up carparks. If you have a mate who wants to drift, get em doing it. Start setting up some tracks like a figure of 8 and also an L shape. Learn to understand how the car behaves and how you can do what you need it to do. Then set yourself challenges especially ones like do 3 laps with the least amount of steering corrections (and actually count as you do it). The reason I say this is you will slowly realise where the limits are, you or the car. Ignore what people say in terms of you NEED to go brushless or change the motor etc, I would say those things should come later once you have got yourself going. Once you know you limits, you can then move on. If you just start throwing money at it instantly because other people said this is better than that, it will turn into a turd. Ill be up you neck of the woods in the next few weeks for weddings and what not but ill be sure to pack my RC drift so ill drop you a PM.

Not actually seen any kits for countersteer for that actually. Had a look a while back when i was researching so I kind of didnt bother. You could make your own but its going to be a lot of work to get the ratios correct. Not what I could classify as fun in any sense of the hobby. The difficulty overall with the "50/50" setup is that in the UK, once you start hitting tracks, its not really a common thing. Most of the tracks are designed for "CS" drivers which is not a bad thing and at the same time, not great. Radshape is actually very unique since a lot of people from different backgrounds will go down and give it a try. Some are ignorant and just buzz around the track but others learn and start looking into things so kudos So going down and looking at going into a cs setup is a good thing since it will open many cooler doors The biggest and sh!test discussion is the whole notion about speed and drifting. Personally when I look at a lot of videos even from the UK, EVERYONE drifts too fast. If you look at the whole scale of it, it needs to be slower BUT thats quite hard unless you are quite seasoned and run with a regular group often. The 50/50 cars tend to be faster overall since there is little speed penalties for over angles or silly entry lines so can see why it can be annoying being held back. Use it as a training aid rather than go for an overtake. Learning to stick behind others who drift slower will actually help you do a few things. 1. Help train your mind and finger to be more progressive with the throttle rather than mash it (vital when learning the more advanced techniques). THIS will help you start to drift slower 2. Allow you to start recognising what kind of lines people take which will help lead you into finding safe places to overtake if you see they struggle etc 3, Make things more interesting leading or chasing. Drifting is never a race and think sometimes people forget. Enough babbling, your situation. Trying to make a cs kit could work but I would not bother. If you are serious about it, in the future look at a dedicated chassis that has a few components available off the bat. To help, you could get yourself a front one way diff. I know the TC3 has one available so thats a good start. Basically what this will do is allow the front wheels to run as the brakes are applied. Basically it will turn your brakes into a handbrake so as the rear wheels lock, the fronts keep rolling so in that sense allowing you to pivot better on your front. Loads of videos of it in action on YouTube and pretty sure a lot of the drifters at Radshape will have one installed. http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/discontinued_items/3938.pdf Secondly, experiment with shocks and how the chassis itself responds. Work on one thing at a time so you can see and feel the difference. It is a good idea to have a good variety of springs so you can try new things. The objective should be to have both front and rear responsive enough so react to weight change. As you apply the brake (going on the assumption you have a one way installed), the weight shifts forward putting more load on the front increasing the grip providing the springs are soft/hard enough to cope. If your springs are too hard then its going to cause more understeer. Same concept with how the chassis sits, the rear should squat a little lower than the front allowing weight transfer to be thrown a little more easier. Try not to add more weight to do this but use what you already have on the chassis. Same with shock oils, not expensive in general so worth having a few different weights. I tend to run very thin oils, 10-15wts which suits my driving style. If you find you have too much grip then try possibly harder springs or if you have the option, their position on how they sit eg angled or vertical. Theres so much more tuning to do before a chassis ever drifts "right" lol. Tyres also make a big difference, speak to the lads there and see what they use. I know a few people who run T Drifts there but they do have a lot of grip so could be a cause of running too fast. I like using the MST GA26 Harder compounds for a surface like they have, it worked nice for me when I had a go. Sorry to turn a simple topic into a minefield but its worth it. Nearly a year since I started with zero info online to finding some awesome people to drift with and for support, you getting into it at the right time. Don't give up though since the more people start on it this year, hopefully more people I can run into when I make another trip there.

Well the new version of the RTR is out shortly with a brushless option from what ive been reading so I would go down that route. Cheapest so if you find its not for you, its not a massive investment.

Price drop down to

Holy crap you got it quick!

Nice stuff, get some practice in asap before the summer. Plenty of events will be popping up!

Up for sale is me 4 month old Keyence 9.5T sensored brushless motor. Comes with a secondary darker jacket also which is easy to change. Im looking to replace it with a specific 10.5T motor for competing this year so this needs to go. Will come unsoldered so only will receive motor and spare motor jacket. Some extra specs on it KV (rpm/V) 3,840 Power (W)*2 260 Efficiency (%)*2 93 Looking for

Haha Grats. Yeah just be careful taking them in and out.y front hazards have come loose so will have to solder them again. Bit of a pain but my fair for not securing properly. Think I'm getting the 20 led set next. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Light kits were out of stock again if I remember correctly. The 34 looks nice as hell. Good colour choice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Timing once again is to your liking. I messed around with mine but liked mine a little high. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm running a 9.5T brushless and it is a little powerful but trains you better to be careful so I say go for it. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome to the club. I would recommend learning it as soon as possible. Im having troubles since ive left it so late so having to dial out so many bad habits and go back to basics on my setup

A lot of us have discussed it and some of the knocks you take especially with the increase in new members who are unable to slow their drifting down causes some big crashes so things that are glued to the paint no matter how well done can tend to rip it off. Some people still go down the route of it all but honestly I prefer the route of body posts. Sure its a bit crappy to look at but once you shave the posts down or use the post extenders, its not too bad. I need to get another two for my posts before I cut them. HPI ones are great but shame they dont sell em as spares but will need to buy a whole body post set. No biggie.

I wouldn't write off the D3 altogether. It's just if you look at the upgrade routes for em like moving to carbon decks etc they are there but the quality as before is not up to standard. Before there are any other comments on this front, MST are releasing parts on a regular basis so your tuning options are varied in how advanced you want to go. Yokomo, Sakura etc don't. They rarely bring out new upgrade parts or rely on third parties. What ever you go for, you got help here anyways. I'll let then Yoko lads jump in with what you will need. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DIB 275 only has 4-5 shells for it so I. That respect you are going to be quite limited. I would try and get down to a track at some point and have a look at what people use. Driving them won't do much world of good since everyone's sets em up differently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You be surprised. A lot of the development for the MST shaft driven is all come from drivers over in Japan. It's been based on the GRK chassis and new parts being developed all the time and looking at the the current trend, shanties are becoming more popular. I do agree on some upgrades being a bit OTT like the HT system but the more I've looked into it, it has improvements but only once you have mastered certain techniques. Other upgrades are as you say, total balls. Saying that, if you do go Yokomo, RadShape and Soul RC are going to be stocking parts but still could cost you the same as if you imported. I would keep an eye on the pages on Facebook for an affordable chassis and just get on it soon as :-)

Only Yokomo I would consider to buy is the 275. Shame the drive is so boring out the box and there is so much play in the steering. Still the settings can be tweaked now I know what I'm doing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well MST are only down the road from Schumacher and they have a good working relationship. If you put one of their kits next to a MST, both have the same quality in parts and materials so you won't go wrong especially with carbon and alloy parts. If you go to my build thread for my FS, it will have a good idea of what the quality is like and the same with my XXX build. With the XXX, there is a Pro version which is slightly cheaper but get a few more plastic parts. That would still be a very viable option. I would say if you have a Tamiya chassis laying around, give it a go but trying to push it in the same league as something built for it will change your experience. Ben (hawk) went down that route with Tamiya as did I with HPI. The only other alternative is a Yokomo DIB or a DPM but I'm not too sure if I would call that a nice chassis to jump straight into because if you get the entry level version, it's all plastic and could do with the upgrade kit. The drive from them are just as good as MST once you set them up. Very tough choice but mine will sound a little biased based on my purchase route :-p What ever you go for, it won't take you long before you find the right places to order stuff from. :-)

Personally if you are going to take it seriously, get stuck in with a decent spec'ed chassis. There are plenty of nicely upgraded MST MS-01D's going up for sale. Lot are moving over to the MST XXX-D shaft driven so the MS-01's tend to go pretty cheap. Drop me a PM and can suggest some people who have em for sale. My worry is that based on your location, there are limited tracks where you can learn your chassis properly based on the skill level of most of the drivers I know. Not saying everyone in your area is useless but I cant think of anyone I know who are around there to teach you good technique for example so you might have to do what we do and take a drive down to Soul RC in Northampton. Whatever chassis you go for, the key things I would say you need to factor - good amount of steering lock - good quality shocks and springs - the correct tyres (not budget cheapo t-drifts) - a good cs to start with (i would say around 1.6 is a good place to start) MST's run underdriven front wheels and Yokomos run overdriven rears. I think its better to run an underdriven front so nothing takes any more strain that needs be but the options are endless. Iv'e never really got on well with the Sakura purely for the fact that it comes with a high cs out of the box and just felt too cheap.

Nice build but those tyres dont look like what you will enjoy for long. Bodyshell, the JZX100 II you linked is what would be worth going for. Its better sized and will look good. For a good set of wheels, Soul RC/Max Speed Technology is where you want to have a look. Leave the wheels for last so you can get a better idea of what offsets would be best. For tyres, speak to James/Mitto at Soul RC since they will be able to cater to what and where you drift.

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Only thing I would upgrade is change the dogbones to CVD's but that being said, im not sure what upgrade options are available for that. The play is worth having, well a little at least. You can add in some rubber o rings into the cups to help reduce but you will want some play otherwise as your suspension and lock is being used, it pushes the bones deeper inside the cup so if you dont have any play, can snap em.

Photography doesnt need to be good as long as you enjoy what you have in front of ya. Only thing that scares me on the MS is how close some of the electronics sit to the belts.